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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Disconnect the small spade terminal wires from the coil itself and test for spark. If you do not have spark replace coil. If you do have spark check those small wires for insulation damage and grounding. If wires are OK check kill switch.
NOTE: DO NOT START MACHINE with small wires unplugged! Only test for spark.
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
Over the past 8 years, the FS55 has had at least 5 different carburetors, and they have at least 3 different systems with different adjustments. Many of them do not have much of an adjustment and will not cure running problems. If you are experiencing poor running conditions, I would suggest some basic checks first. The spark arrestor screen is a big culprit on this model.
Basics to check:
1) Spark plug - brown or dark brown - OK
a) is it carbon or fuel fouled
b) is there spark
2) Muffler remove for inspection
a) exhaust screen clean or plugged
b) inspect cylinder wall/piston as the flywheel is slowly rotated
3) Check cylinder compression
Fuel starvation - 'lean fuel' condition
Basic things to check:
1) spark plug
2) spark arrestor in muffler
3) fuel lines and tank filter
4) turn adjustment needles out (counterclockwise) 1/4 to 1/2 turn
5) check impulse tube and intake boot for cracks or leaks
*if all of the above are OK and/or do not improve performance then:
6) replace gaskets/diaphragms
a) use a spray carb cleaner to clean jets, holes, and body of carb
b) fuel pump diaphragm goes against the carb body,
then the gasket towards the outside
c) metering gasket goes against the carb body,
and the diaphragm goes towards the outside
Posted on Nov 23, 2009
If you bought the trimmer new there should be a rod about 6" long and 1/8" thick. Above the trimmer head below the trimmer gearbox there is a hole. You have to put the rod in that hole and turn the head until that locks it from turning.
From there you can screw the trimmer head off by hand, or a strap wrench if it's really tight. It may be left hand threads.
Posted on May 24, 2010
hello sir, i'm guessing the rope is broken , first you'll need a c-clamp large enough to clamp the spooler, needle-nose pliers,a small tipped screwdriver and a new length of rope.the safest way is to remove the rewind assembly cover leaving the spooler in place in its housing. try to remove the old rope with neddle nose pliers ans small tipped screwdriver.next hand spin the spooler to achieve spring tension until stops back off enough to line holes up, place c-clamp to hold it in place,now try to fish the new rope into the hole in the knot recess,trying to guide it to the exit hole in the cover, ( it's easier to feed the rope if you singe the end of the rope with a bic lighter and form to a point )and with a small knot at the other end,pull the rope all the way until you can seat the knot into the knot recess.next tie a loop knot into the other end of the rope,so the end wont be recoiled all the way into the housing.with tesion on the rope gently remove the c-clamp and let the rope be drawed in.if it draws all the way to the loop knot, check to see if the spooler is full if so,( not too full where rope is binding ) pull the rope about a foot and re clamp the spooler and install the pull handle, if rope is too long you may have to cut to length. if it doesn't draw all the way to the loop knot and the spooler is not full than you may need to add anoyher revolution to the spring tension in the same fashion as described above.there are eisier ways but that evolves removal of the spooler and repacking the reciol spring.( not for the novice ). hope this helps,MrFixIt,thank you. `
Posted on Feb 18, 2012
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