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3 Pole light switch won't turn on

I installed an Adorne Legrand Paddle switch in one of the two light switches. All 3 wires have been connected, but the light will not come one. Even the other light switch that has not been replaced will turn on the light. What could be causing the problem?

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  • 27 Answers

Verify your wiring on the switch to make sure that you stripped them to the correct length and that they are fully inserted and tightened down. Also check that you put the correct wire in the correct terminal. The terminal marked HOT will have the either the 120 volt power coming from the breaker or the 120 volt switch leg going to the light fixture, depending on which of your 3-way switches is fed from the breaker. The terminals marked 1-pole and 3-way should have your traveler wires connected to them. Check the switch that you did not replace to see which two wires were used as the travelers, they will be the ones on the screws of the same color. The odd colored screw is the hot or switch leg, depending on which end of the circuit it is on (on the breaker side, it is the hot wire, on the light fixture side of the circuit, it is the switch leg.)

Posted on Apr 25, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Leviton Single Pole Switch with Pilot Light Model 277W Box

Depends on whether you want the pilot to glow when the circuit is live (the main light is on) or to glow when the circuit is off. (The switch can be used either way, and I have used this switch in both configurations at different places.)

The wiring diagram is on the inside of the box.

In indicates that if you want the pilot light to glow when the circuit is off, then you only need two wires (the live and the return, usually colored black and white, respectively). However, you also need a ground. The instructions say that you need the ground for safety (and probably legal code) reasons, but I suspect that, without the ground, the pilot light won't work in this configuration.

However, if you want the pilot light to glow when the circuit is on, you probably need a three wire configuration (plus the ground).

Hope this helps.


Posted on May 05, 2009

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: Wiring Bathroom light/vent/heater switch with 3 separate controls

Wiring a bathroom combination vent, heater, light 3 way switch means more wires. In brief, you need to run two cables - one a two wire and one a three wire from the switch to the fan.

Incoming power will have white black and ground.

The two wire cable for the switch to the fan will have wht, blk, and ground.

The three wire will have red, blk, wht, and grnd.

The switch will likely have 2 blacks and a red coming from it, with two blacks and a red on one side, and a single black on the other.

The fan should have a red, blue, green, black, and white.

On the fan end: Group all green/copper grounds together and use a wire nut to fasten them together. Tape the nut to the wires.
There will be five white wires coming through. For ease of handling, using wire nuts, connect two on one nut and three on the other.
connect the blue to a blck. Connect one red to one black, and the other red to the other black.

The switch will have one red going into the 3 wire cable, a black going to the 3 wire cable, and a black form incoming power to the side opposite the 3 wires, and a blck going to the two wire cable.

There. Confused?

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • 864 Answers

SOURCE: how to wire 3 switches in a 3 gang box

WARNING: Do not attempt to do this work unless you completely understand the information provided below. If in doubt call an electrician.
Always make sure the power is disconnected from all possible sources before making any connections. Your description of the problem indicates that there may be multiple power wires coming into the same box. In that case local codes may require that the box be partitioned to prevent exposure to voltages up to 220 volts.
You need to determine where each wire goes to know how to connect them together. You cannot rely on color alone. If the power supply runs through the box to the loads then most (but probably not all) of the white wires will be connected together. If the power runs to the load boxes first then none of the white wires in the switch box should be connected together. They are used to run the switched/dimmed power back to the loads (and should be taped to cover the white in the box). In that case each switch has its own power input and they should not be tied together. A wire (could be black or white with black tape) brings power from the load box, gets connected to the input terminal of the switch and the corresponding black wire carries the switched power back to the load. The fan/light switch will have one power in and a switched power out for the fan and another for the light. The 3-way will have one "power" in (or it could be the final power out to the light) and two "carrier wires that connect to the other 3-way switch. If the power supply goes through the switch box then there will be at least 10 wires in that box. In that case see the attached diagram: a5fa64a.gif

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: how to wire a cooper industries 6107 3-way motion detector switch

I opened the box and traced the lines to see which are connected
when the switch is turned on and I left the red wire disconnected.

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

  • 10917 Answers

SOURCE: I'm using a Leviton 1755 combo 3 switch for a bath

remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

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1 Answer

Legrand adorne paddle 3 pole switch won't turn on


You need to have 2 two way switches in a circuit like that. If you dont have them in each place then it will not work. If you did have a two way in each spot then when you put the new switch in, there is a chance that you wired it wrong. How many wires are in that box that you put the switch in?

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I have replaced Decora dimmers with the Adorne dimmers not the lighting is emmiting a high frequency noise in the mid dimming range. The lighting is 20/35 watt halogen lamps. Why and how can I fix this?


They design dimmers for either incondescent lighting or fan motor controls. Always check which one you purchased. You can't use the motor control dimmer on lighting and vice versa. Even if you purchased the correct dimmer remember that it is for incondescent lighting only (ordinary light bulb). Incondescent lights have a resistance whereas fluorescent has a capacitance and an inductance. Halogen lamps may have a capacitance and an induction too and are creating havoc with the mosfet transistor inside the dimmer. This can also cause the dimmer to fail. Read the instructions on the dimmer to see what type of lighting is allowed.

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I am trying to install a Pass & Seymour Harmony fan speed control switch. It has 2 red wires and 1 black. I hooked up the power to the red line and the black leading to the wiring for the fan. No...


Are you wiring for 3-way or single pole?
In other words, are you using 1 switch (single-pole) or 2 switches (3-way)
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Pass-and-seymour-3-way-3-speed-fan-control.pdf

Before installing device, separate all wires in box and turn power on and then test each wire to bare ground wire >> tester will light up on Hot power source.
Black wire on device is connected to Hot power source.
Red wire on same side of device as black wire is capped off in single pole application.
Red wire on other side of device from black wire goes to the fan motor.
Green wire is ground.

Set fan on highest speed before connecting red wire to fan, and then do not adjust fan speed using pull chain.

I am unsure what volt-amp-testing will show for power output on either red wire, but certainly it will vary as the switch is adjusted to each speed.

Call 800-223-4185 for Legrand tech support.

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make sure you are hooking up the correct color wires to it main wire on top of switch, bottom wire of switch other color wire they should be blackor any other color , just dont hook up the white wire to it this will make your breaker pop , If your copper is touching any metal this will make it pop also,good luck

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Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
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Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
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White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
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I want to use a TM8111 swithch to control 3 devices. A ceiling fan/light combo, night light and a vanity light. How do I hook it up?


Following image has basic wiring plan.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg

Each Load (light-or-fan) has to have separate wire running to switch box.
If night light is plugged into wall outlet, then a new wire will have to be added going to switch box.
Most night lights have built in photo eye, and on-off switch.

Add a comment for more help and include specific wiring and what you have tried so far.

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The green wire in your switch is the ground connection, and joins to the green insulated or bare copper ground wire in the switch box. The red wire is the common connection. It connects either to the incoming AC hot wire from the electric panel, or to the hot terminal of the light fixture, depending on the switch location. The two black wires are traveller connections. They connect to the traveller terminals of the other 3-way switch.

If you purchased this switch as a replacement for a regular single-pole toggle switch or dimmer switch - one that controls a light from a single location only - then this isn't what you need and you can't use it. You'll know if you have a single-pole switch because it will have only three wires or screw connections. Return it and get a single-pole.

To install this as a replacement for a 3-way toggle switch or dimmer, connect the red wire to the wire going to the common terminal of the original switch. This will be a black- or brass-colored screw on a toggle switch, or the different-colored (not green, that's ground) wire on a dimmer. The black wires connect to the wires that go to the traveller screws (copper-colored) on a toggle switch, or the same-colored wires on a dimmer. It doesn't matter which traveller wire connects to which.

Note that if you're using a 3-way dimmer, only one of the switches can be a dimmer. The other switch has to be a plain old 3-way toggle.

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