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Defrost not working

I replaced low voltage and high voltage board. No voltage on E6 terminal when forcing defrost. Defrost terminator shows voltage at E5 even when freezer is at room temperature.

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Duggie647
  • 106 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost Problem - evaporator completely frozen

i know i think in the fridge part (atleast on mine) there is a knob for temp.

if that doesnt work i guess you need another defrost terminator

Posted on Dec 13, 2007

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abhishek33
  • 1239 Answers

SOURCE: eaton viking fridge model RF1717

hi The limit switch is found only on frost-free refrigerators and freezers. Its function is to keep the defrost heating element from exceeding certain set temperatures. If a refrigerator has lots of frost in the freezer compartment, the problem may be the limit switch. However, other components -- the evaporator fan, the defrost timer, and the defrost heater -- can cause the same problem. Check these for malfunctions, as detailed below. If these parts are in working condition, the problem is most likely in the limit switch. Don't try to fix the limit switch yourself; call a professional service person for replacement.

Posted on Oct 07, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Viking Condensate Freezes

we had the same problem... we emptied the freezer, turned off the power and left a blow dryer running in the freezer side for about 45 min. the ice line had been frozen, and there was a huge amount of frost buildup. Everything defrosted, drained, and then we refilled and turned it back on. It's working fine now.

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: Need photo of freezer defrost sensor, switch or thermostat

Before replacing all of the components mentioned above, locate your defrost heater and check for continuity with an ohm meter,this will ensure no breaks in heater coil

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Need photo of Defrost Switch or Sensor

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Unit needs to be cold when you test. it closes at around 20 or 30 degrees F and opens around 55 deg F

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

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1 Answer

Freezer fan keeps running & I have frost buildup


Hello Jerry. Your SXS refrigerator has one of 3 possible problems. 1-the defrost timer is bad. 2-the defrost terminator is bad 3-the defrost heater is bad.

Out of the 3, the most probable is the defrost Terminator, p/n 297216600, $12.00 If this goes bad, and many do, then the refrigerator will not be able to initiate a defrost cycle.
The next likely is the Defrost Timer, p/n 215846602, $ 16.00

To test, using a flat blade screwdriver, located the defrost timer, down on the bottom left side of the refrigerator, and turn the timer until a click is heard. stop turning and check for 120vac on the defrost line at the evaporator. it is either a brown or a pink wire. If you have a non-contact voltage detector, just probe around for voltage. If you have voltage, then you need to replace the defrost terminator. if you have no voltage, replace the defrost timer.

The last possible is the defrost heater. this should ohm out at or around 15k ohms. But in reality, anything other than an open circuit is ok.

Timer, terminator first !

Apr 10, 2014 | Frigidaire FRS20ZSG

1 Answer

During heat cycle the entire heat pump frosts up and won't go into defrost cycle.


some unit you need to jump the defrost tstat also.then it would be the control

Nov 26, 2012 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore 25376879506. Evaporator is freezing up causing poor cooling to the refrigerator.


voltage=120vac,resistance= appx. 20-40 ohms as every defrost heating element has some different ohms, as long as its close to this youll be o.k. make sure to check the defrost terminator in series,and check it when its cold or it will read open,also,if the voltage isnt at 120vac on the element or shows low its because the terminator is open,and your showing a "ghost" voltage,also if no voltage anywhere in these areas it can be the defrost timer or A.D.C. thats bad

Feb 17, 2012 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

3 Answers

My westinghouse refrigerator model bj505 does not defrost. I have checked the heater element for continuity with a multimeter and replaced the terminator with a new one. I connected the terminator to one...


HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary form unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will eb the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

Dec 27, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

How to test defrost timer circuit board


Good day,
With the machine running at least 6 hours, unplug. Wait for a period in excess, of 30 seconds.
Then turn the thermostat off.
Plug in.
This should place it into the defrost mode, turning the main heater in the freezer on, if...........
The defrost thermostat (terminator) mounted on the top of the evaporator coil coil is good. If the terminator is bad, the test will fail.
If your problem is the coil is frosting up, This machine is made by Whirlpool.
The board and terminator, have a fairly high failure rate. In fact, whirlpool has substituted a timer for the board on many of these models.
The price of both, is low enough, that replacing both makes sense.

Dec 03, 2009 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

2 Answers

KitchenAid KSRS25QXAL10 Side-by-Side (1992) won't defrost


HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary from unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

TESTING YOUR DEFROST TIMER MODULE


To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically. Test the timer for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the white wire in the connector plug.

Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it should be replaced.

Nov 19, 2009 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

1 Answer

New unit just quit no compressor, no fan, breaker not trip, blower unit working fine


Remove the access cover from the outside unit. Find the contactor. It is the part that has the high voltage incoming wires attached. There is a button/bar in the center of the contactor. Use a insulated screwdriver or a wood pencil and push the bar in. If the unit starts you will have to trace the low voltage circuit from the thermostat and air handler to the outside. 24 volts should be present at the low voltage contactor terminals via the defrost board. If you have 24 volts to the defrost board,turn off the outside power, remove the red low voltage wire from the defrost board then reattach it. The board may be tripped on a low voltage fault.
Report back here with your result.

Oct 18, 2009 | Carrier 38BRC036 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Coils keep icing


If the evaporator coils are frosting up completely, you have a problem in your defrost system (heater, terminator or control).
If your product was built before May 2003 (last two letters of serial number CJ or before) you jump L-1 terminal (red wire) and test terminal (no wire in connector) with the blade of a screwdriver, using caution to avoid contact with the screwdriver blade.

If your unit was built after June 2003 (CL or later), turn the cold control all the way off, then all the way on 3 times in 6 seconds leaving it in the on position.

Those are the methods for forcing the adaptive control board into the defrost cycle. If the unit goes into defrost and stays in defrost, replace the control. If it comes right out of defrost, you have a bad heater or terminator. On your model both the heater and terminator come as a complete assembly.

The only other option would be a loose wire in the circuit.

May 02, 2009 | Maytag MSD2756GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

Ge rifrig will not defrost


you have a defrost issue not being able to verify circuits on the mother board i would replace the high limit, what you are calling the termination stat this stat stays closed unless the temp hits 140, thats right 140 degrees f and change the evaperator sensor.
evap sensor can cause missed defrosts or no defrosts
high limit part number wr50x10068
sensor number is wr55x10025
each part is 7-15 dollars each

Apr 07, 2008 | GE GSS20IEP Side by Side Refrigerator

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