Question about Kitchen Ranges
I was boiling water on all 4 burners and water seemed to splash out and liquid was on stove top , and everything went dead , breaker is on power to outlet, no power to stove at all ? Is this a simple fuse located in back of unit? Or did I fry all the circuits?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Whirlpool electric stove
the sensor is built on to the top of the surface element if it was me id replace both the element and switch so you only have to go in once but its probably the element
Posted on Jan 19, 2008
I know you probably have the problem fixed by now, but I had the same problem with my frigidaire range just the other day. Loud popping sound, range/clock controls do not work. Stovetop still works great.
I took the back off the stove and got to the circuit board. Unplug the connector and the five spade connector wires. Once you do that, remove the 4 screws holding the entire assembly in place. The circuit board(s) are held in the housing with retaining clips on the housing. Use a small screwdriver or similar to pull back on each clip to pry each side of the board out. Once the board(s) are free, look in between the two circuit boards and you will see the problem. The larger, 20 amp relay is the culprit. It blew traces off of both boards making it almost impossible to repair. Without having a schematic to go by, I went ahead and decided to just replace w/ new boards as opposed to trying to solder the traces. I have not checked on prices, but brief web searches didn't return any results. The board part # is SF5301-S7509-N
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
2 common, possible problems. 1 - there is a "short" in the plug - easy fix - replace either the cord or plug - not expensive. 2 - bad control board - not so easy, not so cheap. Is it brand new, used? Also, it could be a bad "internal breaker" - not easy!
Posted on May 07, 2009
SOURCE: Viking stove top gas burners
I have a VGR36 6 burner. All the spark ignitors stopped clicking after a major boilover spill. Liquid got into the spark module compartment and caused a short. The paper wiring diagram under the spark module protective cover was burned from the short. I had a Harper 6542 non-reignition spark module but the replacement part is now a Tytronics PA020041 Spark Module. I bought kit #000511-000 from allvikingparts.com which includes the module, a black jumper wire, a green ground wire and an instruction sheet.
It's not difficult to replace the spark module but the 2 screws holding down the module toward the back of the stove are not visable and accessible. I used a thumbwheel rachet with a long philips screw driver bit (for cordless drills) to remove and replace the screws. The wiring was simple. The 2 power wires need to be wired to the correct polarity on the module, but the remaining 4 ignition wires can be wired to any of the 4 terminals on the new module. All the wires have plug in connectors and no cutting and splicing is necessary, but I had to cut and splice because one wire shorted and the insulation was burned from the major spill on my stove.
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
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