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Lrbn20510ww not cooling

Neither section cooling / refrig section seemed to cool first / compressor runs about 20 seconds then quits

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Master_Tech
  • 770 Answers

SOURCE: not cooling

The clicking you are hearing is your overload on your start system sounds like your compresser start ststem is out..or your compresser is locked up the only way to tell is to ohm out the compresser idf you dont have a meter you can install a start kit like a Supco Pro41 or a RCO410 or a factory replacement and see if it starts up the compresser.. Have you cleaned the condenser at all ??? although this will not fix the compresser it can be a cause of overheating..The part Number you need is a 2188831 for the factory replacemenet ($22.56)the supco parts part number SU RCO410 ($15.00) the Pro41 is part #
SU PRO41 ($17.97) you can get them at your local parts house they are all easy to change or if you dont have a parts house close you can oder it on the web at www.apdepot.com Hope this fixes ya

Posted on Feb 17, 2008

  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: Every 2 mins the compressor tries to go on and after 15 seconds stops.

If the compressor tries to go on every two minutes, then the relay is functioning.

1. If the compressor has failed, it might be getting hot and tripping the thermal overload to shut itself down. It will cycle like you say and will be unable to cool the fridge.

2.It's also possible that you have lost refrigerant from the system. When the compressor goes on, the pressure drops below a threshold value. The system sees that there is not enough pressure, and shuts down. Once the pressure rebuilds, it tries again.

3. If the fins in the rear of the fridge are clogged with dust/debris, the system will not be efficient enough to cool. I doubt this is the case as the compressor would generally just stay on for a long time... longer than 2 minutes.

Try turning the thermostat to the coldest setting possible for both the fridge and the freezer. If the unit still cycles off after 2 minutes, consider repair.

Posted on Mar 14, 2008

  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: Sears Kenmore 53652300, doesn't cool

This usually indicates that the compressor is working too hard and drawing too much current. The click that you hear is a safety shut-off. Possible causes of this are numerous and usually require having a professional come in to fix the issue, it can range anywhere from a faulty compressor to a bad start relay.

There is in most cases a temporary fix, it is called a hard start relay/capacitor. It is usually available from an appliance parts retailer for around $15 to $20. Installation instructions are included, just be sure to unplug your refrigerator first and make sure that someone following you can repair from where you left off. This relay assembly can normally get you up and running but it should not be used as a permanent fix. This will not correct for a refrigerant leak in the system.

Check your refrigerator owners manual before making any repairs or modifications to your refrigerator, there may be an extended warranty on the sealed system and compressor.

Posted on Aug 01, 2008

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: not cooling, compressor kicks in for 3 seconds then back out

No the PTC relay on the compressor is bad. Need to replace it.

First be sure to unplug frig. Remove the cardboard cover that covers most backs of the frig units. Remove the plastic cover that is on the side of compressor. It is held on with a metal clip. Now you should be able to see the relay pry the relay straight off. note the wiring and position of relay. Only three prongs on compressor. Go to a parts house for appliance's and with your make and model number should be able to get a new one. Let me know if you need any more help. ken

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: My GE refrigerator GDS18LBPWW with freezer on

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.



The ideal temp for the freezer is around 10 degrees F.
Look at the evaporator coils behind the rear cover inside the freezer and check the ice forming on the coils.

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} . Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM

Posted on Dec 29, 2009

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