Iana mini rewind crank not spinning when advancing film
Load the film correctly like I have before when it has worked but when you take an exposure and advance the film the rewind crank does not spin. I know that the film has caught because when I take a blank exposure with the back off and advance the film, it rolls round. I am really stuck! Help! :)
Re: iana mini rewind crank not spinning when advancing...
If the film is advancing you do not have a problem. It may be that the rewind button does not actually spin when you advance the film, because if it did and you have something caught on it when you are trying to do so you could really mess things up. Really, the rewind crank may only visibly spin in one direction.
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The magnets that control the shutter are the likely suspect. Dirt and debris can cause them not to hold properly. Hence, it fires the shutter when you advance the film. It is something you can repair yourself. ............or. you can also try....
i'm not an expert on the AE-1. It is a camera I've never had any desire to own. But on most older slr camera the rewind knob will turn when the film is advanced. But only after the slack has been taken out of the film still in the canister. Since you've already taken a few shot the film shot be very secure on the take up spool. To check that it is, slowly crank the film rewind crank clockwise. After a few turns the film should become tight in the canister, and you will feel the tension. If this happens then the film was loaded properly. If after quite a few turns you still feel nothing, then the film was not properly inserted into the take up spoll. If the film was not loaded correctly the film leader will go inside the canister as you crank. But that is not a problem. Any photo lab can pull the leader back out. Just make sure they know what happened.
I'm not sure I see a problem here. There is enough slack in the film that the first few exposures can spool out of the canister without it turning. If in doubt, close the back and then _lightly_ turn the rewind crank to take up the slack. Don't force it, just turn it until you feel resistance. Then advance the film and see whether the rewind knob turns.
A Canon AE-1 is not an EOS camera the Canon "A" series is manual focus while EOS is auto focus. First thought In answer to the advance lever stuck or jammed I'm going to assume the camera is in serviceable condition and has not been subjected to water damage or harsh use. If we are dealing with just the advance lever then I'd say that you have over advanced the film at the last frame. I've done this myself after loading a 24 exposure and thinking I had a 36 exposure film. At the bottom of the camera there is a little pin which releases the advance lever and allows the user to rewind the film. Under normal conditions when it's time to rewind the film into the canister this pin offers little resistance to pushing in to release, however depending on how much force the advance lever has been subjected to increases the tension on this pin. Push the pin in and rewind the film. Second thought is if you have film in the camera and it has not been used fully then it's possible that the film has already been advanced to a new frame and the shutter needs to be activated before the lever will become free and advance to the next frame. Other problems with the Canon "A" series cameras is they have a tendency to dry out the lubrication and begin to squeak when the shutter is fired. This condition can eventually result is a shutter seizure and give the same advance lever condition. Those are the three things that come to mind over this lever problem lets hope it's just run out of film.
The K1000 is all mechanical, the battery only powers the light meter. So even if the battery is dead, then you should still be getting images even if very over or under-exposed.
If the images are totally black on the negatives, then your shutter is stuck open and massively over-exposing your images. If the images are black on the prints, then the negatives have been unexposed and will be totally clear. The latter problem means that the film has not been exposed at all and is either due to incorrect film loading, faulty film winding, or a shutter which fails to open.
To eliminate the possibility of a shutter fault, hold the camera up to the light with the camera back open and fire the shutter at each setting. You should see light as the shutter opens and from 1s to 1/30s should be able to see and hear the difference at each speed.
To check film loading and advancing correctly, load a film and wind film on (remember this camera needs the film leader to be manually engaged onto the take-up spool). Use the rewind crank (do not press the rewind button) to take up the loose film and take a few shots. You should see the rewind crank turn each time you advance the film if it is correctly loaded and advancing. If not, open the camera back and visually inspect the film. It should be securely engaged into the take up spool. With the back still open, advance the film and take a few shots: the take-up spool should be advancing and the sprocket wheel (just before the spool, it's the wheel which engages the holes at the edge of the film) should also be turning. If it isn't, then the film rewind mechanism is faulty and the camera is behaving as if the rewind button has been pressed. It's usually easy to remove the bottom of the camera to check that the button isn't sticking.
If all checks so far are OK then check the film pressure plate on the inside of the film door. It should be able to give a little when pressure is applied and holds the film firmly in contact with the advance sprocket, if not then one of the seating pins on the flat metal spring may have become dislodged and it's usually easy to reseat it. Clean the plate after touching it as it must be grease-free and spotless.
If you try all this and still have a problem then please add a follow up comment and I'll try to respond asap, but bear in mind that as I'm in the UK I may be in a different time zone to you.
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If your film was TOTALLY blank then it's been bleached due to a processing error. By totally blank, I mean that there are no frame numbers or other film markings on your blank film. Otherwise, you simply have an unexposed film.
First, operate the camera with the camera back open, hold the camera up to a bright light and operate the camera as you look into the back of the lens. If you see a brief bit of light coming through as you operate the shutter then the shutter is admitting light into the camera and so you should have got some kind of an image unless you failed to correctly load the film (very common).
Unfortunately, there's no way to tell unless you try another roll of film. Once the film is loaded, turn the rewind crank gently to take up slack film and take a few pictures; each time you advance the film the rewind crank should turn a little. If it doesn't then the film has not been correctly loaded as the film leader has not engaged onto the take-up spool. If so, open the camera and re-engage the film. If it clearly has engaged, then the take-up spool is failing to rotate when the film is advanced: try taking a few shots and winding on the film with the back open. If the film is not advancing then you have a faulty Lomo. This is extremely common as it is a plastic toy camera with atrocious build quality and materials and is the FishEye is only designed for paltry ten rolls of film lifespan.
A final check for film which has not advanced through the camera is if the rewind is extremely short when the film has finished.
You can check the shutter without film in the camera. Remove the lens and open the film door. You will see the cloth curtains of the shutter in the center. Advance the film lever to **** the shutter and set the speed dial to a slower speed like 1/15. Hold the camera so it is aimed a a light source, (a window will do) and fire the shutter. You should see the light through the shutter for the time duration is is set to. (1/15). If you see the light source, repeat the process going up one speed setting until you reach 1/1000. If you see the shutter open and close as described, then try another roll. After you load the film and close the back door, make note of what the rewind knob is doing as you advance the film. It should spin counter-clockwise each time. That is a easy test to know that the film is traveling in the camera properly. Vary your exposures with the new roll at different speeds and f-stops. You should get exposures, but if not let us know.
You may be out of film. If you used too much leader to load the film, the counter would not know to keep up so you would be off a bit. On the rewind side, check to see if there is any slack in the film, If you can turn the rewind 2 or 3 turns then it is not loading error but mechanical problems.
1. Turn the rewind crank gently to take up any slack in the film.
2. Take your first photo. The 3800N has a special lens mask to help this process by blanking out one half or one quarter of the image, on other cameras a thin card mask over the lens achieves the same effect.
3. Hold the camera so that your thumb or finger is firmly on top of the rewind knob to stop it turning, whilst doing this press the rewind button on the base of the camera and then operate the film advance lever. By holding the rewind knob and pressing the rewind button, you allow the shutter to c0ck without advancing the film.
4. Turn the lens mask to cover the portion of the image which was just exposed.
5. Press the shutter using the same exposure value (EV) as previously used. Usually you'll use the same shutter speed and aperture, but by varying them and maintaining the same EV you can get some interesting effects.
6. If you're exposing more than two exposures on one frame then repeat as often as required.
7. Note that this is and always has been a bodge: the film frame often moves slightly between exposures except on a few specific SLRs which had a special multiple exposure setting. The V3800N is advertised as a multi exposure model but has no specific control for it, just the plastic lens mask.