Question about Whirlpool WED5600XW - 27", 7.4 Cu Ft, He Sensor Dryer, Hamper Door, 8 Cycles, 5 Temps, 14 Custom Options, Accudry, Eco Monitor, Eoc, Wrinkle Shield On/Off/150, Front Mounted Lint Filter, Quiet Pack - Electric Dryer, Color - White
Doesn't drain, hear a clicking noise, smell burnt rubber
The pump could be siezed or blocked. burnt rubber smell from the drive belt. look under the machine and try to turn the pump pulley
Posted on Apr 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like you have a broken motor coupling while your down to the pump check for something jamming the pump here is the procedure First unplug the washer and turn off the water. If you have a shop vac take the drain hose out of the drain,and through the drain hose vacuum the water out of your washer. If you don't have a shop vac go to the auto parts store and buy a pair of radiator hose clamps . Then facing the washer locate the two screws. They will either be in the front or rear of the control panel and back them out far as you can. Once you have done that pull the control panel slightly forward, and tilt it back on the hinges. Now unplug the lid switch wire but don't forget to plug it back when your done. Next locate at the rear of the washer body the two gold clips then push forward, and take careful note of how they fit. Then pop them out with a screw driver tilt the washer body forward at 45 degree angel and walk forward with the body, and set it down. Now you will see the white pump and motor assembly. You should see two clips holding the pump to the motor pop them off, and pull the pump off the motor shaft. Now if you fell the need to remove the pump use the radiator hose clamp. take them and clamp the hose coming from the tub but its not necessary for the repair. Next disconnect the wiring harness from the motor (note the position of the harness for reassembly). Remove the two 5/16 inch screws from the motor clamps and pop the clamps off. Once that is complete, remove the motor put the new coupling on the motor and transmission shaft. I use a socket and a hammer
Posted on Jan 20, 2008
Usually this is due to the tripod mount on the back of the drum cracking. Simply replacing the bearings does not help in most instances. The only true remedy is to replace the drum, along with the front and rear tubs. These are usually covered under warranty but the labor (6-8 hours) is a customer pay unless the unit is very new. Also, it is recommended that you replace the drain pump as well when performing this repair. It is a good idea to get this looked at as soon as possible as more damage can incur. I have seen them vibrate so violently that they break the control boards above the drum. If you give whirlpool an earfull, they may or may not offer some help on the bill.
Posted on Oct 23, 2008
YOUR "DRAIN MOTOR PUMP" is clogged with all that rubber particules, if your handy with tools , you can fix this one , open the washer , locate the MOTOR PUMP , (just follow where the drain hose is connected), remove , inspect and clean all the debris and lints and stuff collected , replaced and youre good to go , AJ
Posted on May 18, 2009
what has happened is that the coupler has not been fully seated on the gearbox shaft, the motor shaft, or both. you should use a socket and hammer to firmly seat the plastic coupling on each shaft. If the coupling is not properly seated, the washer will work, you will get rotation, but there will be constant back pressure on the motor shaft, pushing it against the rear bearing race and the pump at the rear, the added friction causes heat buildup in the motor and sometimes overtemp switch operation. Just solved this tricky problem myself. another clue that the coupler isn't fully flush and seated is the last motor retention strap is very difficult to get on, due to the 1/8-1/4 inch extra length.
Posted on Apr 13, 2010
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