Question about Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE refridgerator
If the unit has an ice maker or water dispensor, etc. there's always a chance a connection is loose or a valve is leaking by. If no other water is hooked up to the refer, then the defrost cycle water that should drain down to the bottom underneath pan is what is likely. You may have to take the inside rear panels off to see if the drain line is plugged up, that would allow water from the defrosting of the coils to drip inside the fridge vice outside like it should.
Posted on Jan 02, 2007
Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator....
Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator: The first thing to do when changing a door gasket is to check and see if you have the proper part before taking the old gasket off. Hold the new gasket up to the fridge door to make sure the gasket is the same size as the old one. Next step is to remove the wrinkles in the gasket caused by folding for shipping. Instructions with the gaskets say to soak the gasket in hot water. Another way is to use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and remove the wrinkles. Be careful not to burn the gasket with the hair dryer. Almost all gaskets in use today are magnetic. I am placing instructions here for the most common one. They have strips of magnetized material inside the gasket material to adhere to the cabinet when the door is closed. Therefore there is sometimes no up or down on the gasket. Some fridge's have magnets on only 3 sides and the side without a magnet is the hinge side gasket. But to be safe, check this before installing. You will certainly want to check for this on older refrigerators that have magnetic door latches. Some of these have no magnets on the latch side of the gasket. There are about three different ways of attaching gaskets. All will be addressed on this page. Remove the food from the shelves on the door. Loosen the screws that hold the metal strips that keep gasket in place on the top half of the door. Back the screws out about 1/4 inch. The gasket has a lip on it that seats in a groove under the top part of the metal strip. Pull the old gasket off. Work the groove on back side of the new gasket under the cutout in the metal strips that holds it on the door liner. Straighten and get good install before tightening screws. Run screws back up against the metal holding strip snugly, not fully tight. Go to the bottom and do the bottom half. By doing the top half first and tightening, then doing the bottom half, you will minimize any warping of the door. If there is warping of the door, we have not yet fully tightened the screws. so you can realign the door easily and then tighten the screws. Check the alignment of the door and be sure the gasket is sealing properly before fully tightening the screws. If the door is warped, (see picture) simply warp it back to a sealing position, then tighten the screws. There are instances where the gasket is too tight on the hinge side, and you may have to shim the door hinges out from the cabinet to keep the gasket from scrubbing when closing. .also use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket on the hinge side will allow the gasket to "settle" better. The hinge side must slide along the cabinet edge while the other 3 sides just close up against the cabinet. The jelly will allow the gasket to rub smoothly and also prevent squeaking noises. Maintenance of the gasket is important also. It should be cleaned on a regular basis. Clean the gasket and the mating cabinet surface with warm soapy water, rinse clean and dry it good. Putting a little baby powder on the sides (except the hinge side because we put the jelly there) will prevent the gasket from sticking and tearing. The heaters in the refrigerator used to keep moisture from forming on the cabinet attracts airborne materials and make the gasket sealing surfaces sticky. The powder will help stop this. Probably 75% of the fridge's made a few years ago use this edge under the metal track....some American made fridge's use the U shaped metal strip and the gasket pushes into the metal strip, (see a picture) the screws that hold this metal strip do not have to be removed or loosened. A lot of fridge's also use the metal strips with out the edge. Some Maytag's and Woods come to mind. The screws go through the metal strip and the gasket as well. The screws have to be removed completely to replace the gasket.
Gasket sheet to assist you in replacing a common door gasket.
Freezer door pops open when I shut the fresh food door:
This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.
I hope this helps, and if you need more information On solutions just let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
SOURCE: Fridge door will not stay shut
Easy... The door alignment adjustment is done at the top hinge. Pull up a step-stool, then remove the hinge cover. Under there you'll see three screws, I think they're 5/16". Loosen these (since your door has dropped, they're probably already loose), then lift up on the door handle to align it with the other door... while keeping the door aligned, tighten the hinge screws (and put alot of torque on 'em to keep 'em from loosening in the future). Now just replace the hinge cover and your done!
Posted on May 26, 2009
This is commonly caused by a worn door seal. Over time, these seals compress to the point where they no longer seal correctly, or food particles and grime get caught between the door and seal and leave small air gaps. The silverware tray (if located along the left or right side) can also cause damage to the door seal as utensils get caught on the seal surface as you roll the lower rack in and out of the tub. As water splashes up against the inner door facing it rolls out the bottom of the door, or down along the sides instead of staying in the tub. The only other items that can contribute to leaking are:
1. A dishwasher that is not level, which causes the door not to seal properly.
2. The inner door panel being warped causing the door facing not to be even for the gasket to seat properly.
3, Dish placement. If you place bowls, serving trays and large tumblers in the front row of the bottom rack on some dishwashers it can contribute to water being deflected over the front edge of the tub and out the bottom of the door (Believe it or not, I've seen it happen).
NOTE: Most dishwashers do not have a seal across the front lip of the tub. That's why it's important to have a good door seal and to load it properly.
If you've loaded the dishwasher properly and confirmed it is level (front to back and side to side), then here are your options:
1. Replace the inner door panel at a cost of about $115.
2. Replace the door seal at a cost of about $35-$40.
Parts can be purchased from any of the following websites:
Use whatever parts source you like, but I have found these to be the cheapest and most reliable sites to order parts from. Shop all of them for the best price.
NOTE: The inner door panel is listed under the Door Parts section. The tub gasket will be listed under the Tub Parts section.
I think I would pursue the cheaper option, first. Its also the much simpler option. To replace the door seal, follow these steps:
1. Pull the old door seal from the groove around the wash tub facing. Take note of which surface area of the gasket is inserted in the groove and which surface is facing the door. It may not seal properly if you install the gasket the wrong way.
2. Clean the area really well to ensure there are no food debris or soap deposits. Also clean the inner door area where the door meets the gasket. You need a clean surface for the best results.
3. Locate the center mark of the new gasket. This will be a small paint spot or small groove on the gasket (this surface is the side of the gasket that will be inserted in the groove around the tub facing). If there is no center mark, fold the gasket in half and mark the location with some chalk, or hold with your fingers.
4. Locate the top center part of the wash tub facing and align the center mark of the door gasket at that point. Begin pushing the gasket into the groove with your hands and work your way around and down along each side.
5. Make sure the gasket is inserted all the way around the tub facing to the point where it meets the wash tub bottom. You can pull the gasket out and readjust as necessary.
This repair should take you about 30 minutes or less to complete. Its simple and requires no tools. The door will be tough the shut for a while until the gasket compresses and takes the door shape. Do not slam the door if it becomes difficult to shut. Simply close the door and the push firmly at the point just above the door latch until the latch clicks. Slamming the door can damage the control panel components, the door latch and/or the hinges. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
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