Question about Dometic Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
does the flame ever got out if not ,the tsat is not the problem. It could be that the flame is not hot enough or the flue has a restriction
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
It is key that all control switches are in the correct position, depending on what power source you are using, gas, electric, etc. If the switches are not in the proper setting, the unit will not operate.
Here's the manual for your fridge that should be printed out for your use and reference (and reading enjoyment). It has all the info needed to operate and troubleshoot it.
Typically, when using any gas appliance with a pilot light, the sensor has to first be hot enough to trigger it to allow the safety gas shutoff to open and allow the gas to flow to the pilot/burner. Follow the instructions and you should be all set.
Hope you find this helpful and best regards!
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
Here is an interesting possible problem to look in to
First a bit of background on LP gas
Your LP system operates on 1/2 lb of pressure Not much more than a breath of air. Keep this in mind for a minute.
A lot of RV's have been built over the years using rubber hoses to connect LP gas to water heaters, furnaces, and refers.
Over time rubber and LP gas create an oil, if you have a low spot in your rubber line that oil will collect in the low spot - - Remember the 1/2# of pressure from earlier? Does not take a lot of oil build up to over power the 1/2 # of pressure and now you are not getting LP gas to your refer.
This is one possibility. The lines will need to be removed from the refer and other low setting items like the water heater and furnace also from the LP tank regulator and the using NO MORE THAN 10 pounds of air pressure blown out. BE VERY CAREFUL this oil is some really nasty stuff - cover the ends of the lines with a cloth in a plastic bag with some holes poked in the bag and rubber band it on.
But first lets look at some other options
Your refer has to have 12 volt power to it to operate
90+ % of all 12 volt issues are grounding problems.
Make sure you have at least 12 to 13 volts to the refer and that you have a good ground.
Next Are you getting gas flow to the burner?
If you are getting gas try changing your thermocouple They run a couple of buck and is an easy test.
If you have 12 volt power and gas have you noticed an ammoina smell?
This model has been known to lose the cooling unit
Hope this helps
Posted on Mar 31, 2010
Check any fuses/circuit breakers in harness from battery. That battery should supply 12 volts dc to fridge lugs/terminals at bottom of fridge on outside behind vent.
If battery is good and hooked up properly but no 12 volts to fridge, then you will have to trace back to battery for broken /bad wire. If you want to test quickly, just run 2 jumper wires from battery to those 2 lugs marked + and - Battery + to + (pos)at fridge, and - battery to -Neg at fridge. That should allow you to run it on propane or 12 volt. Remember, running it on 12 volts will kill that battery pretty quick, unless it's being charged. When you are plugged in, the converter supplies the 12 volts to your fridge, as well as should be charging your battery.
Posted on Jun 22, 2010
The flue baffle was the solution that worked for me as well. Below is a response I posted to a similar post.
I had a similar problem. The flue would get hot and the cooling tubes would get "warm". The refrig would get a LITTLE cool but nothing to be of any help.
I solved it though...it turns out there is a "flue baffle" (twisty little metal thing) that is supposed to hang in the inside of the baffle. It hangs from a screw found on top of the baffle and it is supposed to hang down.
The screw that held mine was corroded and flue baffle had fallen into the baffle and landed on top of the burner.
I ended up fishing the flue baffle out of the top of the baffle with a coat hanger, then rehanging it using a new screw. That solved my problem.
Not sure if this will work for you or not but good luck.
By the way, you can find an owner's manual with a diagram showing the flue, the flue baffle, and the piece of metal holding it here:
Look on p.9, figure 9. Item C is the flue baffle and the wire holding it. Item B is the screw that was corroded on mine, and ended up dropping the baffle down to the bottom of the flue.
Below is a link to some generic directions on solving fridge-related problems. I found it to be VERY useful.
Posted on Jul 28, 2010
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