Question about Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

3 Answers

Removed broken heating element on Whirlpool electric dryer...forgot to map wires for new element. Attached wires where I thoght they shold have gone. Dryer works but element didn't shut off after cycle and chassis became extremely hot. Unplugged unit.

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  • rdeberardis Jun 19, 2009

    I need to see a diagram of the wire connections on the heating element and identify which wires attach to which terminals.
    There are just two red wires that need to be connected.

  • rdeberardis Jun 19, 2009

    I don't really want to try to attach the wires on different terminals in case of short circuit or fry the element or thermostat. Isn't there a schematic showing the wire mapping?

  • rdeberardis Jun 19, 2009

    If a diagram is not available, can you describe which wire goes on what terminal?

    Thanks

  • rdeberardis Jun 19, 2009

    Two red wires coming out the back of the machine at the bottom and to the left of the heating element assembly. Heating element connection has two prongs opposite each other, another half way up the post and then a fourth at the end of the post.

    Hope this helps

  • rdeberardis Jun 19, 2009

    Two red wires coming out the back of the machine at the bottom and to the left of the heating element assembly. Heating element connection has two prongs opposite each other, another half way up the post and then a fourth at the end of the post.
    Hope this helps

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3 Answers

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  • Master
  • 1,197 Answers

I found one for my Whirlpool dryer inside! It was in a clear plasticbag taped to inside of front cover, I cam across it whilst I had therear panel off.

Maybe take off front/rear panel after unplugging, you may find one inside...

if that doesn help..... check out the diagrams in the below links

http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/whirlpool-parts/model_view_cats.cfm?id=21289

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/Zenzoidman/Dryers/dryer.jpg
if ur talking about the thermal cutoff wiring...... the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating element.one red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element
The two wires from the dryer are routed in series with the thermal fuse, high limit thermostat and heating element.
When the dryer gets poor venting, the thermal limit is supposed to open up first protecting the thermal fuse and heater from burning up, thermal limit opens at 350 degrees, fuse at 250 degrees.
Also, the thermal limit is designed to stay open for a long enough period to let things cool down before it closes again.
See also a wiring diagram
http://www.tpub.com/content/clothingandindividualequipment/TM-10-3510-209-24/css/TM-10-3510-209-24_29.htm

if u feel i ve been of help to u...... kindly rate my service..... as experts ur rating helps us do our work better!!!!!
good luck

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

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U just need to map wires properly again. I think the problem is just related to wrong mapping.
try something else in mapping. hope it will help

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

  • Anonymous Jun 19, 2009

    Actually its very difficult to say proper mapping without knowing the diagram.

  • Anonymous Jun 19, 2009

    I would not suggest mapping without seeing the actual prdouct. it may have the risk of damaging the appliance. i would suggest to use an electrician help in real.

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  • Master
  • 3,230 Answers

Hi there,

Modern appliances come with separate ground and neutral wires. Generally, this setup is safer, because the current-carrying neutral is not connected to the dryer case. However, it is useless if the wall receptacle does not have a separate ground slot. In that case, you'll have to do the very simple procedure of converting a 4-wire dryer to a 3-wire setup.
Steps
1. Identify the type of plug that you will need by looking at the "slot pattern" of the receptacle on the wall. You'll need to buy a new power cord/plug from an appliance or hardware store (~$12-$15).
2. The new cord (at the dryer end) will have 3 wires only, no ground wire. The center wire of this cable is the neutral wire and the outer wires are hot live wires. The hot wires connect to the outer 2 connections the power terminal block of the dryer, does not matter which is which as long as one hot is connected to each of the outer terminal connectors. (each outer wire is 110-120 volts which, when added, gives you the 220-240 volts.)
3. The center wire (neutral wire) of the cable goes to the center connector. Since in this case the neutral serves as a neutral and a ground connection, a jumper band (ground strap) is also connected to the center terminal and to the frame of the dryer. A green wire could also be used to connect the center connector to the frame of the dryer.
4. If the dryer cord does have colored wires, white is the neutral wire to the center connector, the red and black wires are the hot live wires which connect to the 2 outer connections of the dryer terminal block, don't forget the ground strap or green wire jumper from the center connector to the dryer frame. 
Tips
1. A good resource is this site: http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switch-outlet/dryer-circuit-wiring-and-hookup.php

2. Tighten the wire clips really well, but don't break them off! 
Warnings

1. Always make sure any electrical appliance is UNPLUGGED before working on it!

2. These instructions only apply to a centre-tapped 120/240V supply as found in the US and Canada; do NOT use them in other configurations. In particular, using neutral as ground will prevent ELCBs (earth leakage circuit breakers) or RCDs (residual current devices) from operating and hence present an electrocution hazard.

Good Luck
Thanks

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

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