Question about Whirlpool Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating element.one red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element
Posted on Feb 20, 2008
SOURCE: Clothes dryer not heating
I eventually changed the thermal cutoff switch and the high limit thermostat as suggested in one of your replies to another consumer and now the dryer is working fine. Thanks.
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
Check your exhaust ventilation for clogs.
A simple test that you can try is to remove the exhaust duct from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes like you normally would. The air coming out of the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees F).
If the air flow is good, temperature is hot and the clothes dry normally, then you need to inspect your ducting from the point where it leaves the back of your dryer, to where it exits your home. Check for any kinks, bends, sags or anything else that may create a choke point where lint can accumulate. In addition, you should be using semi-rigid aluminum ducting. It is crush and kink resistant, resists heat well and resists rodent intrusion.
If the air leaving the back of the dryer is weak, then you need to check the air blower housing INSIDE the dryer for obstructions.
Leaving a dryer in a clogged condition can actually cause the heating circuits to overheat to the point of failure. Not to mention, this can be a fire hazard.
Lastly, if you replaced the TCO, did you additonally replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat? These two components are mounted on the outside of the heater box and work in conjunction to regulate the heating circuit. It is strongly recommended that if either of these two components go bad, you replace BOTH of them at the same time to prevent premature failure of any components you replace. I've seen it happen on numerous occasions where someone buys the kit, but only replaces one of the two components and later ends up with a non-working dryer again. That is why they are often sold as a kit. You can find the kit at appliancepartspros.com for about $20 (part number AP3094244). Just type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead Parts" heading for item 6.
If you have any questions/comments, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
not being sarcastic, but, your sure you have 240 volts present at the unit? then check door switch heat section control of switch may be bad
Posted on Oct 09, 2009
Hi, If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...
Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...
Gas Dryer not Working Gas Dryer Not Heating
If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...
Dryer Troubleshooting Electric Dryer won t Heat
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
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