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Coverstitch hem stretchy knit tunneling

Coverstitch hem on a stretchy knit fabric, getting skipped stitches and tunnelling

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 106 Answers

SOURCE: bernina 1300 dc overlocker skipping stitches

Make sure the chain stitch thread is threaded exactly as it should be, make doubly sure the thread comes off the bobbin vertically and runs through all eyes smoothly. Any faults in the threading causes extra tension at the needle despite what the tension is set on.
If this is not the cause then the needle depth and the looper timing needs checking.
Rob

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

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  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: Can I loosen the presser foot so knits will not stretch

Pressure on the pressure foot can be adjusted on some machines by turning the knob on the top leftside of the machine directly above the needle assembly. Look for a knob that has fabric types on it and adjust accordingly. Also check your thread tensions.

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: rolled hem on chiffon

Turn under the edge just about 1/4" and do a rolled edge then you can go back and trim off any of the folded under fabric that may show. Also, this keeps the hem from pulling away so easily. You may also try putting some water soluble stabilizer under the fabric before you serge.

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: My Elna Supermatic model 722010 now skips stitches.

Take a look through this comprehensive list of
TROUBLESHOOTING
symptoms and possible solutions, it may also be useful for further reference in other times of need.

Check the timing of the needle to the hook. HERE is a guide to generic principles of Timing



Now also take a more specific look at tension issues....
Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.

Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks

Best Wishes
Martyn
Bargain Box in Australia

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

SOURCE: husqvarna 936 coverstitch is skipping stitches in

sounds like the needle is damaged-time for new needle

Posted on Sep 26, 2010

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1 Answer

I have tunneling on fabric when i use the zigzag stitch.


Sometimes it is because the tension is too tight.

Also, if it is light-weight fabric, like chiffon or fine silk, the fabric does not have enough body to hold the stitching flat. You can add tissue paper to the fabric and stitch it into the seam. Once stitched, the tissue paper can easily be torn away. (If your machine has a blind hem presser foot--or what she refers to as an over edge foot below, it may be helpful. It is a presser foot that has a bar that separates the right and left side of the stitch and provides just enough leeway for the thread to lie flat.)

tunneling when zigzagging Threads Magazine Gatherings Forum Sewing...

Jul 09, 2017 | Sewing Machines

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Best tension settings for a rolled hem on stretchy fabric


you don't mention if the machine is a sewing machine or serger, or the name or model number?

Apr 15, 2016 | Sewing Machines

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Hemming knit fabric with ball point needle but have skipped stitches.


you may need a new ball point needle, the tip to the needle could have some damage to it. How to Choose Sewing Machine Needle for Knits eHow

Feb 21, 2014 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I do the skinny narrow hem stitch


Blind hem or straight stitch with 1/8" or 1/4" hemmer foot. Fabric inserted into right-hand "tunnel". Always do a regular backstitch, forward stitch before inserting your fabric in. Makes it easier! Happy sewing. Suggestion: make miniature copy of your manual and you can always have it handy for reference. Jimmy

Apr 03, 2012 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Can you do a coverstitch on the Brother 634D serger


I don't think so, the D in your model name would denote that it has Differential feeding but is probably a 3/4 Marrowing stitch only. So this means it would do 3 thread overlock, 4 thread overlock and you can probably set it up for rolled hemming too.

Coverstitch is fairly new to home sergers and is available on some machines along with the 3 and 4 thread stitches, but changing between the regular overlock and a coverstitch takes a few minutes. The model number will usually have a "C" in the name. Also, during coverstitch the blades are disenaged and don't trim your fabric so you still need often to go back with blunt scissors and trim the raw edge.

And sewing coverstitch can be finicky, with skipped stitches a problem. Use high quality thread and XL (extra long) or SUX (stretch extra long) needles to avoid this.

However some manufacturers are now making dedicated coverstitch machines; if you are assembling a garment with your regular serger, you can then just move over to the coverstitch machine to sew the hems and necklines and not spend 20 mins changing over your machine's functions. Much more productive.

You may wish to check out the Brother 2340CV, this is their dedicated domestic coverstitch machine. Link to product info is http://www.brother-usa.com/homesewing/ModelDetail.aspx?ProductID=2340CV

In the meantime, best solution is a twin needle to stitch the hem from the right side of the garment on your regular sewing machine, looks much the same, and you can get twin needles with a 4mm or 2.2 mm gap and in stretch and sharp tips for less than $10 each. Just iron up the hem about 1.5cm deep, and thread up your sewing machine with the twin needle and two spools of same colour on top (I just wind an extra bobbin and use this plus the original thread spool rather than buy two spools).

Just sew really slow as the twin needle builds up a lot of heat and will break if you push it along. I use this finish on all my knit garments and it works just fine. Sometimes I'll iron in a 2cm strip of fusible web inside the hem to give it some firmness in a neckline, then twin needle stitch at about 1.7 from the folded edge.

Hope this answers your question.

Oct 23, 2011 | Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing...

1 Answer

I've got an Elna 634 overlocker, and want to turn


Just trim the fabric to the desired hem length plus one inch, then overlock around this raw edge with thread close colour match to the fabric.

You then have the choice of either stitching around with a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, or hand sewing.

Being lycra shouldn't change how you hem them unless the trouser leg is extremely close fitting and the hem seam is going to be under tension.

My first choice would be using a twin needle in straight stitch from top side but this finish can pop/break if the hem is under tension. But perfect for most knit hems.

If you hand sew then you can turn up hem allowance and put a length of fusible hemming web inside the hem allowance and press it to hold. Then do a back stitch hand sew around to hold hem in place.

If you sew with the regular sewing machine, then use either the stretch stitch or a very small zig zag, and a ball point or stretch needle.

On ready to wear you would see a coverstitch hem but your overlocker doens't have this stitch.

Jun 12, 2011 | Elna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I am trying to hem a pair of Lulu Lemon yoga pants and the material keeps getting caught (pulled down into the needle guide.) I am using a double needle and in "B" # 73. That design actually allows the...


Most likely the pants are a knit or stretchy fabric and you should be using a ballpoint needle especially for knits. Try poking the needles through your fabric and pull them back out just to see if there's a burr on one of them. If not, you can use them if you can't get the ballpoint ones. If the fabric is knit and it keeps getting caught, try putting a stabilizer under the fabric to get it to sew smoothly. You can try a light tearaway from Joanne Fabrics. If you can't get to a store, try waxed paper, tissue paper, an old pattern or anything that you have that can be torn away after you stitch. You only need a strip on the bottom of the hem. If the pattern is intricate and the paper sticks after the tearaway process, you can just dampen the paper so it will fall off. Hope this solves your problem.

Sep 10, 2010 | Kenmore 19233 Computerized Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Cant hem unable to workout what length to start with to end up with the correct length required looking at the manual it says to take the hem and fold it over etc. but its very confusing


Sorry, I don't understand just what you mean by "length to start". Length of what - stitch? hem turn-up?
Let us assume you are taking up a hem of a pair of pants. Try them on and put a pin where you want the hem to finish i.e. this will be the bottom of the pants. Take pants off, turn them inside out (careful that your pin does not fall out!) and fold the excess pants on that pin mark. The excess fabric should be on the outside, not tucked inside the leg tunnel. Measure how much it is from the existing hem to where you folded it over, let us say for the purposes of this exercise it is 4 inches. Your hem is to be 1 inch and you need 1/2 inch to turn under for a neat finish, total 1 1/2 inches, so you need to cut off 2 1/2 inches from the bottom of each pants leg. Fold 1/2inch at new leg bottom (wrong side of fabric to wrong side), press, fold 1 inch hem same way and press. Place pins every 2inches or so at a right angle to the hem edge. Pins should come out 1/4inch from edge of hem where the 1/2inch neatening fold was made (this is where I wish I could draw a picture!). Fold the hem back inside the leg tunnel. The pins should make the fabric fold under only enough so that 1/4inch of the hem sticks out beyond the pants leg. You will sew on this bit using the blind hem stitch (04 on my 7550). You might need to adjust the stitch width - not length - so that the straight part of the stitch goes along the hem bit and the zig-zag JUST bites into the pants leg fabric.
I do hope this lengthy explanation is of some use to you!

Jul 01, 2008 | PfaFF Creative 7570

5 Answers

Coverstitching on White Speedylock serger


Your machine cannot do a cover stitch. Check the Brother website, they make a cover stitch only machine, it works much better than any of the serger/cover stitch combination machines, and it is a lot less money.

Nov 19, 2007 | White Sewing Speedylock 1600 Mechanical...

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