Question about Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

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White Plastic From Washer

Pieces of white plastic are in tub. Seems to be coming from washer just under lid.

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Re: White Plastic From Washer

Sounds like pieces of the detergent drawer might have cracked and fallen off. Check the drawer and see if you need to replace it.

Posted on Mar 07, 2008

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Maytag FAV6800AWW Top Load Washer installed 7/21/04 lid rusting underneath, tub rusting. What can I do if anything?

The Washer lid and top base and base cabient can be sanded primed and rattle can touch up. You won't have the nice finish.

The tub is fiber glass or some molded plastic so I assume your are speaking about the metal parts ie. lid, washer top base and cabinet.

There are some parts on e-bay from time to time such as 25001117 Lid (white) FAV6800AWW

Feb 20, 2011 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

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Washer will not spin my washer is a kenmore 80 series

the most common problem can be a bad lid switch.
You can also check the transmission coupler that is between the motor and transmission.

I would assume that the washer will drain,once the washer is empty the move it out from the wall tilt it back and look under the front.

You will see the motor and just be hind the motor you will see a black rubber disc with two white plastic pieces in it if this is broken then you need to replace it.

Feb 26, 2010 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

Washer will not agitate or spin

Worn agitator dogs have NOTHING to do with the washer's ability to spin. Spin and agitation is controlled by the drive motor and gearcase (transmission). The washer will still spin and agitate with worn dogs on the cam assembly, but the agitiator will slip or remain stationary. This configuration usually applies only to Whirlpool manufactured washers (includes Kenmore, Estate, Roper, Kelvinator, Kitchenaid and some later model Maytags).

The most common cause of the symptoms you describe is a lid switch malfunction.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.

If you have questions, need additional assistance, please post back with your model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub opening under the washer lid), so I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: The problem could also be attributed to a a worn gearcase, but you need to rule out the least expensive and more comon problems first.

Feb 03, 2010 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

Washer will not agitate but fills/drains/spins

Could be related to pressure switch which measures the amount of water in tub. Does it fill and then just sit there?

Nov 13, 2009 | GE 3.2 Cu. Ft. 6-Cycle Super Capacity...

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I have a Whirlpool Washer (Model # LSR7233EQ0) and after it is done filling it doesn't agitate at all. There is a buzzing noise coming from the machine. On your site one of the users wrote: When mine did...

Double check your symptoms. The problem you are having could be a motor coupling, or a lid switch malfunction.

If the washer will fill, will not agitate or spin, but will STILL drain, these are the symptoms of a broken motor coupling. This is a very simple and inexpensive repair. The following link explains step-by-step how to replace one:

The part number is included in the link I provided. You can purchase a replacement on line at for about $11.

If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or, if the washer fills, then stops, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The washer will NOT drain either. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

The part number for a replacement lid switch for your model washer is 3949247. It can be purchased at for about $24.

If you have questions please let me know. A motor coupling repair is a little more involved than a lid switch. I would recommend checking the switch first. It may save you from having to take the washer apart any more than you have to.

I hope you find this information helpful.

Oct 17, 2009 | Washing Machines

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If your washer has a white plastic tub, look on the back edge as you look over the top of the washer. If your washer has a dark metal tub, try looking on the front lower corner of the left side panel.

May 07, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Lint filter

Hi Bob... You probably have a buildup of crud in the outer tub itself, or perhaps someone washed a rug and the backin has come off and is all in the outer tub and little by litter it is cloggin up the water pump. I would suggest that you pull the inner basket out of the machine and do a good cleaning of the machine. It's rather easy to remove that inner basket- you only need a phillips screw driver!
1. Pop out the two plastic white caps near the front/top (under the washer lid but on the top of the washer) and remove each screw.
2. Remove the agitator by popping the fabric softener cap out and simply reaching down in the center and unscrewing the white plastic "tee" nut that secures it to the agitator shaft and lift the agitator up and out.
3. Lift the machine's top up (it lifts up just like the lid does)
4. Unsnap the "tub collar" from the washer tub, (requires no tools!)
5. Grab ahold of that entire inner basket and lift it right up and out of the machine. (you may want a helper to hold the machine top back for you)

Now with that basket out, you can see what you need to do as far as any kind of build-up. You can wipe clean the inner plastic tub and remove any lint/rug backing/crud you see, and you can take that basket and clean it up in a laundry tub, of it is warmer where you live, take it outside and spray it down with a garden hose. The underside is probably going to filthy. The outer side of the inner tub is almost like a cheese grater, it might have some lint snagged in the holes. Just spray it down and clean everything up. Put it back together and you're good to go again.
It takes me about 10 minutes tops to pull the inner basket. Fisher Paykel's are very easy to work on.

Feb 21, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Whirlpool Duet: gray plastic agitator poece inside drum broke off

here's the part number for the replacement 8182233, thinking it may come as a 3 pack , if they're not broken no need to replace. but the new one will simply slide in and with a click forward lock into place. they also come shipped with a screw to secure. in order to install screw you'll need to remove the top of the washer(3 screws across the back of the top assy and slides back and off. then you'll see the top of the tub area, a small black hose will run from the white box to the left to directly top of the tub assy. remove ethe hose from the tub and spin the inner drum to the correct position, they screw hole will line up through the opening, re-secure the hose to the tub and your in!

Nov 13, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Top load kenmore washer

Your problem could be a bad gear case assembly (transmission), bad clutch, or a bad motor coupling. The easiest to diagnose and repair is the motor coupling (it's also the least expensive). All, however, will require access to the inside of the machine. This can be accomplished by: FIRST, UNPLUGGING THE MACHINE 1. Remove the console. Depending in the model you have, the console can be removed by removing the two end caps by placing a flat screwdriver in a groove on the top rear and gently lifting up. The end caps should pop off, exposing a philips screw under each one. Remove the screws and the console should lift up and back. If the end caps are not removable, then you need to place a putty knife under the front corner on either side of the console to release the retaining clips holding it on. Once the clips are released the console should lift off. 2. Disconnect the lid switch connector (white plastic plug with three wires going to it). 3. Remove the two brass-colored clips under the console. These hold the case to the washer frame. Once removed, the case should come off. 4. Lift the washer lid and place one hand under the front rim. Lifting the back up first, pull the case towards you and slide off the frame. 5. Check the floor under the wash tub area, first. If you notice any pools, or dripping of oil, then your gear case is probably shot. Once they start to leak, they should be replaced. 6. Now, you will see a small plastic (white or gray) pump with two hoses coming from it. This is the drain pump. DO NOT take the hoses off. Remove the two retaining clips with a flat screwdriver. Remember how they go back on. There will be a keyed slot on the top and bottom that they must go back in. Leave the hoses attached, remove the pump from the drive motor shaft and push aside. 7. The driver motor is attached in the same manner as the drain pump. Except, the drive motor clips usually have screws holding them in place and are a bit larger. In addition, you will need to remove the wire harness connector. Be careful when removing the retaining clips as the drive motor is heavy. Behind the motor is the motor coupling. 8. The motor coupling consists of two plastic triangular shaped pieces with three forks on each one, connected by a round rubber bushing with holes in it. Typically the plastic forks break off, or the rubber bushing rips apart. Also, the center hole of the plastic pieces can round out to the point that they just spin on the shaft. The center hole should have two flat sides and should NOT be completely round. The coupling usually costs less than $10 to replace. The gear case and clutch are a little more difficult to replace and generally are for the more seasoned techs to handle. If you inspect your machine and find that the motor coupling is fine, then let me know and I'll try to give you pointers to further diagnose.

May 15, 2007 | Kenmore 23822 Top Load Washer

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