When diagnosing a no-spin condition, found that wax motor was not getting voltage. Installed a new machine control per instructions on the repair manual. I ran the machine with the new board and smelled smoke. R-11on the machine control was toast, just like on the old one. examined wiring and put an ohmeter from neutral to every output on the board and found no resistance below 1.5k.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
On this model there could be several reasons why the washer will not go into the spin cycle. The most common problem is the machine control board not providing voltage to the door lock wax motor. This type of diagnosing will require accessing the console area & inspecting the machine control board resistors. I am sending you an image showing where on the control board to look. If the R11 resistor is burnt like I suspect then you will need to replace the door lock wax motor & machine control board. If this diagnosis does not help I am sending you a list of other possibilities. On this model you may consider calling a service tech out to diagnose & repair. Also if you need help with parts please send in the serial number. Please see the images provided in the attachment below for further instructions.
rewpa, 98% chance the door latch has stuck in the locked position. Yes, follow Maytags suggestion to access the "rip cord" for the door latch... (this is the mechanical override for it) to get the door open. After it's open, run another load of wash and see if it happens again. If it does, it is the door latch assy. that's the problem.
BTW, the door lock light is activated by a switch in the door latch assy. There's a "motor" in the assy... it's made of WAX! Yes, a "wax motor". Before the computer goes into spin, it sends 120V to this motor. The electricity heats the wax and it expands. As it expands, it pushes a plunger forward. This plunger trips both the door lock AND the switch. This sends the signal to the door light AND the computer saying "I'm locked! Go ahead and Spin!" When the cycle is complete, the computer drops the voltage to the wax motor. The wax cools off and contracts. This retracts the plunger... opening the door and shutting off the light. So... if this light stays on, the plunger is still extended and can be overridden using the rip cord.
If this happens again, let me know and I'll step you through disassembly and replacement of the wax motor.
There is a small actuator that locks the door before the spin cycle located in the door latch assembly. This actuator is called a wax motor, Maytag part # 12002535 is the redesigned part. It works by heating a ball of wax up which causes the actuator pin to push out and lock the door. It takes around 45 seconds to extend so it is rather slow compared to a typical electromechanical solenoid. The older wax motors have a brown actuator pin while the newer version has a black actuator pin. The wax motor failure is caused by moisture penetrating the wax motor (older design) over time, which causes the electrical resistance to drop to such a value that the small Q6 triac located on the upper control board overheats and shorts out internally. The triac is essentially an electronic switch that is controlled by a low control voltage, which is provided ultimately by the processor U1. The R11 overheats because the failed Q6 is allowing 120 volts on the triac's center control pin. When this happens, R11 burns and opens up electrically. Sometimes Q6 still looks normal and other times the plastic case ruptures after the failure. However, a burnt R11 is the telltale sign that you have had this failure and the Neptune washer should be left off to prevent further damage to your upper control board. To inspect your control board you need to do the following:
1. Unplug your Neptune's power cord.
2. Remove three Philips screws along top of washer console.
3. Pull top of control console towards you while pushing bottom of console away from you.
4. Control board is located behind timer assembly on back panel.
5. Inspect the R11 resistor located near the left control board mounting screw.
If your R11 is burnt, you have two options. The first is to repair the control board and the second option is to replace the control board. To repair your control board you will need a 25-watt pencil type soldering iron, solder, diagonal cutters, needle nose pliers, replacement Q6 and R11 components. Whether you repair or replace control board I would not power up machine until the new wax motor is installed or you risk damaging your repaired or new control board again.
If you have not experienced the No-Spin problem consider yourself lucky because you are now aware of the issue and can replace the wax motor before you have a failure. You need to inspect your door lock wax motor and make sure you dont have the older style with the brown actuator pin. Note: If you identify that you have the older brown pin wax motor you need to replace it a.s.a.p. so you don't experience the R11/Q6 failure. I would not use machine until the original wax motor is replaced
this is a problem that a lot of early neptune models had. it is most likely the wax motor on the door lock assembly is bad and needs replaced. but, almost every time that I've had that wax motor go out, it has blown the board also, therefore you also need to replace the control board. to see if the board is bad, you need to remove the 3 screws on the top of the control panel. then the panel slides forward a little and roll the top toward you. you will see the control board there. it is a large board, if the wax motor blew it, the R-11 resistor will be blown. it is easier to just look for a black spot on the board, if you do then see which one is blown and look at the numbers for that resistor. if it is the R-11 that is blown, then the board and wax motor need replaced. just a warning, the board is around $200. if you check this and that is not the problem, let me know. there are a couple other things that can cause your issue, but this is by far the most common, and unfortunately, the most expensive. good luck, shane.
does the door lock? if the answer is no then you have a blown resister on your main control board R11 and the reason it blew is your wax motor on your door lock is binding up. you need a new control board and wax motor.
If you have a Maytag check out the R-11 contact on your control board,it will be fried .If this is the case,replace the control board and the wax motor.If not ,it's time to replace the motor/motor control board...... Please leave a Rating !!! Thanx!
re original issue, see if R11 is burned. if so, need to change R11 resistor and associated triac, and probably wax motor so it won't do it again. temporary fix just cut out R11, door won't lock. if your model won't spin that way, depress actuator for microswitch from door wax motor. instructions on web.