Question about Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load Washer
During wash cycle, lid is opened and washer stops and message on panel reads UL.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the washer won't finish a spin cycle, it probably means that your timer went bad or stalled. You can take the control panel off and look at the contacts for scorching or corrosion.
Posted on Sep 21, 2008
Ok folks to change the lid switch on these and many top loading Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, etc is quite easy.
Steps to replace the lid switch:
1. Remove unit from AC.
2. Remove the loading door from the unit, or using some duct tape tape it closed.
3. Using a small flat bladed screwdriver find the 2 release catches on the front of the unit between the top cover and front panel. These are just snap claps to hold the top cover down. To release the top you will need to compress the latch using the screwdriver. Start with one side, then the other. Once you have released both clips the lid will lift up just like the hood of your car.
4. You will now be able to remove the lid switch from the unit.
5. Install the new switch and close the hood of the unit.
6. Test the repair by running the unit though a complete cycle.
A great place to order the replacement part for the unit is:
They ship same day on orders placed before 3pm EST. Overnight shipping is available, however I usually opt for the 2-3 day ground shipping and save the money.
If this switch replacement does not take care of the problem, you might need to replace the control board located under the front panel. This replacement is also very easy and takes about 10 min from start to finish.
Hope this helps everyone. Cheers,
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
SOURCE: error message on WTW6200sw
Called Whirlpool to report the F1 problem on my over 2 year old, out of warranty, Cabrio washer. I was told that a repairman would be over and that I was responsible for the service call, parts and labor. Then later, I read on this site about this washer having a service recall that corrects the "Machine Control Assy" failure that causes the F1 code. I called back Whirlpool asking why they never said anything about it when I called earlier. This customer service rep said there was a recall which was stopped (he did not know why) but he would extend my warranty (at no charge) for an additional 3 months starting today which will cover all the repair charges.
I asked of the repairman when he came, if he was aware that Whirlpool was covering all parts, labor and service call. He said “yes”, prceeded to check the machine and confirmed that it needed a “Control Assy”. He ordered the part from my home (which was delivered to me) and made an appointment to return the following week to install, which he did.
The machine is now up and running and thanks to contributors to this board, I became aware of Whirlpool taking responsibility for this part failure.
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
SOURCE: UL Code
Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust? The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles. Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around. Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load. That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
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