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Re: no ignition, something draining the battery till its...
Hi I\'m Peter, I hate to say it but it sounds like you are in a bit of work. This can be a nightmare that makes some mechanics run. First of all you realize you have a short to ground somewhere and the bad thing is we don\'t know where. What you need to do first is lets start looking for something that sticks out a wire that\'s hot a relay, etc that is hotter than normal or maybe discolored from heat. Maybe use the old sniffer and cruise around smelling all over the car. Get a case of beer and invite the friends over heck make it fun if you can who knows the friend that you may want to kill every other day may actually have a great nose and smell something no one else does. A little joke but a little serious too. Some people are more sensitive to smells than others. If nothing out of the ordinary has been found here comes the pain in the butt part. Go to your fuse box or boxes if you have one in the vehicle and the engine compartment and one at a time you need to pull the fusses and determine which is the supply side and which is the other. Of course you will have voltage on the supply side but if you have voltage on the other side and there is no fuse there then you need to get a schematic and trace that wire you have a short to that wire. You can also looking at the wiring schematic determine where all of your grounds are. Disconnect them one at a time and test them if you have voltage then trace it back till you find where it is getting voltage from and there is your short. Don\'t get discouraged if you pay a shop they will usually charge you by the hour on this type of electrical job and they may have a minimum of hours or ask you at how many hours do you want them to stop if they have not found the problem and hope you have an honest shop because they could say ok we tried for three hours and haven\'t found it that will be $95.00 an hour for 3 hours please. Out almost 300.00 dollars and no closer. Last desperation and I hate to even mention it because it sounds like a cop out is to put a battery cut off switch on your vehicle but then every time you want to start the car you have to turn it on then when you shut the engine off you have to turn the switch to disconnect. That\'s a poor man\'s fix Remember this could be anywhere , one time when I was working in Colorado at the airport I had a fleet vehicle that was hardly used and a field mouse had crawled up behind the dash and chewed the insulation off a hot wire and it was touching the metal frame of the dash. Sneaky little guy but I found it and fixed it because I realized my whole dad gum dash had power and every time I touched a ground anywhere to a metal screw or part of the dash it would spark.. It could be in the solenoid for the starter, a relay switch that has stuck, anything so eat it like an elephant one bite at a time and try to narrow it down to a particular circuit then go from there.
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That means that you have a parasitic drain, that can be caused by a short or by a defective device.
First try to understand if there is a parasitic drain.
Once you exclude the drain, replace the battery, a battery with shorted cells can cause the drain.
measure drainage remove ignition key, connect the amp meter between the
battery positive wire connector and positive terminal.A couple of
milliamps drainage is normal, and is caused by instruments, car stereo
memory, ECU etc.
Start removing more fuses , and open the wiring at different points , trying to locate the problem.
Remove the fuses and see if you have drain by
connecting a meter to
read amps on battery, if you have drain with no fuse, then the problem
is insulated to wiring harness before the fuse, with something shorted
between the battery and the fuseblock.
Also check car stereo and car amp HU, the HU can keep a unit on when the ignition key is off, causing drainage.
There isn't any electronics on this 1969 truck , so can't blame it on that. I worked at a Chevy dealer ship back in the Early to mid 80's an saw this problem more then a few times. I remember glove boxes stuffed so full that the light stayed on and drained the battery over night. The vehicle wouldn't start next day an they had it towed to the dealer. I have found bad diodes in the alternator cause this problem. I post a YouTube video for you , beside my test procedure ! To test for parasitic drain on the battery you have to put an amp meter in series on the negative battery cable. This vehicle shouldn't have any drain, yours apparently does are the battery wouldn't go dead. With the meter hooked up start pulling fuses till the meter shows no more drain. How to Find Parasitic Battery Drain If after you pull all the fuses an the drain is still there , disconnect the wire on the back of the alternator and see if that makes a difference ! hope this helps
I can't imagine how changing the belt would have any effect on the electrical system if the alternator is working. The way you check for a drain is to disconnect the battery ground cable and use a test light to make the connection between the battery and ground. If there is something drawing power from the battery the light will glow. Then you pull each fuse from the fuse boxes until the light goes out. You also disconnect the starter and alternator if necessary.
get the alternator checked sounds like its not giving enough charge to keep it at 12v if not car could have a short which is making the battery flat i fitted a car stereo to my 1994 c180 merc to a constant live and my battery whent flat after a few days when i put it onto the ignition so there was no voltage when ignition of it was ok after that
leaving the radio on all night would not cause the battery to drain away like this providing its a good one .try disconnecting the battery overnight and see if it still drains as sometimes a battery can drain flat on its own which is caused by sulphation across the internal plates in the cells ,then if if it starts the next moring the battery is ok ,so next is to discoinnect the alternator large terminal off the alternator and try that and if it starts the following day renew the alternator as a rectifying diode is down running battery flat ,if still a proble then out comes the tester to look for a relay that has the contacts stuck together or the favourite boot light but this is a pick up truck so i would suspect the alternator
CHECK ALTERNATOR OUT PUT SHOULD BE 13.5 VOLTS TO 14.5 VOLTS.IF NOT ALTERNATOR IS NOT CHARGING BATTERY.CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND CHECK ALTERNATOR POSITIVE FEED WIRE AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES.IF ALL IS GOOD ALTERNATOR NEED TESTING AND REPLACED.IF ALTERNATOR GOOD BATTERY CABLES COULD BE OLD CAUSING POOR GROUND AND HIGH RESISTANCE IN POSITIVE CIRCUIT. STARTER SOLENOID FAULTY IF NOT BEEN REPLACED.
Hi There. One possible approach would be, with the ignition off, remove the fuses one at a time and place a multimeter, set up to measure current, across the fuse terminals. If you do not have a multimeter, a low wattage bulb (5W) with wire attached may work. Some equipment like the stereo will use a few millamps but any significant current draw will identify the circuit responsible. Then use the manual to find which equipment is fed from that fuse or see what equipment does not work with the fuse removed. Mechanical relays can stick causing current drain problems. I wouldn't think there is a direct short because this would blow the fuse in the circuit. The alternator itself can drain a battery if the rectifier starts to break down. As it is difficult to measure current going through the alternator, you could measure the battery voltage while the alternator plug is removed. A small increase in voltage (maybe less than 1 volt) occuring at the same time as the plug removal would suggest current draining through the alternator. The voltage measuring technique can be used for the fuse removal if you prefer. Hope this helps. Good luck!