Question about Kenmore Ovens
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same FSE error which the whirpool web site advises that you will need to schedule a service appt to fix. Instead I leaded against the door while initiating the cleaning cycle and the door locks and oven cleans fine.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
SOURCE: Dead Whirlpool Double Oven
This happened to us the first time we used the self-cleaning feature. The repairman said we had to replace the whole electronic panel -- but when he put in the new panel it didn't work either. It turned out he just needed to replace the oven shutdown thermal fuse I believe. We finally got up enough courage to try the self-cleaning again and the exact thing happened. The door is locked and the electronic panel is dead again. So when we get it fixed we will never use the self-clean again.
Posted on Dec 05, 2008
SOURCE: oven wont work after self clean
I have a Whirlpool MOD. RBS275PDB17 single electric self-cleaning oven; although the manual is generic, it specifies, "When the cycle is completed and the oven cools, "End" will appear on the lower oven display and "LOCKED' will disappear" and "To Stop Self-Clean any time: Press UPPER/OFF, LOWER/OFF or OFF/CANCEL. If the oven temperature is too high, the door will remain locked. It will not unlock until the oven cools." Has your oven had time to cool?
Posted on Dec 21, 2008
The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
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