Question about Sharp LC-C4254U 42 in. LCD TV

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Sharp lc32 ad5e bk f404 fuse

Were can I purchase uk

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It can be purchased from most of the electronics spare part selling shops. It is not a hard to get component.
Gopakumar Gopalan Google

Posted on Apr 18, 2014


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I need sharp lc32 BX6M circuit manual

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I put number one in number two area an my seat is stock

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If you're in the UK and the Quinny is under 2 years old please contact your retailer with proof of purchase to make a warranty claim.

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My sharp LC-26DV24U is displaying a white screen only.

I have the same model Sharp TV with the same symptoms. The TV would sometimes work perfectly, then go to white screen (audio OK) and sometimes back to working perfectly again.

I saw Posts saying to check F404 and Q413 - My fuse F404 was not blown, and replacing the Q413 transistor did not fix it.

On Q413 I had about 12.4 VDC on the Emitter, 12.3 VDC on the Base and about 1.5 VDC on the Collector. My service manual called for 11.6 VDC on the Base lead. As a Test, I used a 150 Ohm resistor from Q413 Base to metal chassis ground, and that made the TV work OK.

I replaced the Q419 NPN silicon driver transistor, and now the TV has been restored to 100% proper operation.

I hope that helps someone else down the line.

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1 Answer

Sky remote code for sharp lc32-ct2e

Sky remote codes for Sharp TV are:
For model 66CSOTH: 1004, 1007, 1009, 1015, 1023, 1078, 1083, 1094, 1107, 1123, 1125, 1158, 1182, 1195



FOR 66FWF/54H CV-2133H(BK) 28JF73H 28LW92H 32LW92H DB5903H 51DT25H DV5161H DV5932H 66ES/03H DV51328 DV5107H 76SWS3H S6FWS3H DV5105H DV594TH DV5940H 59DS03H CV3730H, 28HW/50CH LC13E1E : [121].

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I recently purchased an Orange AD5 amp. It came to me dead so the store I bought it from told me to try to change the fuses for this amp is becoming rare and hard to get. I replaced both fuses with the...

Check for burned components, broken wires or cracked insulation on wires. Inspect the tube sockets and circuit boards for carbon tracks. Next, check the power supply rectifiers for shorts.

If you don't find anything, pull out all of the tubes (be sure to document where each tube goes!) and see if the fuses still blow. If they don't, one of the tubes has an internal short. (If the fuses blew only after warm-up, it would be an overload on a tube rather than a short through the tube.)

If this was a solid-state amplifier, I'd suggest checking the audio output driver transistors - this is the most common fuse-blowing failure in those.

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