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Kenmore 110.26002011works fine until it gets to the spin cycle and the lid lock light starts blinking and then turns off and the machine will not spin.

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: lid locked no power

use a screwdriver in the crevice beneath the lid. Approx 4 inches from each side you will see a 1" silver piece of metal, push the tab towards the back of the machine. Once you get one side loose place something such as a screwdriver to keep it unlatched until you get the other side loose. The top should come open. And there is also a service book inside your washing machine, I fixed mine myself. Look at my other postings. Good luck!!

Posted on Nov 22, 2007

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 110.23832100 post rinse cycle spin problems

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.23832100

See the Whirlpool service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Sometime spinning points to a few places.

First, Kenmore top load washers use a motor coupler to transmit power from the motor to the transmission for agitating and spinning. If the coupler is worn or damaged (the prongs on the motor or transmission shafts are broken) the machine may agitate but may not spin.

Second. These washers use a clutch to transmit power to the tub for spinning. If the clutch is worn, it may not be able to transmit all of the power from the transmission.

Third. These washers are whats called Top load, Direct Drive Neutral Drain. This means that when the washer goes into spin mode, the "neutral drain assembly" has a built in mechanical timer that allows most of the water to drain and then begins the spin cycle.

If the cams in the neutral drain assembly are broken or, as we found onours, a spring on one of the cams is broken, the machine won't spinwithout help.

Forth: These washers use a spin tube, driven by the clutch and connected to the tub with a "basket drive block" If the tabs on top of the spin tube have broken off or aren't inside the slots in the drive block, the tub may not spin.

All of the diagnostics start with pulling the cabinet.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

With the transmission out you have access to the motor coupler and clutch. Check both before proceeding.

If the motor coupler and clutch look OK, I'd pull the tub and spin tube and check the tabs on the spin tube and drive block.

If all else appears OK, the problem points to the neutral drain assembly.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

OR

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

Posted on Oct 28, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore he2 front loader washer won't do rinse spin cycle

kappharmd-

if yours is the same, the drain is hidden behind the lower access panel on the front (how convenient, huh?). I don't understand why they didn't just make a recess hole for it. I've just left one screw loose in the center and it kinda "compression" fits. We clean this out regularly, as my wife and family don't check pockets well. :)

Posted on Apr 02, 2010

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have a simpson EZIset

Ihad the same problem. I cleaned out the blocked inlet to the pump and it now works fine. It would not pump out so would not start to spin until empty.

Posted on Dec 07, 2011

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thanks
joyce

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