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Slideout will not go out/activate switch, just a clicking sound down under

Something electrical? panel board? fuses good

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1201 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 jimmy not starting

You can try this==== take a screw driver and tap on the relay switch with the handle while somebody is turning the ignition. This is only a test, not a definate solution. If you haven't already, check the starter solonoid. My opinion, if the ignition was bad, it wouldn't even click at the relay, but without testing it's hard to say.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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leehumphreys
  • 38 Answers

SOURCE: window stop working

the clicking u can hear is the relay for the window clicking, so i would say thats working, but u can also check with a multi meter, could also be the motor for the window, check all your fuses as it could be that also if its blown a fuse there is ur answer. and clean the window switch.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: clicking noise under dash

Nah, no msjor wire storms. If your lights are flashing, then I doubt its the flasher. It is more than likely your ABS system cycling. hAVE YOUR WHEEL SENSORS CK'D / ADJUSTED FIRST. gOOD lUCK.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

buffalonyman
  • 1865 Answers

SOURCE: Worn wiring under my pop up's slideout

$1,000.00 is ridiculous. The wiring is likely color coded. You simply purchase insulated automotive wire and insulated barrel type crimp-on lugs. Cut out the damaged wire, and replace it with the new wire.

I provide a DIY service for $39 on my website. www.taeckertindustries.com

I provide email communication to help people do their own repairs or installations

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: driver window won't go down. All other windows

It's probably the switch itself and needs to be replaced.

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

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The right hand corner of my fuse box under the hood has no power tested using test lite checked fuses what do I do it's on 2001 grandam GT with 3400 engine


What powers that side of the fuse box ? Do you know ? Do you know what a power distribution diagram is ? You need to look at a diagram to see where those fuse's get there power ! Could be only powered when the ignition switch is on ! Suggest you view wiring diagrams . Do you know how to do electrical testing ? With a volt meter . Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know

The Trainer 32 How To Read An Automotive Block Wiring Diagram

View wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html

Enter vehicle info year , make , model and engine size . Under system click on electrical distribution , under subsystem click on power distribution . Click the search button , then click on the blue link. Look at the second diagram down . You'll see a IGN SW - BATT 2 30 amp fuse powers the ignition switch .In the on position the ignition switch powers the under hood fuse box . are you testing with the key on ? You also have a right instrument panel an a left instrument panel fuse box , do you know about these ? What is your main problem ? No start ?

Mar 30, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My slideout doesn't move, battery is new, changed inline fuse at battery, all other electrical seems to work


there is a momentary three way two pole rocker switch used to activate the linier motors that move the slide out. the most commin problem is they use a switch that dosen't have a high enough amp rating and the contacts burn out quickly. it is very importent to release the switch immediatly after the slide stops motion going in or out or these switches burn out very fast.

Jan 07, 2015 | Keystone 2009 Cougar Xlite 26BHS

1 Answer

Main Slideout not working


Not sure what kind of trailer you have, but the fuses should be behind a metal cover - for mine, its located under the refrigerator. When you open it, you will see all of the fuses. Hopefully, they are labeled, but don't bet on it. Use a meter to check the fuses - put the meter tip on each side of the fuse, with the meter on volts. If you read 12 - 14 volts, the fuse is blown. A good fuse will not show any voltage.

If you can't find the fuse box, when you have the camper plugged into AC, turn on all the lights - the fan that cools the inverter should come on - follow that sound and you will find the fuses. Good Luck

Jan 06, 2014 | Holiday Rambler RVs

1 Answer

No power after self cleaning


Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

Dec 14, 2013 | LG LWD3081ST Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

I have a Bosch Nexxt Dryer 800 series when you try to turn it on, it just makes a click sound, but won't turn on. Any ideas about what's wrong. Thanks Marge


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.
Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.
Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

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Sep 28, 2012 | Bosch Nexxt 800 Dryer

1 Answer

Have an electrical issue battery voltage at 12.44v but when fuse left second from top is replaced voltage falls to 4.11v When this fuse is in taco etc clicking even though ignition is off.


I'm at a loss to tell you very much since you didn't tell me what year and model bike you're working on. But, you said that something was clicking even with the ignition off. This sounds like a circuit breaker activating. This is why your voltage is dropping. You have a short somewhere. Your meter reads 12 volts when the circuit breaker is "broken". Then when the circuit breaker resets, the short pulls the voltage down to 4 volts until the breaker again trips. This really sounds like the main circuit breaker under the dash of a Softail to me. Investigate where the clicking is coming from and you'll probably find a small metal device with two screws on it. Feel of it and if it is what's clicking trace to where those wires are going.

Good Luck
Steve

Apr 10, 2011 | Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport...

1 Answer

2007 Ford Expedition has a clicking noise in the interior of the car while not running or running. It is a rythmic click click, click click.


This is not good. Relays and circuit interruptors work differently than fuses. Each will interrupt a connection and can reset, over and over, rythmically. It means something is stuck in an ON position. It also means a part is heating up and a part is trying to drain your Battery. (Make sure it is not the clock ticking)

First, if you have a quiet garage try opening your Drivers door and keep it open. There are 2 relays in the Drivers door because of the
extra AUTO down relay. You will be able to crouch down between the door and the seat of your car. You should be able to hear the clicks to eliminate the door as a problem.

Open the hood and go to the Black boxes. Is the clicking louder under the Hood? If it is, open the cover over the Black boxes and feel the tops of the relays to find the active one and remove it. Now what does not work is the grounded circuit.

If the noise is still louder in the interior, look under the dash for a Fuse panel. Feel the Fuses and Relays for vibration to match the clicking. Pull out the clicking part. What does not work is the bad circuit. Still no Luck? Find your Air Suspension cutoff switch. It may be behind a panel in the rear cargo area or under a Foot kickpanel under the dash. Turn it off. See if noise stops.

Would be interested to know the outcome, Thanks

Jul 22, 2010 | 2007 Ford Expedition EL XLT

2 Answers

Brake light wont light up when brake pedal is pressed


Sounds like a brake lamp switch or fuse. Check all fuses electrically, with a test probe you can purchase from any auto parts store. Go through each fuse with the probe touching the end or tip of the fuse after clipping the lead on the probe to a good ground. If the probe lights up at both ends of the fuse, the fuse is sound, if it only lights up at one end then replace that fuse and if the probe does not light up at all, that fuse is not active so turn on the ignition but dont start the motor. The brake lamp switch is attached to the brake pedal. It may have a single wire or several. All the switch does is connect the brake lamp circuit to an active supply rail so, The switch should have one active wire and the other wire should become active when the pedal is pressed. If it does not, replace the switch. If it does, then you may have two blown bulbs in the rear lamps or a damaged wiring harness to the rear lamps and you should seek the advice of a qualified person. Start with the fuses, then the switch, then the bulbs..and remember, you may have more then one fuse panel in the vehicle so check under the hood too..

Apr 24, 2010 | 1993 Lincoln Town Car

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