Question about Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

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My duo therm brisk air roof mount ac unit is blowing warm air, the amp draw on both the run and start lines is 3 amps, the compressor is hot, the condensor is not warm, the voltage across the run to common on the compressor is 120 vac and the voltage across the start-common is 300 vac. It appears there is an oily substance on one of the lines, perhaps the freon has leaked out.

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Yep have the leak fixed and properly charged.

Posted on Jun 19, 2009


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A little more info would help. When you say blows cold and then warm after a while, can you still here the compressor running? There are a couple of things that could cause this: 1. Check how much current the compressor is drawing. You will need an ammeter for this but it's necessary. From inside, if you have a penguin (low profile, 9" tall) hook the ammeter to the black wire in the harness. If you have the BriskAir then hook it to the blue wire. Start the A/C and watch the meter. The exact reading is temperature dependent but should be about 12 amps or so, this includes the motor. There is a rating plate visible from the air return that gives the exact amp draw for each unit. This is at 95 degrees F on the roof. For every 10 degrees over, add one amp, for every 10 degrees below, subtract one amp. If the reading is more than what it should be, most likely the coils (both evaporator and condenser) need to be cleaned. If there is too high an amp draw for a certain period, the compressor overload will shut it off but the fan will continue to run. Too low would be low freon most of the time.
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You don't say what size unit you have. Does it draw 76 amps and then go to about 10 or 12 and you can hear the compressor running or does it draw 76 amps and the breaker trips. I suspect it draws 76 amps until the breaker trips. Confirm that the capacitor is niether shorted nor open. It may be worth your time to replace the capacitor, if you have one of the correct size available. If this does not get your unit running, it sounds like you are drawing Locked Rotor Amps, which means your compressor has physically siezed. There are a couple other posibilities, but looks like its time for a professional.

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First of all, I think you mean 110 volts on your meter, not amps, just so we're on the same page. It sounds to me like you may have a capacitor problem on your compressor. I'll try to see if I can find you a part # if you have someone very experienced with electrical that can change it for you. they can be a little dangerous, so only someone familar with them should work with it. What the capacitor basically does is store voltage and uses it to help the big draw on start-up of the compressor, kind of like giving it a boost to get it started, and after it's up and running, all should be well if everything else is up to snuff. How old is the AC unit? Did it run well for you in the past? I'm asking this just in case it was a recent installation, with perhaps wrong size wire used. Should be minimum 12/2 , with 20amp breaker,if that means anything to you, or your mechanic.

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