Question about Siemens Dryers
Ok there could be several things preventing it from heating, here is a list gas valves, heat limit switches, bad thermostat, bad sensor. Time to open it up and get to testing. Sorry but this not one with a simple answer..
Posted on Apr 19, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Remove the rear cover and you will see the element and stats, you will need a meter to test them.
Pull one wire off each thermostat and with a meter that beeps, test across each thermostat, if they are o/k, then the meter will beep,
if no beep then no good.
Replace all heater stats, even if only one has gone
If the stats are o/k then you will have to check the heater, this is more involved as it entails removing the top cover and left side panel looking at the dryer from the rear.
Unplug the heater lead, and again test with meter,if element o/k, then prob is timer or main pcb could be faulty, it really does get quite involved.
There is also a thermistor at the front of the dryer, that is part of the heating circuit.
Plz rate my solution.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
SOURCE: no heat from dryer
This is a common problem with ALL electric dryers. What is most likely the problem is either a) your heating element has broken or b) your high limit cutoff has blown (this is simply a fuse that blows when it gets to hot). These problems almost 100% are cause from a vent that is clogged.
To know if your vent is clogged you go outside where the dryer vent exits the house. The air flow should be quite good, and you should be able to hear it from several feet away. If you feel no air, you have a clog. The clog MUST be fixed or you will have the same problem again.
To figure out what has gone wrong with the dryer we have to access the back of the machine. UNPLUG the dryer from the wall. Pull the dryer away and get behind. Remove the back panel (8 1/4 inch screws). The heating element is at the bottom right. There are two 1/4 inch screws holding it in. There will also be 2-3 wires on the left hand side. Note where these were plugged in, and then disconnect them.
Now, with the heating element in your hands you can see the coils. These glow red when the dryer works and get extremely hot. I pinch two coils at a time and look for a break. If you can visually see a coil broken that is your problem. If you have a multimeter you can check the continuity of the heater by touching your leads to the terminals the red wires you disconnected were plugged into. If the heater is fine, reconnect it.
Above the heater is the high limit cutoff. It has two wires going to it. The only way to know if it is good is to check it with a multimeter. If you know someone that can check the continuity, do it. These are 90% - 95% of the problem. But keep in mind, they are not the source of the problem. The heating element breaks for a reason, and the high limit cutoff blows for a reason. Check your vent!
Now, your model number is missing a character in between the 4 and the Q. I will need this to be complete and I can tell you the part numbers or the heating element and cutoff switch and an average price :)
Posted on May 29, 2010
Testimonial: "Yup it was the heater!! I was able to remove and replace it for a fraction of what it would have cost me to have the repair man do it. Thanks for all your help."
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