Question about GE 24 in. Profile PDW9880JSS Built-in Dishwasher
The congealing is caused by mixing 2 different detergent formulas in the tank. GE recommend cascade complete but then cascade changed the formula and didn't bother telling anyone. I pointed this out to the GE repairman and GE picked up the repair bill for an out of warranty dishwasher. I am told that it is best to use cascade complete phosphate free but I can't find anything to confirm this. I think GE won't commit to a single detergent since getting burned by cascade. The bottom line is to NOT change detergents without purging the dispenser bottle completely.
Posted on Dec 16, 2015
You can use the manual dispenser but I can\'t help but think that the goo and gunk in the smart one will leak out here and there and cause problems with getting dishes as clean as they should. Besides, it just looks gross. Just purging it as the GE link above instructs will not work for this problem though. This problem is caused by using enzyme detergent in the Smart Dispenser and bleach based detergent in manual dispenser (or visa-versa). Like most, I just stopped using the Smart Dispenser and just use the manual dispenser with the packets (work better than the powder). Be sure to use the Cascade Complete Pacs (emphasis on the "Complete") or the Cascade Platinum Pacs (work a bit better). If you have a lot of the sludge and it is thick then start out with method 1 but if not so bad, you can jump to method 2. If really bad or method 1 & 2 don\'t work then do "Door Removal Method".
Method 1: First get as much out as you can with a spoon. Then pour hot water in and swish it around by opening and closing the door. Then try to work some more loose by getting a wire/hanger and sweeping it around in there as well. Then vacuum out the mess with your wet/dry vac. Repeat this about 3 or 4 times and you should be able to work it all loose and get it all out. Once it seems to all be out (new water poured in stays clear), run the purge feature (Method 2) a couple times and the low detergent light came on and everything was back to normal.
Method 2: The purge routine operates the bulk dispenser pump continuously to drain the bulk dispenser tank when an incorrect liquid was poured in the tank. The process consists of setting up the dishwasher to run the purge mode, running the purge mode and then cleaning up the purged detergent. Can do this multiple times. Follow these steps carefully to have a successful purge run.
For Top Control Models:
1. Make sure Pre-wash, Added Heat and Heated Dry LEDs are off.
2. Press Heated Dry and Down Arrow buttons together for 3 seconds. All LEDs will illuminate.
3. Press Added Heat and Up Arrow buttons together for 3 seconds. The Anti-bacteria LED will illuminate.
4. Press Start button one time.
5. Select Normal and make sure Pre-wash, Added Heat and Heated Dry LEDs are off.
6. Press Start button one more time and dishwasher will run a complete cycle without the main motor running. Cycle is complete when the Clean light illuminates. This should take approximately 60 minutes.
7. Open door and wipe up excess detergent from the door and tub.
8. Flush remaining detergent off by pouring water on the door and tub where there is detergent residue.
9. Remove Smart Dispenser cap and fill tank with water and then replace cap.
10. Repeat Steps 1 through 9 one time.
11. Then, repeat Steps 1 through 6. When the Clean LED illuminates, the system is purged and ready to be refilled with the correct detergent.
Front Mount Controls (same as above except for the changes in the two below steps):
2. Press Heated Dry and Cookware together for 3 seconds. All LEDs illuminate.
3. Press Added Heat and Cookware together for 3 seconds. The Anti-bacterial LED illuminates.
Door Removal Method:
1. Remove power to the dishwasher (via circuit breaker or pull plug under sink).
2. Take all dishes and bottom rack out of the dishwasher.
3. Close dishwasher door.
4. Remove bottom 2 bolts with a ratchet.
5. Open dishwasher door.
6. Put a small box that is big enough to hold the panel while the door is opened.
7. Remove screws holding inner door to outside panel. Don\'t remove the screws heading into side of door itself. Also, there are 2 screws near the latch that you don\'t want to take out...just loosen them and you\'ll see they don\'t behave like the other screws.
8. The panel will separate from the door, BUT there are 2 ribbon cables connecting them. Have someone hold onto the door...so it won\'t pull up hard on the ribbon cables.
9. GENTLY pull back and forth (side to side) on the white ribbon cable on the door. It will come off with a connector.
10. Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently press the tab in on the blue connector and gently pull the blue ribbon cable straight out.
11. Remove panel completely and put aside.
12. Gently close dishwasher door. It will want to fly up since it doesn\'t weigh as much.
13. Look for a red/green cable from the detergent container (detergent level sensor) and disconnect it.
14. Open dishwasher door and take off detergent cap.
15. Have someone hold onto the detergent container from the other side and un-twist the detergent locking ring (the item you normally screw the cap into). You can use your hands or put a cloth over it and gently remove with pliers. The detergent container will now be free, but connected to a rubber tube that leads to the detergent dispenser pump. It will easily disconnect by pulling the container away from the tube/pump.
16. Shake the living hell out of the detergent container over a trash can. Mine had tons of white and blue gel in it. Once you remove most of the gunk, bring it under the faucet in the sink and rinse with warm/hot water. Shake, rinse, empty, shake, rinse, empty. The hole where the detergent comes out should be 100% cleaned out. Use the handle of a small paintbrush (or something) to push the hardened gunk out of the hole. Be sure the container is totally cleaned. Take your time on this.
17. Put everything back in reverse order. The only thing I did differently is putting the door panel back on the door: Close door, reattach container & cable, bring over panel and re-attach ribbon cables, hang panel on the top two white plastic blocks that you loosened the 2 screws by the latch with earlier. Then screw on the bottom screws (do not tighten until all screws are put back in place). Put all screws back & don\'t over tighten.
19. Do Method 2 (purge).
Posted on Apr 22, 2014
No problem using the manual dispenser without doing anything about the auto dispenser. That's the solution I used.
Posted on Apr 20, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Just use the manual dispense. The smart dispenser is horrible. You will never get it empty AND you will have congealed soap in the dispenser for ever.
Posted on Oct 22, 2008
Part of the solution is on the GE website: http://www.geappliances.com/search/fast/infobase/10010832.htm
But first you must remove or mash the gelled detergent into very small pieces so it can pass through the pump and outlet. You must clean out most of the gelled detergent down in the door going towards the pump and the outlet at the base of the door. You can disassemble the door, or I used a length of 3/8" soft plastic tubing pushed down into the detergent cavity repeatedly to break up and pull the chunks up to the fill door where I could remove or mash them. You may also need to this between the first run of the procedure and the second. You may need to do the purge filling the dispenser with water (I used hot - 120F) more than the once in the procedure.
Posted on Jan 17, 2011
SOURCE: It appears that the Smart
You'll need to check for the water inlet hose, the water inlet valve and the float switch assembly. When the water fills your dishwasher, a float rises along with it. As the float reaches a certain threshold level, it shuts off the flow of water, thereby preventing a leak. Sometimes the float can get stuck in the wrong position in your dishwasher, and it can prevent your dishwasher from filling. Sometimes it can happen due to float valve and on other occasions due to float switch. Inspect the water hose coming to the dishwasher for any blockages. If the hose is not clogged then check the water inlet valve for any clogs, if the water will not even fill for few seconds then certainly the water inlet valve is bad and should be replaced. You can also use a multimeter to check continuity on inlet valve. If you don't get any value on the multimeter then you'll need to replace the water inlet valve assembly. However, if the valve is fine then the float switch assembly should be replaced. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.
Posted on Sep 12, 2011
SOURCE: I have a GE profile
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Posted on Oct 27, 2011
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