Question about 1995-1997 Chevy 1500 Truck Ignition Starter Alarm Switch

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95 z71 new fuel pump no fuel to injectors an no

95 z71 4x4 new coil,fuel filter,fuel pump,egr valve,roter button,pick up coil. No fire to the coil and no fuel to the injectors but gets fuel through the the filter but not to the injector... please help me

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  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    u are guessing, time for a dealer to fix this.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 191 Answers

SOURCE: gas not spraying at throttle body

replace the injector - before you do that test voltage going to the injector- is should pulse on and off to open and close it

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

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  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: 98 blazer 4.3 4x4. runs very rough. scan code

ethanol gas problem. add a can of SEAFOAM to tank of Premium gas. change fuel filter after 100 miles. then add SEAFOAM 3-5000 miles to keep fuel line/system;emissions, and valves clean of ethanol goop and water which is created by this awful ethanol mixture.

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

  • 2002 Answers

SOURCE: 1987 S-10 CHEVY

Do you hear the fuel pump buzz for a few seconds when you turn on the key? If not you have an electrical problem. If you do, then trace the fuel line from the tank to the first point where it connects to something and loosen the connection. Turn the key on and see if you get fuel. If not then the problem is between there and the tank. If you do then try other end . Keep doing this at every junction and you should find the cause of your problem. Hope this helps.

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

Louie_3006
  • 79 Answers

SOURCE: my blazer has a new fuel filter, egr valve and

Hello, this is a fuel pump problem. Blazers are known for this. Go to Under100Bucks.com and you can get a fuel pump for under 100 besides the 500 or 600 dollars it would cost you from a dealership. To get it started in the cold spray starting fluid into the throttle body it's under the air horn. You will have to do this every time to get it started but it should work. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: i have a 1989 chevy 2500 with a 350 its a 4x4 it

for the 1989 Chevy - my husband was having the same problem with this 89 Toyota - he replaced the throttle sensor - give that a try - doesn't hurt! good luck

Posted on Jan 30, 2010

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I believe I have answered this at least twice already. The pick-up coil is what tells the ECU to fire the injectors. If the ECU is not getting the signal then either the pick-up coil is no good, not getting power, or not properly grounded. The same for the ECU....it must get power, the signal from the pick-up coil, and a ground.

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Sounds like it could be the EGR Valve.If you can drive it and get up to 45-55 mph and it runs smooth then its the EGR valve that is stuck in the open position.I would take the EGR Valve off and clean the carbon out of it using a non-chlronated brake cleaner.

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So your codes are: Multiple random plus misfires on 1,4,8. Misfire during startup, and ignition coil E (cyl 5) primary or secondary circuit malfunction.

You said that four new coils were installed. Perhaps the coil to spark plug order and the firing order have been scrambled. The spark plug wires may be old and leaky--especially if they are the originals from 2003. You could have a vacuum leak into the intake manifold, the EGR valve could be sticking open when it should be closed, the fuel filter could be clogged, the fuel pump pressure could be too low or stuck at the idle setting, the fuel injectors could be dirty, and cylinder compression could be low (putting on the wrong size o-rings when reinstalling injectors will prevent proper compression.)

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If you do have fuel pressure, but there is no fuel getting into the cylinders to run the engine, then the engine does not have an injector signal or pulse to open the fuel injectors.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

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Try some injector cleaner in the fuel--might be a problem in # 3 injector. One cylinder misfiring should not cause the engine to stall. Replace the fuel filter, and check the air filter. Does this engine employ a distributor or a coil-pack?

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