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My Heater stopped working

I have tested the thermostat by switching --and thermostat seems to be fine. Looks like there is no power going in. How to troubleshoot?

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Need all your info on this machine especially the Model number. Is this Machine Gas or Electric? You can find the number under the lid.

Posted on Apr 19, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series Model 11060912990 Dryer won't start

check motor (you have 2.4 Kohm ) very high read
for motor must be lower.Check capacitor if hawe.

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

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SOURCE: My dryer heater is not working. How do I tell if

the element is just like a light bulb, if the coil is not broken then it is good, the 2 thermostats mounted on the side of the outer can can fail and cause no heat.
to check these, you need a meter to check continuity. if you dont have one, take both the thermostats to your local parts house and they can check them for you and also sell you a new thermostat kit with both in it.
usually about 40-50 bucks.
i would guess these have failed.

Posted on Mar 03, 2010

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My Blomberg 1330A stopped heating. Heating element seems fine, so now looking for the thermal switch...

Test the heating element with a meter for continuity with a meter.
After that follow the wires, one thermal fuse should be neer the heater element the other near the exhuast.

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Just replaced both elements to my reliance electric heater..heats fine but after 1 shower i have to reset red button and repeat process daily Whats up? thanks

Replace thermostats.
One of the thermostats is sticking causing overheating that trips ECO reset located on upper thermostat. There is no good way to test thermostats since testing means turning the temperature setting which temporarily unsticks bad thermostat so it looks like it works ok, so replace both thermostats.


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Vornado eh1-0020 was working fine and just suddenly stopped. No lights, no hum - just totally dead. Opened it, dusted, connections look ok. Anything else I can check or is it just

These heaters have a thermostatically controlled safety switch. It works very similar to your household iron for pressing clothes. On your iron, when the unit heats up the metal in the switch expands and "clicks" open stopping the power from heating up the element any more, then when it cools down it "clicks" closed and power is applied to the heating element again. Now here is the problem... in your heater, the elements are over-heating and causing the safety switch to "click" open stopping ALL power from going to the unit. IF you sit there long enough, you will eventually hear the "click" of the switch cooling down and then you will be able to turn it back on for a short time - then it will do it all over again. =( Unfortunately, this seems to be a common problem with this series of heater. There really is no "good" repair option as the price you will pay for someone to "fix" it, would probably be better spent going towards a new heater.

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Amana ARB9058CSO defrost system isn't working. I tested the timer and it seems fine. When in defrost mode there is 120V at the heater but no heat is generated, so i assume the heater is dead but can...

that's a calrod heater,they hardly ever go bad but it could be bad,try this,it's a good idea to change out the thermostat to while you're in there so do this,shut down the freezer control or unplug the machine,cut the two wires going to the thermostat located on top of the evap coil,wire the two wires together bypassing the thermostat,plug it in and put it in defrost,if the heater gets hot then you know the t-stat was bad and the heater is good,if it's in defrost and the heater doesn't get hot change out the heater and the t-stat and you shouldn't have to worry about either one of them going bad a gain.,also you can look at the t-stat,if it has clear plastic cap on top and it looks popped up on one side,it's bad,you can tell just by looking at the t-stat.hope this helps,when you cut the wires off of the t-stat cut them as close as you can to it so you can connect the new t-stat to the wires,when you get the new one the wire connectors come with the thermostat

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I have a cadet heater not working. When I try to push the reset button it does not seem to go in at all. Do I need to replace the complete heater unit or could it be the thermostat?

I had this same problem, which required a new heater. The thermostat tested fine. A bypass of the thermostat switch was attempted and the unit still would not work. The reset switch had never tripped to indicate a problem.

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My 6gal altward, seems to have no power to it, i have a small control panel that has switch for pump, water heator, and tak levels. If I switch the water heator on the pilot warning light does not come on...

One common spot for trouble is if you have the thermal cut off switch.(looks like a resistor in plastic sleeve, and runs from power to thermostat terminal.) Make sure there is power at thermostat terminal where it connects, if not check opposite end where connected, if yes, remove it from circuit and connect remaining spade directly to thermostat terminal and try it that way. Of course you've checked all fuses in main fuse panel I'm assuming.

Jun 01, 2010 | RTO Atwood DSI-RV Water Heater-6 Gallon

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Is there a reset switch?

There is a replaceable thermal fuse in the dryer.
Unplug the dryer.
Raise the top lid.
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The thermostat attached to the top of the heater must be replaced along with the thermal fuse located to the right of the heater and down about 2 inches. It should have 2 white wires going to it.
The thermostat and fuse come together in a kit.

Mar 03, 2010 | Crosley CDE6000 Electric Dryer

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My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?

Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Defrost heater wont heat up

so you seems to have done your homework. all the inputs are great.

you said you have 206 volts at the heater connection prior to connecting the heater.
and would become zero once the heater is connected.

so you have a loose connection from the timer to the defrost thermostat then to the heater.
does the defrost thermostat you are talking about is the same as the bi-metal that we used to refer in our technical language.( it is the part that would open up as the temperature inside the evaporator rises to a certain level.)

because if you are referring to the fridge thermostat which controls the compressor. ( this is also 0 ohm when closed), then the problem could be in your bi-metal.
this is the part in between the timer and the defrost heater.
it terminates the power once the temperature of the evaporator coil is about 5 degrees Celsius.
here's what you can do.

run the fridge for a day ( so that we would be sure that the bi-metal is close) then put the heater in place, turn the timer to heating mode by turning it slowly.

then place the test leads across the bi-metal, if you can measure 220 volts then that is the problem.

it is not shorting out even with a freezing temperature. you can further test the system by putting a jumper wire between the bi-metal and you heater should be heating up now.

tnx 4 using fixya,


Oct 31, 2008 | Refrigerators

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