Question about Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

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The dryer works but no heat.

I cleaned the lint trap and reset the circuit breaker

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Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

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venexcsd
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SOURCE: 1 year old Kenmore dryer tumbles but doesn't heat.

If it is 1 year old, call Kenmore , they will probably fix it as a courtesy call.

If not quote that the machine is not fit for purpose as it should not have gone wrong so quick

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: No Heat

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links explain how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is not the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.

Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that will also help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.

Posted on Jun 22, 2010

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A clogged or partially clogged vent will reduce the air flow through the dryer and greatly increase the drying time. I assume you checked the drying time again after you cleaned the vents. Have you also checked that the lint trap is clean? Make sure no lint has found it's way around the lint trap and has jammed the intake.

I would be very suspicious of the 240 v breaker double breaker feeding the dyrer; maybe the dryer is only running on 120 vac instead of the full 240vac. The motor would be getting full power, but the heating element would only be getting half power.

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2
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Jan 09, 2013 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

DRYER WILL NOT HEAT


Hi,
Check the blown fuses and home’s circuit breaker tripped. Dryer use 2 household Fuses or a circuit breakers, Replace the Fuses or reset the circuit breaker.

Make sure that the lint filter and exhaust duct is clean.

Good Luck and have a nice day.
Rating the solution is highly appreciated

Jun 26, 2010 | Amana Dryers

1 Answer

I have a samsung dryer dv328aer that stopped heating up.


Hi,


Check the home’s circuit breaker and fuses. Electric dryer use 2 household Fuses or a circuit breakers, Replace the Fuses or reset the circuit breaker.


Select a heat setting other than Air Fluff.


Clean the lint filter and exhaust duct.


Another common cause of a dryer failing to heat is a faulty element (Heating Element). You'll need to replace it.



Good Luck and have a nice day.

Rating the solution is highly appreciated.

Jun 21, 2010 | Samsung DV328AE Electric Dryer

1 Answer

LG DLG2532 dryer not heating up, lint trap clean, good air flow out exhasut vent, all controls seam to be working i.e. lights on buttons and chimes good, seams like its not getting gas but valve is turned...


Hi, Make sure you check these to fix the problem.
  • Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

  • Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

  • A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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1 Answer

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Are your lint traps clean? Also, your vent hose going out the back of the dryer sometimes gets clogged up, and this will shut down your dryer until it is cleaned out. Try this, and if it still doesn't work - try shutting the dryer's circuit breaker off (or if its easier to unplug the dryer), and then back on again. This will reset the breaker, and then you can try running your dryer again. In fact, you can do the circuit breaker step first. If this doesn't work, then clean the lint trap, vent, etc. - and then return to the circuit breaker step. I hope this works for you. If not, let me know. I'll check back with you in a little bit. Good Luck!  Jim

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Most likely either the lint trap needs to be cleaned out, the exhaust piping needs cleaning or you have faulty heat sensor / circuit breaker.

Be sure to clean the lint trap before every load may even try cleaning it out half way through the cycle too.

Good luck.

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