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My Heater stopped working

I have tested the thermostat by switching --and thermostat seems to be fine. Looks like there is no power going in. How to troubleshoot?

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  • 162 Answers

Need all your info on this machine especially the Model number. Is this Machine Gas or Electric? You can find the number under the lid.

Posted on Apr 19, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series Model 11060912990 Dryer won't start

check motor (you have 2.4 Kohm ) very high read
for motor must be lower.Check capacitor if hawe.

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

tzweeb
  • 318 Answers

SOURCE: My dryer heater is not working. How do I tell if

the element is just like a light bulb, if the coil is not broken then it is good, the 2 thermostats mounted on the side of the outer can can fail and cause no heat.
to check these, you need a meter to check continuity. if you dont have one, take both the thermostats to your local parts house and they can check them for you and also sell you a new thermostat kit with both in it.
usually about 40-50 bucks.
i would guess these have failed.

Posted on Mar 03, 2010

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Replace thermostats.
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Is there a reset switch?


There is a replaceable thermal fuse in the dryer.
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Raise the top lid.
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My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
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A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Defrost heater wont heat up


so you seems to have done your homework. all the inputs are great.

you said you have 206 volts at the heater connection prior to connecting the heater.
and would become zero once the heater is connected.

so you have a loose connection from the timer to the defrost thermostat then to the heater.
does the defrost thermostat you are talking about is the same as the bi-metal that we used to refer in our technical language.( it is the part that would open up as the temperature inside the evaporator rises to a certain level.)

because if you are referring to the fridge thermostat which controls the compressor. ( this is also 0 ohm when closed), then the problem could be in your bi-metal.
this is the part in between the timer and the defrost heater.
it terminates the power once the temperature of the evaporator coil is about 5 degrees Celsius.
here's what you can do.

run the fridge for a day ( so that we would be sure that the bi-metal is close) then put the heater in place, turn the timer to heating mode by turning it slowly.

then place the test leads across the bi-metal, if you can measure 220 volts then that is the problem.

it is not shorting out even with a freezing temperature. you can further test the system by putting a jumper wire between the bi-metal and you heater should be heating up now.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Oct 31, 2008 | Refrigerators

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