Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
You can check down by the compressor however I don\'t think just cleaning the dust bunnies would trip a breaker. May sound stupid but I\'m married so I do stupid. Hook a small appliance to the outlet where you had it plugged in. There is a slight chance , and I am hoping you did unplug it before sticking your hands in there that the contacts in the outlet could be bad and or the wire that is screwed to the out let ( remove the cover be careful due to possible high voltage) that over the years the screw has loosened up and is not making a good connection. I HAVE seen this a lot especially if you have aluminum wiring as it is known for that and you have to every once in a while go through and tighten all connection or you could just pay an electrician to rewire the whole house with modern wiring. Also if you have no voltage check your breaker box to see if the breaker tripped there. The greatest power draw on a cooling device . motor, etc. is the start up that is when most power is needed. I have actually had two yes two fridges die on me until I found out that the lady we bought the house from had experienced the same problem and moved her fridge to a different outlet. Turns out the screw that holds the wire on was loose so there was a loss of amperage and that is really hard on a compressor or motor , relay or anything else is to starve it of power. It will destroy them over time. If you tilted the fridge or laid it on it\'s side ( never ever do) and if you do then I think the recommended time to let it set for the compressor to even out the Freon so it won\'t load up and shut down is 24 hours. If you notice on all fridges shipping boxes it says this side up. You could always try tapping softly with a small hammer or wrench on the compressor incase it\'s stuck. Then it could be the starter relay for the compressor also which is a set up including capacitors so wach out HIGH VOLTAGE is stored in capacitors even though the power is turned off. Good luck
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like you have a clogged defrost drain tube. removing back panel of freezer will give you access to drain trough, melt away the ice with a hair dryer, youll find a drain hole under there somewhere,pouring boiling water down the drain will clear it pretty quickly( i use a steam machine purchased from the infomercials works awesome, after you clear it and all water drain down tube wrap a piece of solid copper wire around the heater( black heater right above the drain trough) and stick it in the whole maybe an inch or so. now every time the heater comes on to defrost it will prevent the hole from freezing over
Posted on Mar 15, 2008
Tom, I would start with the overload and relay that is on the compressor, If it is white it's a good possibility that it has failed. The fact that both sides are not cooling leaves me to believe the compressor is not operating. Take the overload and relay off. If they are both contained in a white cover shake it. If it rattles, I believe that is your problem. Let me know what you find...Catriver.
Posted on Jun 28, 2008
A refrig cannot pull 40 amps in defrost , unless there is a direct short in the defrost system ( timer , heater , bimetal ) . I would use an extention cord ( for test purposes only ) , and try a different plug . Sounds like the circuit breaker is weak . In defrost , the MOST you should get , is 6 amps . This will not throw a 40 amp breaker . If you have an amp meter , remove the back refrig panel behind the refrig , and connect to one of the power cord lines (just not the green ground ) , turn into defrost and check the amps . This will tell you if short is in refrig , or weak breaker .
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
You have a bad overload/relay . This is the piece pluged onto the side of the compressor , with 2 or 3 wires going to it . The part number is 8201786 . It is easily replaceable and instructions come with it . Price is around $60.00 .
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
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