Reset the protection because the light keeps burning

http://www.korgforums.com/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=70279&sid=0a3c1fcbb6e1dac75c1a6975f3a1292f I've found this in my files:
01/W Series Initialization: Hold Reset and Compare while turning it on. Preload: Global screen 7 Press G then E it will if OP turns off write protect in the global menu. None of the resets or reboots will do anything until the synth is allowed to use them. If write protect is ON all changes will be rejected.

Take it to the repair shop. Something is blown.

Blowing a fuse means that it has a dead short. The fuse does its job by protecting the other components while the circuit fails. Something is definitely burned out inside.

Which clip light on what and what mics are you using?
The small room settings are from 10 so just turn the know to the setting you require and press it, this should set it.

The stadard way of setting up mics is to set the channel gain so the channel clip light just blinks occasionally when you are making the maximum sound you can into the mic.

For effects repeat this process using the aux send FX for each channel you want fx on (turn the rest to 0) and doing a balancing act between these and the aux send fx master so you can only just get the FX clip light blinking occasionally.

Next set your gain/attenuators on the amp(s) so its clip warning can just trigger when you are giving it 0db when you are playing the loudest you ever will.

A mic fading away could be the battery dying (in which case try using phantom power) or if they're radio replace the batteries before each service. If they're wired dynamic mics then it is possible there's some protection circuit somewhere that's reacting to the constant clipping and backing off the amp.

Are all the tubes lighting up? they should glow like dim light bulbs. If not, replace them with the same model type (12ax7, or EL34 for example).

Often there are two fuses, one to protect the speaker and another to protect everything, it sounds like the latter fuse may be burned out. take it out and take it to radio Shack for exact replacement.

The most likely case is that one of the main output transistors (if which there are many) is shorted. When the protect circuit senses DC on the final output, it will not allow the output relay to come on to protect the speakers from raw DC. With the power removed, you can check between each outputs Emitter and Collector and you will probably find close to zero ohms. From that point you need to unsolder each of the pins of the bad channel until you find the shorted device(s) and replace them.

The protect light generally comes on when the is a short in the speaker cabling. as a test, turn on the mixer without any speakers hooked up. If it still goes into protect mode the problem is in the mixer. Take it to your local music store and have their tech look at it. if it doesn't go into protect, check the speaker cables by plugging them in one at a time. The bad one will send it into protect.

good luck

DO NOT run amps into clipping. Also, while the speakers are rated at 600 Watts, you don't want to use an amp that delivers that much RMS. Use about 300 Watts per side. Unfortunately you did not mention the brand of amps you are using. I will also caution you that the speakers have protection networks that if you are getting supersonic feedback that you can't hear that can burn out the amps. DO NOT boost the highs if the mics can "hear" the speakers or the reverberations from them. Solid connection of speaker cables is important. Intermittent connections can fry amplifiers... I won't go into the technical reason for this other than to say the amp's feedback circutis get confused when the load shifts.

You might also have the speakers checked since they can have an intermittent that is popping the amps. If you happen to be using BERHINGER PMP amps, please read my tip about the grounding hazard where the sleeve of channel A is hot and the tip the cold that I have in the Fixya tips.

It is probably in the wrong mode. Since the light can be set for automatic, sound, and DMX we have NO idea what mode you are trying to run. Refer to page 8 and 9 in your manual for correct dipswitch setting for whatever mode you are running.

For eye protection, the lights must keep moving or they will shut down... which is likely what is happening in your case. If you put in auto mode or sound mode they should keep on. If in DMX mode and the mode does not command movement all the time, they will extinguish.

Transformers USUALLY don't get burned as they are usually protected by a fuse. This one supposedly uses a 3 amp fuse which should have protected it from getting burned. If you can find a schematic or if you can find the specs on the output amp power supplies we can probably calculate the voltage of secondary. We know only that it is supposedly 120 Watts and uses an 8 ohm speaker. The RMS voltage should be about square-root 120*8 = sqrt 960 = 31V*1.4 = approx 44 volts peak... so you will need to get about +/-45 volts out of the supply for headroom... which will need approximately 34 volts AC given diode drop and droop of filter caps. These are really rough educated calculations from the tiny bit of info we have.
Finding a transformer to replace this matching these requirements will be near impossible without getting device from the original manufacturer OR having your rewound.
I would first verify the transformer is bad (only plausible cause is somebody over-fused it or a winding shorted)... Remove all the secondary loads. Put a 3 amp fuse in AND put a 60 Watt light bulb in series with teh power cord to act as a limiting device to test the transformer... Note that transformers DO have a bit of odor as they are usually impregnated with a varnish...