Question about Ruud Heating & Cooling
I have a 15 year old Ruud UAKA-030JAZ unit, the fan spins, but I don't get cold air in the house. The fan outside is blowing cold air instead of warm air, and the pipe running from the unit isn't warm at all. I have a second unit (for upstairs), everything works fine. I replaced the run capacitor on the unit in question - same result. There is a Supco hard start boost on the unit, but I don't think that's the issue. Fan spins freely - nothing blocking it or anything like that. I had a contractor out at the end of last season, he put in a replacement contactor, I suspect that's the problem. The unit worked until end of season, then I turned it on this past week - worked for about 1/2 hour before I noticed it wasn't blowing cold again. I'm frustrated - the contractor has been here 2 times, and keeps telling me I need a new unit. I'm pretty sure that's not the case, but I'm flummoxed on what's wrong. Thanks in advance for any / all help!
There are 3 things to be considered,first,if the compressor motor `s connectors are having loose,it gives a hi ampere to your RELAY that can cause to its contacts being fried,second,the compressor motor itself is gaining a hi ampere already i.e. having unusual sound that can cause heavy friction inside the turning mechanism and third the last but not the least,maybe this time,the tubes or the compressor itself having very small holes that causes to the refrigerant to escape and it doesn`t gives off cold air.
Posted on Apr 23, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.
Posted on Nov 20, 2007
SOURCE: Fan runs but blowing hot air. Thunderstorm reset some breakers. I did reset the two breakers inside the house and one unit working fine, upstairs unit fan running but blowing warm air only. Box out
Sounds like your Capacitor is bad, or you had a wire burn off compressor terminal or capacitor. Way you can check capacitor is take cover off and see if looks swollen. Make sure to turn off power before taking panel off.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
If the out door fan keeps running and the compressor cycles off that would be the overload in the compressor.
What keeps the windings cool is the refrigerant back to the compressor.
For the overload to cycle it would have to be either not enough cooling back to the compressor or high amp draw, which could be the metering device (txv or orifice) or low on charge, or other things would be a bad capacitor, sometimes a bad start relay not staying open, when compressor gets up to speed or anything causing the compressor to draw high amps.
To check the refrigerant, he needs to check the superheat at the compressor it should be appoximately 12° to15°, and next time the compressor goes off if you shut the power off and feel the top of the compressor and if it's hot 130° or higher it's probably refrigerant.
Posted on Aug 19, 2009
Due to the many different questions I see about Air Conditioning, I am including this overview to help us better understand each other for trouble shooting. A basic air conditioning system has a Thermostat, Air Handler or Furnace Fan and a Condensing unit. In a split system, the condensing unit (Condenser) is separate from the furnace and usually in the back yard. When working properly, it blows hot air. It connects to the cooling part of the system by 2 copper lines. One large line and 1 small line. The part that cools the house is the "Evaporator" and is usually on top of the furnace inside the square metal box (Plenum). When the Air Conditioner is running, the large copper line should be cold and the smaller line should be warm. Common signs of low refrigerant are that both lines are the same temperature and/or frost or ice has built up on the large line at the condenser. The thermostat will normally display room temperature on till it is touched to change the setting. It could have a "Span" setting as well as times and temperatures. The operating "span" of MOST residential thermostats is 40 to 90 degrees. That means you can set it as low as 40 degrees and no higher than 90 degrees. It probably has a fan switch also. When in the "ON" position, the fan will run constantly, 24 / 7, but the condenser will still cycle on and off as needed to keep the house at set point. If you have a suggestion to include in this paragraph, please let me know.
I think I have it covered above. Let me know if you need something more specific. Thank you. Roger
Posted on Apr 12, 2011
Those symptoms sound like a contactor - ralay not closing properly or the capacitor. In most situations, I would recommend they both be replaced, since it seems they fail close to each other.
Posted on Jul 26, 2011
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