Question about Shimano XT M772 Shadow 9-Speed Rear Derailleur

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Shimano alivio front derailleur doesn't shift from intermidiate chain ring to the smallest chain ring in a inclined riding

I have a Cannondale Trail 4 with Shimano Alivio Front and Rear Derailleur. I have been using this for 3 Months now but I encountered a problem with the front derailleur. When I ride on my MTB in an inclined road, upward moving,it cannot shift the chain from the intermidiate chainring to the smallest chainring. Unlike before, I was able to shift the front drailleur anytime from small to medium to large or vice versa even if I was in a hanging road. Now it can only shift in a smooth road. I already tried adjusting the alignment of it but it still didn't work. Hope you can help me solve my problem.

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  • Shimano Master
  • 978 Answers

There is typically not a single cause or solution to a specific shifting problem. The most common way to resolve your problem is to let off a bit on pedal pressure as you shift. The derailleur has to move the chain sideways off the teeth, and that is more difficult when the chain is under high pressure.

Posted on Apr 18, 2017

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  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

bikeservice
  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: Shimano 105. Front derailleur won't shift down

It sounds like you could have two different problems. Your derailleur has become contaminated or your shifter may need to be lubed. Either way, the likely solution is the same. The best solution to get the derailleur operating again is to spray it with GT-85 or PB blaster and manually move in back and furth until it is working again. The same goes for the 105 shifter, spray GT-85 inside the shifter by compressing the brake lever and spraying towards the head of the shift cable. This will solve a non-functioning shifter many times.

The only other problem that fits is the limit screws could be wrong or the deraileur is in the wrong position. This would not be the case unless someone adjusted your derailleur before the ride you started have that problem. Or if the derailleur has moved. Both of which require the derailleur to be fully readjusted.

Hope this helps. Thank you

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

  • 484 Answers

SOURCE: what is the adjustment procedure on a shimano deor

Try this first:
Shift into the small ring and release the cable. Pull it tight (with pliers) and re-tighten the cable. It should shift now. If it doesn't, the solution is a little time consuming, so i apologize in advance.
First, flip your bike onto the bars and saddle. Now shift into the small chainring and your lowest cassette cog (the largest in number of teeth). Release the cable from the front derailleur and set the adjustment knob for the front derailleur to its center point. You should find it on your shifter. Now adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur while turning the crank so that its stop sets it in a position where it just skims the chain but does not touch it. Now pull the cable taut and re-clamp the cable. Shift into the middle ring and shift the rear derailleur to its highest and lowest gears, making sure the chain does not rub the front derailleur. If it does rub (it will be in either the lowest or highest cog on the cassette), adjust the front derailleur by way of the adjustment knob to clear the rub. Then shift into the big ring and you should have no problem. Set the "H" stop if necessary.

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

agent91
  • 2100 Answers

SOURCE: How do the adjusting screws work on a shimano

They are basically stop screws, the stop the derailleur from pushing the chain off the sprockets in both directions,You can adjust these so you don't have to worry about losing a chain or grinding a chain, trying to get it in position.

Posted on Feb 15, 2010

dunnbiker
  • 8546 Answers

SOURCE: i have shimano rd6500 rear derailleurs. when chain

If you learn to shift correctly this won't happen..

Google bicycle shifting technique, for example:

http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/

You should NEVER run cross-chained (big-big or small-small). The drive train performs best when the chainline is as close to straight as possible. Excess sideways stress on the chain will wear it out prematurely and increase its normal efficiency.

To demonstrate this for yourself, put the bike in the same combination of gears you're having a problem with. Get behind the bike and look staright along the top of the chain. As you can see the line of the chain is a mild zig-zag where it is parallel to the bike at each gear but needs to angle across the drivetrain in between. On some bikes the chain might even come in contact with the next larger chainring when used this way.


If you can shift to the big-big combination without snapping the rear derailleur off, you're lucky. The big-big combo uses up all available chain length and the rear derailleur will be pulled toward the front of the bike, sometimes so far that it is in danger of being snapped off.

THERE IS NO UPSIDE TO CROSS-CHAINING.

As you can see, the rear derailleur is not long enough to **** up all the slack this gear combination creates. There are other combinations that would yield the equivalent gear ratio without either stressing the drivetrain or dropping the chain.

The basics of shifting are these:
1) The big ring and right side of the cassette in back are for speed.
2) The small ring and the left side of the cassette are for high torque, lower speed

Posted on Feb 24, 2010

Coachphil
  • 347 Answers

SOURCE: Hi Everyone! I have a Shimano

No -

If you are going to use the front triple crankset, then you need to use the 6603 components. These are for Triple set-ups.

If you intend to keep your bike a triple, then everything in the drivetrain must be the triple designation, hence the XX03.

If you want to change the crankset to a compact, then you can use the 6600 (double) equipment, but you will need to change the left (front shifter) to a double as well. The compact crankset, will give you virtually the same range as the triple and be much lighter and shift better.

The cassette: You can use any 10 spd cassette from Shimano or SRAM as long as the rear cog is no larger than 27. if you want to use a larger cog like a 28, then you will have to use the 6700 group, assuming yoiu want to stay with shimano ultegra.

Final Note: Since you are chainging everything, you may want to consider the SRAM Apex group, this gives you more gear ratio than the Ultegra, is slightly less expensive and around the same weight. Great alternative to Triple bikes.

Parts you will need to convert:
Rear Derailleur
Front Derailleur (if changing to compact double or Apex)
Chain
Shifter set (if Apex)
Crankset (if Apex or compact shimano)
Bottom Bracket (if Apex)

The biggest thing is that Shifters and rear derailleur must be from the same company (shimano, SRAM, etc.) after that just make sure that yoiu use 10spd with 10spd, 9 with 9, and so on. Everything else can mix and match.

Posted on Dec 18, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks v much......ok so will use my 6603 levers, 5603 Hollowtech triple chainset, then 6700 derailleurs (front and back) and 6700 cassette!!!!! "

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Cannot get rear derailer to work properly 24 inch girls evolution


Don't start messing with the derailleur yet! Make sure your shifting trouble isn't due to something else, such as a warped, dirty, or stretched chain, gummed-up pulleys, crud in the cable housing, trapped cable, or a bent derailleur hanger
Clean the chain and the rear derailleur pulleys. Pull the chain away from each pulley, and turn the pulley to make sure it can move freely. A pulley that offers resistance to turning must be replaced.
Now check the cable to be sure it slides freely. Mud and grit within the cable housing, or on a cable-guide, can keep the derailleur from moving a "full gear" during downshifts. If the cable doesn't slide freely in the housing, you may be able to clean or lube it to restore smooth shifting.
Let the high-gear limit screw. In your highest gear on the shifter, and with the chain on the smallest cog, position the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the small cog. Run the chain a bit with the front derailleur in the large ring, adjusting the limit screw until the pulley and the cog seem to match perfectly.

Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.



Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)

Closeup of setting the limiting screw.



Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works).

Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.



Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.

Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.





Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied.

Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.





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1 Answer

My chain occasionally comes loose when I hit a bump. How can I make adjustments to prevent the chain from coming loose. I have a Shimano tourr.ey gear mechanism. If I could obtain the instruction manual...


For the wide range of gearing on a MTB, the rear derailleur has to be able to adjust a large amount. If you shift into the smallest front chainwheel and the smallest cog on the rear (position 1), you'll probably see the chain is very loose and the rear derailleur is pointed back horizontally. Conversely, if in the largest front chainwheel and the largest rear cog, the derailleur will be pointed forward (position 2)
Couple things to do: 1) Avoid the gearing combination of the smallest cogs. Instead, use the middle chain ring and a larger cog (you'll have the same net gear ratio). 2) You can remove a link from the chain. A chain tool is about $10.00. You push the pin out through all but the last plate on two links, bend the chain slightly to pop those 2 links out (2 links = a wide link + a narrow link), then put the chain back together. This is only advisable if in position 2 there is some additional travel for the derailleur and in position 1, the derailleur has no additional travel. 3) Make sure your chainrings aren't bent, straighten (use a open-end wrench and gently pull the chain ring back to flat). This isn't likely b/c you don't indicate the chain falls off while shifting. 4). If the chain falls of the inside, screw in about 1/4 turn the inner limit screw on the front deraillleur. If the chain falls off the outside, screw in about 1/4 to 1/2 turn the outer limit screw on the front derailleur.

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Good evening - I have Shimano Alivio Gears on my Cannondale F6 MTB and the gears are trying to change down a gear on the rear cogs (go to the larger cog) and need adjusting - which screw is the one to...


Neither screw is for mis-shifts. Those are limit screws for the largest and smallest cogs. Tweaking the cable tension will usually bring in the indexing...

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur

It sounds like your cable is/was a smidge too tight.

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Yeah you will run into that at some bike shops. When they see older components like that, they often refuse to adjust them for fear of breakage and liability. Try a different bike shop if you can, or if you are confident in your mechanical abilities, try it yourself, instructions here:
http://www.ehow.com/how_6086607_adjust-shimano-rear-derailleur.html

Good luck.

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1 Answer

I have bought an Alivio front gear. Do I have to break the chain to fit it?


The easy answer and solution is yes, which will give you the opportunity to fit a handy little device called a missing link, which will allow you to remove your chain for cleaning in the future. They are available at bike shops and cost about $6.

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sounds like a pretty good bike for what you will be using it for

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Hi log onto shimano.com and you will find what you are looking for

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1 Answer

What is the adjustment procedure on a shimano deor front derailleur. it will not shift into high gear.


Try this first:
Shift into the small ring and release the cable. Pull it tight (with pliers) and re-tighten the cable. It should shift now. If it doesn't, the solution is a little time consuming, so i apologize in advance.
First, flip your bike onto the bars and saddle. Now shift into the small chainring and your lowest cassette cog (the largest in number of teeth). Release the cable from the front derailleur and set the adjustment knob for the front derailleur to its center point. You should find it on your shifter. Now adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur while turning the crank so that its stop sets it in a position where it just skims the chain but does not touch it. Now pull the cable taut and re-clamp the cable. Shift into the middle ring and shift the rear derailleur to its highest and lowest gears, making sure the chain does not rub the front derailleur. If it does rub (it will be in either the lowest or highest cog on the cassette), adjust the front derailleur by way of the adjustment knob to clear the rub. Then shift into the big ring and you should have no problem. Set the "H" stop if necessary.

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Adverse temperatures can affect metal, and left idle over time the cables can stretch.. It needs adjustment. Usually the is a pair of screws on top which limit the movement of the derailleur.

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