Question about Ryobi 9 in. Benchtop Band Saw

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Ryobi Bandsaw model EBW4023L will not cut straight

Have adjusted guides, tension and even a new blade regardless of efforts will not or can not achieve a stright cut.

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I do a lot of resawing with mine and I have found that a 3/8" wide blade gives me nice straight cuts.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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  • 58 Answers

All band saw blades have whats called drift. Every blade is different from the other. Uae a scrap piece of wood and draw a straight line across it.Move the board through the blade following the line exactlly about half way through without moving the board side to side trace a pencil line on the saw table along edge of board. Now when you set up your fence it must be positioned paralel to your pencil line. If you got the line right even though the fence looks crooked it will cut straight

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

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1 Answer

Ryobi 9" Band saw blade


The problem might be blade drift, feed & speed rates. Are you using a fence? Do you have a good blade? I had pretty good luck with my Haltbar blades of www.sawblade.com . Does your blade track properly? Check this blog site . This might help too.

Jan 23, 2013 | Ryobi Saws

1 Answer

Ryobi band saw blade does not cut straight


The side guides should be just off touching the blade (top and bottom) The thrust bearing behind the blade should be just off th blade while it is free running (T & B). The amount of blade exposed to the timber needs to kept to a minimum - like top guide abou 1/4" above timber. Then, correct tension for blade size :)

Jan 23, 2013 | Ryobi 351009000 Blade 1/4 x 6T x 59 1/4"L

1 Answer

Hi,my bandsaw will not cut a straight line with or without the fence. the blade just wants to go to the left (as i look at it). i've even tried freehand but the bandsaw just doesn't want to know. it cuts...


Dave, this could be caused by a couple of things.

One, the blade tension may be too low.

Two, and in conjunction with #1, the blade guide on the left side of the blade may need to be brought closer to the blade ( but without actually touching).

Three, is thee any blade damage that could be pulling the blade to the left? Try another blade and see what results you get.

If you need help determining if one or more of these issues are the problem you're experiencing, or if you need help making the adjustments, you're welcome to send photos of your machine and I can walk you through it.

DIYpro

Apr 27, 2011 | General Saws

1 Answer

Need a manual for a sears/craftsman model #103.24300 bandsaw


Any particular reason? If general settings problem, please follow this advice:

Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... I assume that problem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is housed driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you have problem with your bandsaw, not related to adjustments, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Aug 15, 2010 | Craftsman Saws

1 Answer

Sorry as i have extremely little amount of info on this machine (not mine ) i said i would fix it for her it is a 3 wheeled machiene made by rexon i asked for the model & was told all she could find...


Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... You did not stated what is exactly the problem, I assume therefore tha tproblem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you still have some trouble with your bandsaw, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Aug 13, 2010 | Saws

1 Answer

I cannot get the blade to track correctly on my JET 12" band saw. What could be wrong? I have done exactly what the manual says to do. I am not sure the square box on the outside is fitting. The little arm...


i love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for bette adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock it in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

this general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, to not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

Jul 30, 2010 | Jet JWBS-16B 708749B 16-inch Bandsaw

3 Answers

Cut is always crooked. From the top to the bottom of the cut is always crooked. Can not get the saw to cut a 90 degree ( or even close to 90) angle. Even of I adjust the table to be out of square to the...


Hi,
It sounds as though you may be cutting too quickly. Try decreasing the pressure you are applying to the wood.
You could also try tightening the blade more, until it PINGS when you flick it with your finger.(When it's stationary of course)
I'm assuming your guides are adjusted correctly.
JR

Sep 27, 2009 | Ryobi 9 in. Benchtop Band Saw

2 Answers

Cutting straight


this is usually caused by a dull blade or you need to carefully re-adjust the blade guides

Aug 12, 2009 | Ryobi 9 in. Benchtop Band Saw

1 Answer

Set up bandsaw to cut straight


back off all guides and wheels from blade. Tighten idel wheel to tension blade. Turn by hand a few time to check that blade is tension correctly. Adjust top and bottom guides to just touch-off the side and back of blade.

Jul 29, 2009 | Saws

1 Answer

How do i take off and replace the blade on my berkel bandsaw


There should be a blade tensioning adjustment on the back of the upper wheel. You need to loosen this until the blade is loose, then open both front covers and possibly remove the guard, then install new blade and retension.
Then adjust the tracking and guides as follows:
Before tuning it up, loosen the guides and wheels away and square the table to the tensioned blade. Then follow these steps in order:
  1. First, adjust the upper wheel so the blade is tracking at the center or just to the front of center of the wheel tire. (You can see this with the cover removed, and adjust it with the nut/wing nut in the back).
  2. Now, make sure the blade guides are adjusted so they don't deflect the blade to either side (when looked at from the front), so they contact the blade just behind the gullet of the teeth, but not against the hooked teeth themselves, and are just tight enough to allow the blade to run freely (including the weld). (If your guides are worn and out of flat, you may wish to dress them on a sander before adjusting them against the blade.) Adjust the guides both above and below the table. At this point, ensure that the guide bar moves up and down easily and locks into position without torqueing the guides against the blade.
  3. Finally, adjust the bearings behind the blade, so they just kiss it, and turn freely when you revolve the bandsaw wheel. They will support the back of the blade when pressure is applied against it during a cut, and help immensely to keep the blade tracking straight.
At this point, check the cut by trying to follow a straght line penciled on a board. Some blades will naturally tend to veer slightly on a diagonal, depending on how they are sharpened, and you may have to adjust your fence to compensate for this "drift".
But if you follow the steps outlined above, and have a good sharp blade to begin with, you should be able to split a line.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!



Mar 23, 2009 | Saws

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