Question about Audio Players & Recorders
Posted by Anonymous on
More likely a defective Electrolytic capacitor due to age. These things are not new. If lightening damaged it there would be large area of carbon black arcing. This usually happens to telephone or TV with antenna type units not a tape deck.
Posted on Jan 02, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Thanks for using FixYa, a FixYa rating is a great reward for locating this part for you. Good luck with the repairs, and happy listening.
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
This could be a head fault? Another possibilty is the preamp stage. You will need to look for something that would take out both channels. Such as an IC.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
It is possible that the main line in the power supply must be checked first for any leaks . Use a good multimeter to check for the resistance shorting to the ground. If there is neglible reading then disconnect the DC section and start from the power supply side. check from the supply wire, the capacitor, the transformer, motor and any foreign material that could create a short. Connect the line and use a good line tester to check for the voltage and disconnect one by one the sections until the line leak is found. Then probe into the section last disconnected to confirm and correct. I am sure this will not be difficult to solve. Good day
Posted on Aug 10, 2010
Just a guess. Have you cleaned the two conductors on the sensor? You can test its function by running the tape in either direction and shorting it with a non-ferrous metallic object, say, an aluminum. You don't want anything magnetic near your prerecorded tapes.
Posted on Jan 04, 2011
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In most cases, if the main power supply fails, the low
voltage supply that provides enough power so the set can receive input from
your remote, also lives on to signal problems, often by flashing the power LED
in a pattern.
In your case, apparently the low voltage supply is also
This can be caused by both supplies being damaged from a
line surge caused by 'dirty' AC power, or a spike from a lightning strike
somewhere in your power network.
These spikes can travel long distance so a strike need not be
all that proximate to do damage.
If no fuse holder is found on the back of the set, it may be
necessary to remove the back panel for access.
If you choose to do this, it is safer to leave the set
unplugged overnight to allow any hazardous voltages to discharge.
Look for a separate board or an area which has larger
components in it.
These will be cylindrical cases and larger block-like parts.
If there is a user-replaceable fuse in the set at all, it
will most likely be in that area.
If this damage was caused by a high voltage spike replacing
the fuse may be fruitless and if a replaced fuse blows again, then other
circuits have been damaged and major boards will have to be replaced as well.
The cost of reviving a lightning damaged set of any kind can
often exceed the cost of replacing the whole set.
Even the most primitive plug strip contains components that
afford some protection against this kind of damage but the best protection can
be had with a 'whole house' surge suppressor.
These cost ~$200 US and feature insurance against appliance
losses up to $10,000.
They require access to the main breaker box, safety precautions and a few tools for installation.
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