Question about Reliance Natural Gas Water Heater Control
Water stop heating the water have to be turn to very hot
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
How big is your bathtub? Is your water heater set on the hottest setting? What is the temperature of the hot water at the tap?
Keep in mind that hot water can cause severe burns. Children and those with diminished mental capacity can be seriously harmed by hot water.
The "40 Gallon" rating on the water heater is usually the amount of hot water the unit can produce in one hour. So the tank, and the amount of immediately available hot water, might be smaller than 40 gallons.
My bathtub is 2 feet wide by 1 foot deep and 4 feet long. This is 8 cubic feet or almost 60 gallons. So a 40 gallons of water at 120 degrees, mixed with 20 gallons of cold water (60 degrees), fills the tub with 100 degree water. My January cold water is 42 degrees, so it will take 40 gallons at 129 degrees to fill the tub. If the tub is cold to start it will take even hotter water.
So the water heater might be just fine.
1. turn the temperature up on your water heater- or the temperature control could be malfunctioning and not getting the water hot enough.
2. insulate your hot water pipes so that the water loses less heat on the way to the tub.
3. bigger water heater.
4. smaller bathtub, or less full bathtub.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
SOURCE: pilot light keeps going out
probably need to clean the pilot orfice out. You will have to pull the entire burner assembly to get it out. Pull the tube going to the pilot light out and the orfice will be in the end closest to the pilot light. Once you get it out there might be a white fuzzy substance on it, clean it off, the hole in the orfice is very small, DO NOT make it any bigger, find something to push thru it like a single strand off a wire brush. After cleaning re assemble and re light, this should cure your pilot problems.
Posted on Mar 16, 2010
SOURCE: The pilot light went out
The paid answerers might have a specialist in your model of water heater.
As a free answerer, I specialize in providing resources that might help you for free.
When you say the gas control pieces, I assume you mean you replaced your entire gas valve with a generic dial-type gas valve.
You replaced thermocouple, but you did not replace burner assembly that includes the pilot tube.
Your other gas appliances are working fine.
You have not installed a new gas furnace with a blower that is vented up the same chimney as the water heater.
You have put your hand near the vent hood to see if there is backflow coming into the water heater when the furnace turns on.
You have removed the vent hood to give you access to the vent pipe, and you lit a match and the smoke from that match drafted upwards. You have done the lighted-match test when the furnace turns on which reveals the general condition of the venting stack.
You have checked your outdoor vent stack to make sure there is no obstruction, or the vent hood is not missing.
The burner flame on the water heater is a clear blue color with very little yellow. This shows the quality of the combustion air and reveals if amount of gas flowing to burner is restricted.
Reliance is an AO Smith company
The site doesn't have a manual for the 501
I e-mailed Reliance several weeks ago asking for a 501 manual.
They send a generic gas water heater manual with no troubleshooting
Link above shows a typical Reliant heater, the 616
Age of your water heater can be seen on serial number.
The two numbers following first letter are the year water heater was made.
Troubleshooting begins on pg 29
Troubleshoot flowchart begins on page 31
The new gas water heaters have the FVIR system so troubleshooting includes that information.
I don't think the 501 would have a FVIR flammable vapor prevention because it is older
The new systems have an igniter
The troubleshoot flowchart gives valuable information
Posted on Oct 30, 2010
In my first 15 years as a plumber I never saw a pilot light issue on a gas WH that a new thermocouple didn't fix. Since the government mandated a redesign of the fire box, I've seen three that nothing ever fixed - two Whirlpools and one (my usually ultrareliable) AO Smith - including replacing the entire burner assembly and the regulator. And I've heard of many others.
Check the thermocouple connection for tight. (Don't strip.. threaded soft metals.)
Check the microvents on the bottom ? of the burn box for dust, even if it is new.
Call Reliant and demand new units until you get one that works.
Try another model. Consider a 52gal electric.
I've always recommended gas over electric, and AO Smith and Rheem were my recommendations (and "Reliants" were "lumber yard" water heaters. Sorry.)
Since the mandated redesigns, I don't really have a "proven reliable" model to suggest. I increasingly believe the restricted air flow design is the ultimate culprit, including any changes to the thermocouple/regulator construct to accommodate the restricted air flow design. Just my hunch.
Offered for what its worth. -- plumber in Indiana.
Posted on Jan 11, 2011
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