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Removing the front plate on a Whirlpool WED7800XW

I need to replace the heater element on a 3 year old Whirlpool WED7800XW. I have read many times that you change out the heater element on these newer units from the front - removing the lower kick plate for access. Unfortunately, this unit has one solid full front plate (no lower kick plate). Can anyone tell me how to remove this full face plate on the Whirlpool WED7800XW?

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After you get to the element, you may want to troubleshoot other components. Common problems are failure of the thermal limiter on the element housing and poor ventilation. If the dryer is producing any heat at all, don't disassemble the dryer, you have a ventilation issue.

Unplug the dryer.

You need a 1" putty knife to get the top up. At the front left and right corners under the top panel there is a spring clip. It may be helpful to look with a flashlight first because there is an alignment pin that sits right beside them. They can be stubborn so you may need to hit the back of the putty knife to get them loose. Apply upward pressure on the top panel as you disengage the spring clips. You will also need to remove the screws that secure the front panel to the lint screen housing (2 or 4 philips screws).

Once you get both sides released, open the door 90 degrees and the top panel will lift up on a rear hinge. With the top up you can access two 5/16" hex screws that secure the front panel to the bulkhead. Remove these and the front panel should lean forward. Remove front panel.

Remove the 5/16" hex screws that secure the lower lint screen duct to the blower housing and front bulkhead and remove duct. Disconnect wiring harness for the moisture sensor at the bottom right of bulkhead. There will be 4 screws holding the bulkhead to the rest of the cabinet. Remove these and lift off front bulkhead assembly. Two rollers on the back will want to hang on to the drum but gently turning the bulkhead should release without much trouble.

Remove the belt by releasing tension on the idler pulley and, using the belt as a handle at the top, remove the belt and drum together. The element is on the right, and you will need to remove the wires from the thermal limiter at the back, hi limit thermostat in the middle, and element at the front.

To remove the element, there are two 1/4" screws at the front that are tough to get to because you don't have much clearance, but they support the front of the element housing. There is one screw at the rear. Remove the element and then the hi limit and thermal limiter screws.

Posted on Apr 18, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Water in basement in flood that covered the lower element. When power was turned back on, the green light on the top of the heater was blinking twice. When I hit the reset button, it is now blinking...


Yes sensor should be replaced along with lower element.

1) Manufacturer's say that flooded water heater should be replaced: Call homeowner's insurance company.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Flooded-water-heater.html

2) Brand of water heater is not known, but it could be the American or Craftmaster or Whirlpool energy-smart electric with control box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

3) With energy-smart:
1 flash is start-up failure, and 3 flashes is sensor failure.
The moisture probably shorted element and/or lower sensor.

4) The moisture inside tank will take long time to dry out, especially since the foam insulation is wrapped tight. To dry out element and sensor, you have to remove cover and insulation over element, but if you leave insulation off and run water heater, then the sensor is exposed to cool outside air and will not read temperature inside tank.
Plus a wet water heater is electric shock hazard.

5) Add a comment for more free help.

6) Take a moment and rate answer for accuracy:
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Sep 13, 2011 | Water Heaters

2 Answers

Hello - I have a 6-7 yr old Whirlpool EnergySmart 50 gallon 5500 watt water heater. (Two control boards fried and were replaced free). Symptom now is not enough hot water. No 'error codes' are blinking...


1) Residential water heaters are non-simultaneous. Only one element works at a time.
Upper element comes on until top of tank is heated, and then lower element is switched on until lower part of tank is heated. Lower element keeps tank hot during standby hours
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

2) Typical Whirlpool energy smart has 4500Watt elements. Look at label on side of tank
If both elements were ON, that would draw 9000Watts or 37.5 amps, requiring 50 amp breaker and 8 gauge wire. V x A = Watts.
All dual-element tanks are 240V.
Whirlpool energy smart requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker so electronics are not starved during operation. If your wire or breaker are undersized, that is suspect for repeated failure.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

3) Typical electric water heater heats 21 gallons per hour. First hour delivery is higher since elements heat water as you use it. Overall however, electric water heater cannot re-heat as fast as gas because gas water heater burner carries more BTU punch per minute than electric element. Gas heats about 41 gallons per minute, with higher first hour delivery.

4) IF YOU HAVE OLDER energy smart and installed newer board, then you could have non-simultaneous operation is reversed so that lower element comes on first.
Read following post at Fixya:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing
Contact Whirlpool 1-877-817-6750

5) Another potential problem is that you have sediment inside tank and that is reducing efficiency of lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

Add a comment with your experience so others with same-similar problem can benefit.

Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Apr 09, 2011 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Whirlpool 40 gallon energy smart elecrtic water heater. The control board binks once, by the panel means system start up failure,but we still have hot water,but every time we use the hot water it starts...


The evidence points to a control malfunction.
Call Whirlpool for assistance: 1-877-817-6750
You will need your model number and serial number located on label on side of tank.
Serial number is required because models change as the technology evolves.

Open following link to read product details about the Energy Smart, and download typical manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Note: Energy Smart water heater requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker.

Typical energy smart manual shows: 1 flash is start-up error, which indicates 'Power ON with no water in tank.'
This is not possible because at least the upper element would burn out, if not both elements.
If upper element burns out, this water heater will not make any hot water, since it is wired for ordinary non-simultaneous operation.
There cannot be air inside the tank since your hot water faucet is not spewing air.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Also be aware that model numbers change.
Read following account of fellow who replaced control board on his 4-year-old energy smart, and how he discovered wires are reversed on newer control boards. Be sure to ask Whirlpool about this possibility, in the event they say control board is faulty and send you new board:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing

Feb 27, 2011 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Our water heater is doing the same thing. . Before I replaced the board I checked the elements, both were about 13.5 ohms, after checking I made sure to replace all insulation and closed the access covers...


1) You have given good diagnostic information ... except brand and model number of water heater are missing.
Locate this information on label on side of tank.

2) 2 flashes for high temperature indicate you have Whirlpool or Craftmaster Energy Smart.
You have dual element 240V tank-type electric water heater with electronic control board and temperatures sensors.
Sensors can be ordered separately for $30 each.
Sensors seem like best suspect since elements test out and you have new control board.

3) Did you test elements for short to ground through center of element?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

4) Energy smart requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker. If wire or breaker are undersized, then I would expect chronic problems with electronics. I believe the requirement is so element draw or other factors don't starve electronic control board.

5) How it works: Energy smart is non-simultaneous water heater. Non-simultaneous means upper element turns on first. When upper temperature sensor is satisfied, control board cuts power to upper element and sends power to lower temperature sensor and element. So both elements are never ON at same time. Lower element runs until lower temperature sensor is satisfied. I do not know decision tree for how microchip processes the information.

6) I have examined this water heater and read the manual. I wrote following page, but have not conducted electrical testing on unit simply because it is controlled by micro-chip.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

7) Sample Energy Smart manual:
Manual does not show how to test temperature sensors, but manufacturer might have more information. Manufacturer might have information how changing meter can affect their electronics.
I would guess undersized wiring would have greater impact than electricity turning off for 1 minute.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf
Whirlpool 1-877-817-6750

8) 4500 Watt elements should test 12.3 ohms, so your elements check out fine.
Be sure to test for short to ground by setting multimeter to ohms, remove wires from element, and test each screw to bare metal part of heater and to metal base of element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/ohm-reading-for-emements.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

9) The water heater industry changes very fast, so current manual is best place to start troubleshooting.
If you have different brand than shown above, then open following link to identify manufacturer's website:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
Add a comment if you need help finding information

10) Post question on professional water heater forum for more eyes on same question:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 13, 2011 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

To check the elements hot water hearter stop heating.whirlpool electric


While the power is off to the water heater it's safe to remove the access panels. Once the elements are exposed a multimeter that is set on the Ohms can be used. The average reading of a good element is around 12 ohms. This can range a few ohms up or down. If you don't get a good reading the element will need to be replaced.
If the water heater has two elements the top element should be checked first. When a Whirlpool heater has two elements and the top goes out this will cause the water heater not to heat at all.
If both elements show they are good it would be recommended to contact the manufacturer. The technical support line for the Whirlpool water heaters is 1-877-817-6750.

Sep 02, 2010 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

How do you replace the heat element on a whirlpool LER8648 dryer?


Before replacing the heating element, check first the continuity of the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the heater box, the resistance of the heating element, and the continuity cycling thermostat located on the blower housing. Replace the heating element only when it reads open. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat should any one of them is found open. The cycling thermostat must have continuity between its thicker terminals; otherwise, replace it.

All of the above components are accessible through the rear of the dryer. Remove the rear panel by removing the screws securing i to the dryer cabinet. Replace the heating element by removing the screws attaching its housing to the heater box then securing the new heating element housing in place.

May 28, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

My 15 year-old RHEEM Warrior Model 71-40S forty gallon electric water heater is leaking, and the element also needs replaced. I am thinking it is likely time to get a new, energy-efficient model versus...


Rheem makes great products. Lowe's sells whirlpool brand and they are not all that bad for the money. I would buy something better than the budget 7 year warranty model though. My preferred choice is AO Smith. I would definitely replace your water heater if it is 15 years old- most don't go much longer than that, although mine is 27 years old and going strong! Please remember to make sure and extend your pressure relief valve down to within 6 inches of the floor when replacing the water heater as Code requires. A water heater blanket will also earn its keep in a short amount of time.

Jan 02, 2010 | Microwave Ovens

2 Answers

Leaking from the bottom


If the water cooler is more than 10 years old, the cathodic rod is probably all used up and the tank itself is taking a big hit with corrosion. Replace the water heater if the above is true. Otherwise on newer tanks, pull the heating element access panels, scoot aside the insulation, and look for leaks. Look for leaks at the spigot and at the top connections. For gas units, look for leaks only at the plumbing connections. Gas heaters might last 15 years before replacement is needed.

Nov 25, 2009 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

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