Question about Estate Dryers

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I think wiring problems turned my Estate dryer into a brick.

So when I moved into my new apartment, I had to replace the 3-wire plug with a 4-wire one. When I went to Home Depot and bought one, the guy told me "exactly how to wire it up". Normally I wouldn't have have listened, but he sounded like he knew exactly what he was talking about.

Anyway, there was a greenish ground screw that had a wire (I think it was white) under it going back into the dryer. He used the word "piggyback" so I thought he meant to leave it there. Well, I connected therest of the pins properly, but I grounded that white wire with the green one from the new cord.

Towards the end of the first load, I opened the door to check how dry everything was. The dryer was room temperature and nothing was quite dry. So I closed the door and pushed the start button, and nothing happened. Since then (almost a month ago) it's been completely hosed. In reading through the manual which I dug up that day, I found that apparently, I should have run that white wire to the center pin of the 3, which is also white.

I've tested the start button, and the heat-sensitive fuse and both are good still. The only thing I can think that it might be is the motor, but I thought I'd ask first.

Thanks in advance.

- Collin

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  • Collin Klopfenstein Jun 29, 2009

    Thanks for your reply. I went ahead and tested the thermal cutoff, and thermal fuse, both of which are fine. I also tested the push to start button and the control knob, both of which are fine.

    Where I'm baffled is this:

    My multimeter's pins aren't long enough to get down in the 240V outlet. So I plugged my dryer in and tested the ends of the cord.

    Here's what I got:

    ( R = Red, B = Black, W = White, G = Green )

    R-W: 120V
    R-G: 120V
    B-W: 0.5V
    B-G: 0.5V
    R-B: 1.5V

    Obviously, something's wrong here. As you said, it should be 120 across either R or B to either W or G, and 240 across R and B. I'm going to mave my apartment's maintenance crew come take a look at the outlet tomorrow.

    Something else I noticed: I was testing the push-button's pins for voltage just out of curiosity, and it read 1.5V with the door shut. But when I pushed the start button, the voltage dropped to 0.

    If you need any more readings, I'd be glad to take them.

    Thanks for all your help thus far.

    - Collin

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The dryer has a jumper wire that goes from the center terminal to the case of the dryer, probably a white wire like you are talking about. When you put a 4 prong cord on, the piggy back he should have been talking about would be to take that white wire and put it back to the center pin and piggyback it with the white from the cord. Then the green wire from the cord should go to the green screw grounding the case. The idea is to seperate the grounded case from the neutral wire. With a 3 prong cord the ground and the neutral wire are the same and the neutral is tied to the case. I think it should have ran and heated for you the way it was hooked up. As long as you had the red and black on the outside terminals and the white or green in the center, it should have ran and heated. You probably have a blown fuse or bad breaker. Best thing is to check with a voltmeter and you should have 220 volts across the two outside terminals and also make sure you have 120 volts from each outside terminal to the center. You can chase your tail all day though without a meter to measure the voltage.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

  • maytagman15 Jun 29, 2009

    It looks like you have a wiring problem in the building and you are only getting 120v to the dryer. Most lilley a blown fuse.

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