This is the cold store refrigeratin mechine one day switch on the mechine compressor was burnt .This is 3phase 'bitzer' comperssor. The problem in a compressor but electric problem not affected in Cond fan , Evap fans ( single phase)and machine PCB controls. Sir, what is the main recern in failure of compressor .please send me
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Re: compressor winding problem
A 3 PHASE COMPRESSOR THAT LOOSES A LEG WILL NOT RUN. SO BE SURE YOU HaVE all 3 legs and check the legs across to each other with your vom, and then to ground. any leg not showing up for the compressor wires may indicate you need a NEW CONTACTOR. Check this and see if you get the same readings.
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Compressor relay could be fried. Feel the compressor. If it is too hot to touch then check your relay. The relays contacts could be welded together making bot windings stay powered up and overheating the compressor causing compressor shutdown on overload.
first of all are you sure its running correctly,if its overly hot to the touch is may sound like its running which it may be,but only on the start/run windings and if left this way it will burn out soon,it needs start/run windings to oppose the pressures inside the compressor to get it up to correct operating speeds,then the start winding cuts out of the circuit,this is where the ptc overload comes into play,as it does this sequence switching to make it operate correctly,just unplug it from the compressor and plug in a new one,also you may think you hear the compressor running,but its only the fans in the unit running,a compressor will run warm but shouldn't be overly hot to the touch,then if this isn't your problem,it could be an evaporator core blocked by ice and you cant get cold thru a solid block of ice so iuf its a self defrost model the defrost thermostat or defrost heater might be inopertive too
Good day, Some kind of compressor problem. If it will run a true 30 seconds then it is either the start relay mounted on the side of the compressor hanging up and not releasing after the compressor starts or the main windings in the compressor are starting to short, causing the compressor to draw too much current followed by the protective overload shutting the compressor down. The relay is pressed onto the compressor pins and can be removed.
A parts house should be able to test it for you. If bad, replace. If it tests good then the problem is internal to the compressor and would need the attention of a qualified tech.
P.S. If the unit is under 5 years of age, leave it alone and call for factory service. It may or may not be covered but if so it would be necessary to preserve the balance of the 5 year warranty.
this sounds like the compressor you are talking about. unplug the freezer. pull that plastic cover off of the front of the compressor and it will expose the wiring underneath it. it may have 2-3 wires but look to see if they are burned together anywhere. this is the only way the sparks could be jumping out. hopefully it is just the wires and not a burnt winding in the compressor. if it is either, repair wires or replace compressor
Sound's like the start relay overload on the compressor if you hear a humming and a click do not leave plugged in get new relay/overload at you local part store or the compressor winding will burn up and a new frig will occur message me if this is the sound and inconsistent cooling temp b4 you heard the buzzing and click take you model # to the parts store an easier repair which is good....
I have had this with other Taylor machines. The rear drive bearing has a pin driven into the coupling that turns the beater bar. This pin will shear off. The pulley will turn and give the illution that the beater bar is turning but it really isn't. With the unit unplugged, try holding the beater bar still and try turning the large drive pulley.
I have also had situations where the hex piece that the drive shaft goes into, was rounded out. As soon as the mix go a little firm, the beater bar would stop turning but the rear drive assy didn't.
Check this out and let me know.
the compressor should have a motor heat protect resetable snap switch called a "Klickson" located under a cover held on by a clip on the side of the compressor the klicks-on is wired between the motor relay and the compressor motor windings
start there check it with a meter for continuity
the cold control thermostat starts the compressor when the mercury vapor in the cold control bulb
attached to the evaporator calls for cooling so check it too and,let me know
I think you'll find the relay is there to start the pump by switching the mains to the shorter winding in the motor, hence three terminals.
Once the pump is running the relay "drops out" and the motor runs on the longer winding.
Check with a multimeter if the windings are intact.
There's no Positive and Negative for AC operated devices i.e. it doesn't matter which way around the power (live and neutral or Hot and Cold) goes in but Earth or Ground MUST be correct.
Dont kill yourself!!