My water supply pump to house works but does not pump water from tank to house

if the pump is delivering to the hose tap then it is working
there has to be a problem in the plumbing and control arrangement to the house taps for there to be no pressure at the house
possible tap turned off to the house circuit
Is the pump big enough to supply constant pressure /flow to more than one tap
what sort of pressure control unit is there on the pump
what distances and head heights are involved from the water level in the tank to the house taps
Is there water flow from the house taps but not at pressure
the pump should be able to maintain at least 35psi with at least 4 taps running

Your suction line has an air leak, hence no suction , no prime. All fittings have to be perfectly tight and leakfree on intake side.

If you have a switch of some sort to tell the pump the house needs water, look there first.

whats your question how to prime the pump? if so at the bottom is a 3/4 inch plug screwed into it, or at top, once the pump is hooked up to the lines turn off the power, and unscrew the prime plug fill with water, then screw in tight DO NOT USE THREAD SEALANT THEN THROW THE POWER TO THE PUMP, of course house supply valve must be off 3/4 turn valve off until the line is primed then open the supply line to house slowly to supply the water to all the lines, NOTE WHEN YOU FIRST INSTALL A NEW PUMP, HAS TO BE PRIMED, HAVE TO HAVE SUPPLY LINES FROM WELL TO HOUSE CLOSED TO PRESSURE THE TANK AND TO FILL THE LINES.

Close the supply valve to the tank. Open the priming port of the pump, (plug on the upper most part of the casing) pour in water until the pump is filled -up. Close the plug just finger tight. Run the pump. slightly open the plug just to bleed the air with little water. If all water is coming out, the pump motor should cut-off indicating the pump is already primed. Gradually open the supply valve. Pump motor will restart again.

Hi, W/D here.
The tank has to have an air cushion in it for the water to be delivered as water is not compressible. Ideally, the water is expelled from the tank without air leaving the tank, and then the pump starting to refill the tank. The air in the tank is supplied either by an air bladder installed in the tank, or by an air injection system where a little air is injected into the tank every time the pump runs and shuts off.
A little leak at the pump is not a big deal, but should be capped off or the faucet repaired/replaced at your earliest convenience. Ideally, the water level in the tank should be closer to 80%; so if you have an air injection system, you might let a little air out of the tank (if you have a top valve), and this might cure your cycling problem. With the tank level as is, you are probably getting some air in your lines into the house. If you have an air bladder in the tank, the required pressure of the bladder, with no water in the tank should be on a sticker located at the schrader valve on the top of the tank (A schrader valve is similar to the air inlet valve on a bicycle tire). The ones I am familiar with are set around 28-29 psi. If you have an air injection system, it may need to be replaced. If the costs are close, I would elect to go with a bladder tank, as I've found that they eliminate many of the problems associated with the air injection type.
Fix or cap the faucet so you have no leaks showing at the pump or tank. Catch the pump running, and wait for it to shut off. When it does, close the discharge valve to the house and wait. You may need to trip the breaker for the pump. Watch the pressure gauge. If the pressure falls, the problem is with the well, and you may need to pull the inside well supply line from the casing and make repairs at the foot. My experience has been that it is better to replace the leathers, jet valve and foot valve all at once than to hope they hold if I repaired only one part.
If the gauge holds after 10 minutes, open the valve. If the pressure falls, the problem is on the house side of the valve.
Resolve any issues on the well before checking further, as that's where most well problems originate.
Adjust your tank level and pressure. If the pump continues to cycle, you may need to replace your pressure switch.
Best regards, --W/D--

What you need to have a better pressure is the pressure tank plus a water pump.
The size of the pressure tank and pump is depend upon your budget. The bigger size and horse power of pump is much better but quite expensive.

I've advise you to visit your local home depot to look for a better brand of pump and tank and they will assist you regarding on your concern.

pls rate my help.

Thanks for using fixya...

When you hear water running, it is usually in a drain. You probably would have noticed a leaking faucet, so it's probably a toilet. Try shutting off the supply pipe to any toilet you suspect and see if that stops the pump. Then you have to fix the toilet.
I hope this helps. Thanks for using FixYa, and good luck.
Al K

Water source. City...New line..."T" the line so cold water services the house and the other line runs direct to the inlet side of the heater. Make sure you are connecting to the line after it passes through a pressure regulator. If you have a pump and water tank...."T" the line after the tank so cold water services the house and run a line directly to the inlet side of the heater. The outlet side gets connected to the main feed for hot water to the house. These do not require a storage tank. It does take a short period of time to heat the water, but once they get to temp they have an endless supply. Make sure you vent the heater if gas. After you get hot water, you can adjust the temp to the required temp according to the code in your area.