Question about Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer
Only let's me wash in delicate cycle
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It could be as simple as having the water supply hoses switched, that is, the cold and hot water hoses are connected to the opposite inlet connections on the washer.
You can check for this by feeling each hose and seeing which one is getting warm and trace it from the water supply valves to the washer and see if that's the issue.
It the hoses are connected to the proper washer inlets and they are connected to the correct water supply valves, it would appear that the water inlet valve on the washer is faulty and should be replaced.
With the complete model number for your washer, you can locate the replacement part at www.searspartsdirect.com and order one online as well, if you wish.
The site will provide you with a line drawing and parts list for your washer and the replacement is straight forward and simple for most people to do themselves. Just unplug the washer from the electric outlet and turn off the water supply valves and disconnect the hoses at the washer. Now remove the back panel of the washer and you should be able to get at the water valve.
Remove the screw(s) that hold the valve onto the washer cabinet and you can get at the wiring plug that controls the valve. Just swap it out and connect the plug and re-mount the valve to the washer and put the back on, connect the hoses, (make sure to get them on the right location HOT / COLD) and plug in the washer and turn the water back on and you should be all set!
Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
HI. The first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.
NOTE_ If the lid switch passes the examination, the culprit will be the timer mechanism.
Posted on Dec 27, 2009
Testimonial: "I didn't mean to reject it :-P You nailed it! Thank you! Matt"
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
Also see the following for a more detailed description of how the transmission works.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
Testimonial: "At least at this point I know where to begin to make repairs. I will let you know just how things have worked out. Thanks, Ken Beals"
I HAVE A KENMORE FRONT LOADER WASHER. MODEL 41743042200 AND IT MAKES A NOISE WHEN IN THE SPIN CYCLE, THIS ONLY HAPPENS WHEN SPINNING. CAN SOMEONE HELP
Posted on May 26, 2010
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