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When a camera notice the lens does not move, it is afraid to damage gears or the motor, of it powers down everything involved the lens. It then gives a message as you read.
Because the camera can't know what is casing this, it only can warn.
It "hopes" if it did run the lens to an obstruction, powering it down will relieve the tension. That is way it says power down.
Remove the battery, check the lens barrel if any obstruction is limiting the free movement of the lens. and then replace the battery. switch it on again.
If you accidentally touched the lens, while it was coming out, it could have given the same error. When after switching on the camera, and you are sure you don't obstruct the free movement of the lens barrel, but it comes back with the same error, you should contact a certified repair centre for your camera.
It could be your shifter pawl in the transmission. But, check for any binding in the long linkage between the shifter and transmission. Disconnect the long connector link at the shifter in the front and check for free movement of the connector and the shifter itself. If that moves freely, then I'd suspect the shifter pawl. You'll see the short lever that connects to the shifter pawl shaft. Make sure that it's tight and not loose on the shaft. If it's loose, the splines are probably worn in the lever and on the shaft as well. Move the lever like it would move to shift to a gear. You should feel spring tension against the movement and it should return to "center" when you let go. If not, the shifter pawl return spring is broken. Usually when this happens, all you have is first and second gear.
If you are initiating the shutter manually, it is quite possible that the camera has become very slightly loose at the F-mount. So, when you press the shutter button, the movement though it may be extremely slight, is shaking the camera at the exact moment you are taking the picture.
Make sure that the camera is tight to the F mount and that the F mount is secure to the microscope.
If you are initiating exposure via software, it is still possible that there is still some slight movement on your desk.
Remember, the slightest movement is magnified many, many times to the camera.
First, a scope of this grade will not be completely in focus as you move from one magnification to the next. But it should be close enough that you do not loose your point of interest.
Be sure you are not pressing down on the stage specimen platform as you change magnifications. It is very sensitive to pressure.
Also, be sure that the coarse focus tension is tight enough that the platform is not drifting down imperceptibly as switch magnifications. Look through the scope and watch if the image goes out of focus while you are watching it. If so, you have what is called "stage drift".
This is corrected by tightening the tension on the coarse focus knob.
The tension adjustment is on the coase focus shaft. It looks like a chrome ring with about 3 holes in it. There should have been a strange looking tool that came with your scope. It is used to adjust the tension. If your specimen is "drifting" out of focus, simply tighten the tension ring a little bit at a time until the specimen no longer goes out of focus. Do not get it so tight that it is not easy to operate the coarse focus knob.
The movement of the lens is motor driven. When you turn the camera on,
the lens moves. The error 12, error 14, and error 22 refer to control
stages in the lens movement ( I think error 22 means the lens won't
retract). The lens housing and gear mechanism in this camera is
plastic. If there is dust, sand, or debris around the lens housing, it
may bind the lens when it trys to extend or retract. By banging it, you
might work the gears loose or dislodge whatever is binding the lens
(same with the "canned air" blowing out the dust). We've purchased a
bunch of these cameras for our electricians in the field. Several have
come back with this problem. I've taken the case off, and torn the lens
assembly apart, only to find the plastic gears have been "buggered up".
It's an inexpensive camera. Try to clean around the lens, give it a few
slaps, push/pull the lens.... but failing this fix, buy a new one.
I think your problem lies in the way the stage is limited upwards. On top of the stage, right behind it where it slides against the arm, there should be a little screw. This screw limits the movement of the stage to a certain point upwards. If the limit exceeds the adjustment gear and its opposing track, then the stage just goes up one notch and then it clunks down. If you screw it down the stage is limited further down, if you screw it up it's limited a bit higher. The point of this screw is to prevent objective and slide damage. Try adjusting this little screw a bit further down and see if it still 'clunks' when you turn it up. After that we may work on properly adjusting it. If not, please post again with whatever detail you can provide to aid you with this problem further.
It seems the life of digital cameras are 2-3 years. The camera has lens gear problem. The lens assy fails most on digital cameras with moving lens. The plastic gears in the lens assy. are quite fragile in design and when used regularly, gears tends to wear down and eventually damages the lens movement. Many time a small impact or stress on lens when extended do the same damage. The parts are sold as a lens assy and repair cost may run around $100.