Question about Nikonos SB-105 UW TTL Speedlight Set 11202 Imported Flash
Is it possible to use the Nikonos SB 103 in combination with and triggered by a slave-unit. I have an Olympus UW system camera with an Inox flash and want to use the Nikonos Flash SB 103 as a second flash that should be triggered via an slave-unit by the Inon flash. Is there any slave-unit that exists and fits on the Nikonos and that will give its light together with the Inon flash?
Another SB103 they work together you have to set one to slave
The other in command mode
Posted on Feb 01, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: SB800 firing but not syncing??
hi, i had this problem also but found a way around it . what is happening, is that the sb800 preflashes when you shoot and triggers any external flash heads a fraction of a second just before the camera takes the picture. you see the lights being trigered but it the light doesn't register on camera. ( preflasing asseses the amount of light needed for the correct exposure and is a feature on newer models of flashes ). what you can do to avoid this problem is to either use a radio trigger and slave, or set your flash to su-4 mode ,which cancels the preflashing. if you press the select button on the flash .you go into the menu \ scroll up and down till you reach the icon of two flash heads . press the select again and change from " off " to su-4 .that will cancel the preflashing and your other lights will be in sync with your camera . if you get confused go to page 76 in the sb800 manual it explains everything there / hope this was helpful. good luck charles yacoub
Posted on Sep 14, 2007
SOURCE: Nikon Speedlight SB-800
I had the same problem. You locked your flash by mistake if you have a lock symbol on your LCD. Press the ON/OFF & Sel buttons simultaneously & the lock symbol will disappear. Then reset your unit by pressing Mode & ON/OFF simultaneously for 3 second & you are good to go!
Posted on Mar 19, 2008
I have 2 SB-800s. When batteries leaked in one Nikon took forever to fix it, so they eventually sent me a refurb. Then they sent my original back. Which was great, until recently it developed this problem.
Another possibly related side effect is the modeling flash does not burst -- it only fires a single (very bright) flash.
The capacitor argument sounds likely. Coincidentally I also had a problem where the flash would fire sporadically -- but that was due to scuz buildup on the contacts.
Sorry I don't have a real solution for you.
Posted on Jan 16, 2010
1 - Make sure you don't have your diffuser screen pulled down. This is easy to overlook and will produce that effect.
2 - Reset your flash - hold down the "Mode" and "On/off" button together for a few seconds. This gets you out of any funky mode you could have accidently put yourself in
3 - Put camera in fully auto mode. That clears any weird modes you could have gotten into there
4 - Clean the contacts on the flash and camera. I use a pencil eraser and wipe with alcohol and paper towel. Dirty contacts can cause flash misfire or cause full flash during the preflash mode, which gives you dim or dark photos or sporatic flash operation.
Posted on Mar 31, 2010
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