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An impact wrench works by directing air into a chamber where a hub with sliding vanes turns to do your work for you. If any of the five or six vanes are damaged the tork value will go down. It is possible for the hub to turn freely however the more air that gets past the vanes, instead of pushing on them, the lower your tork value will be. The bearings for the hub could be damaged or seized but that usually affects free spinning speed more than tork. The insides of an impact wrench are fairly simple, take it apart and check the vanes and bearings. Ingersol Rand makes rebuild kits for most of their impact wrenches.
Hi, it sounds like you may have lost the blower motor due to the power surge. Normally, it would kick the breaker off.The code is just telling you something is not right as you know. You can try turning off the breaker to the indoor unit for 10 minutes or so, and reset it to see if the blower will start. If you have the manual, that might tell you what the code or light is. Its more then likely a 220 volt indoor unit. Sometimes on a double pole breaker, only one half of it will trip in a power surge. Check to see if this is the case, as you may only be getting 120 volts to run the vanes. If its half way tripped, turn it off hard, and back on hard. that may be your problem. If not, call the service tech, and just tell him it stopped working. He will come out at know charge to you. I bet its your breaker though. Please let me know. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C Contractor
In the most cases for Audi A4 1.9 TDI the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power. The car goes in "limp home" mode!!! After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded 1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2. 2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3. 3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory! 4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.
I have had to clean mine on a yearly basis. On mine once I have the cover off, I can remove a couple more screws, disconnect the baffle motor and the drain connection and pull the drain pan off to gain access to the barrel fan. The first time I cleaned it with a small bottle brush and bleach water. I scrubbed each fin individually, alot of work! I used a pressure bottle(for the garden with wand) to rinse the fan. Then the next year I used a Shark Steamer to clean and kill the mold, still alot of work but easier then scrubbing. I am going to try rinsing it more often with white vinegar to kill the mold.
I am experiencing a similar problem with my Mitsubishi slimline MSH09TW unit; about 4 years old; It use to give us very hot air now it is giving some what hot air; northeastern USA current temperature about 15F. You think frigid weather in Cranbury NJ could be responsible or some thing else is going on. Please help me if you have some time and knowledge about Mitsubishi heat pumps.