I have a weather king 10AJB60A01. The low side started freezing and I disassembled the evaporator and cleaned it with coil cleaner and water pressure, but the problem is that it is not cooling. I put freon in it and the low side started sweating, so I stopped. It showed me a pressure on the low side of 80psi, and in the high side around 250, but in the high side it started increasing and it got to 400, and the unit was cutting off every 10 to 12 minutes. I would like it very much if someone could help me solve this problem. Your help would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Why is the high side pressure so high?
Clean the condenser .or you have managed to put in a lot I mean a lot of noncondenseables (AIR) in the system you need a contractor with recovery equipment and to follow proper evacuation and recharging procedures.. if ya run like this for long you will be buying new equipment.. good luck Tom
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Lets go over the way a sealed system works. There is a highj side and a low side. The low side is the side that passes through the evaporator coils inside the machine. Most times on the freezer side only, but sub zero has independent sealed systems for each side. Once it goes throug the evaporator its then condensed into a liquid state, the high side. This is also the hot side. Well, lower pressures in the low side would logically mean lower temperatures. So for the refridgerator not to freeze more freon is used on it to keep the low side pressure higher than normal, giving the cooling effect verses freezing. So, and here is the bad part, if you are seeing ice build up in the refridgerator side you have a freon leak some where allowing the pressure to be less than required to keep it above freezing. Call a service technician and depending on how the model, sub zero warranty is parts and labor covered for the first 6, and only parts from the 6-12 year.
Sounds like a restriction to me. Recover the charge. Pressurize the system with 350 pounds of nitrogen pressure through the high side. Leave it pressurized for 15 minutes. Release the pressure through the low side. Replace the filter drier again. Pull a 2 hour vacuum on high and low side. Recharge liquid refrigerant on the high side. Let the system sit idle for 30 minutes before starting. Check the evaporator fan motor as well as the coils. Use a good coil cleaner on the e-coil.
low freon charge or your inside evap coils are dirty,,,check yourevap filter and replace if its dirty..also check your evaporater coils to see if its dirty,,,,,,,if its dirty you will need to flush and clean it...with coil cleaner and water......if all is clean and evap has good air flow..........your freon charge might be low......check your pressures hi and low.........hi side should be around 220 to 250 psi and low side should be 68 to 74 depends on the outdoor temp and indoor temps............have a certified hvac tech check the pressures.............
high side line is the small copper line
low side line is the bigger copper line............
The A/C evaporator coil ("A" coil) has closely spaced fins and those fins are easily clogged, which severely restricts airflow for both cooling and heating. Look at the fins on your blower wheel ("squirrel cage") - if they are dirty then so are the fins in the evaporator coil. Access is a pain, sorry. Disassemble and clean from the bottom/inside.
You are being ripped off. The ambient (outdoor) temperature at night is low and therefore proper condensing does not take place causing the refrigerant to pool in the condenser and starving the evaporator. This causes a lower temperature in the evaporator resulting in "freeze up" which is often mistaken for a loss of refrigerant. The proper thing to be done is to block off the condenser air causing the high side pressure to rise until the eqivillant of 110*F condensing temperature. You can also install a low ambient kit which will cycle the compressor off when the temperatures fall
Several possible causes. Knowing the state of refrigerant charge would be helpful. Assuming it has a 'full' charge (full charge 680 Grams = 1.50 Pounds) Most common causes of AC problems:
1. Thermostatic switch (sensor) malfunction in the evaporator - allowing the evaporator to ice up. Check the vent temperature (using a cooking thermometer) to see if the temperature gets near or below freezing (32 Deg F.). If so, the thermostatic switch in the evaporator is defective. Replace it.
2. Refrigerant UNDER-charge. If the temperature does NOT get near freezing, then you need a set of AC gauges to check the compressor head pressure (High side) and the suction (Low side). High side pressure (nominal) is 229 PSI (+ - 20 psi) @ 2000 RPM. Low side (nominal) is around 20 to 40 psi. NOT common problems:
1. The magnetic clutch coil on the compressor... as it heats/warms up, the coil windings could be going 'open" circuit which would turn the compressor 'off.'
2. Compressor inefficiency (worn out).
3. Expansion Valve
4. Clogged Condensor
Possible causes are dirty filters, dirty condenser coil, dirty evaporator coil, or low referigerant charge. Any one of the conditions will affect heat transfer.
Check the filters in your indoor unit, If they seem to be clean and replaced on a regular basis, your evaporator coil is probably in good shape. Unfortunatley on some Weather King models even checking the evaporator coil is not possible due to the extensive amount of referigerent lines that block access to the coil without some major work including evacuating the refrigerant.
The most likely cause is a dirty outdoor condenser coil. On weather king models you will have to remove the casing that surrounds the coil because is is built in such a way that the condenser coil cannot be properly cleaned with the casing in place. Once it is removed make sure breaker is switched off and clean the coil with a water hose.
If your outdoor coil is not dirty then it is a refrigerent problem.