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Re: replaced defrost heater
If this is an old mechanically controled defrost timer style refrigerator, the defrost control may still be in the defrost mode. It should advance to run within an hour. If it does not, your defrost control timer may be bad. If you posted your model number, I could advise you on where the defrost control is located, what the part numer is, and how to manually advance it to the run position.
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that sound like the defrost heater it will stretch out or get wet and short out letting ice build up and not defrost get mod number and go to http://www.manualsonline.com/ and enter mod number to order part has breakdown pics as well
its most likely the defrost heating element as G.E. is notorious for a poor defrost heater,you need to remove the inside rear panel in the freezer and this element is located at the bottom of the evaporator core,you can test it with an ohmmeter,its in a glass tube and if bad will pull apart,be careful of broken glass tube,the new heater is a dual tube G.E.# WR51X10101,it uses 2 tubes side by side,it will fit like the original,the only thing you need to do is route the longer pink or blue power wire down the opposite side with the other power wire because there will be a jumper wire on one side of the new heating element,very rarely does the defrost terminator go bad,if it does,to test it it needs to be below 15 degrees to test good as this is a bi-metallic switch and closes below 15 degrees
Let's begin by looking for the defrost
timer in photo here=> CSX20BABCWH Fresh Food
Section Controls The part number is=> WR9X489 Sounds like you
are not getting defrost and this is the most likely reason. Turn the defrost
timer clockwise slowly until compressor and fans stop. Allow to remain like
this up to 30 minutes and open freezer door and then listen for sizzling or
crackle noise. This will indicate the fridge is in defrost. If the timer does
not restart the compressor after this time simply turn again slowly clockwise
until it starts. If this works the timer needs replaced. You have two other
parts the defrost heater and defrost thermostat to check if the above does not
work. Then click here=> .CSX20BABCWH Freezer Section
Components See the part location 230 is your=> WR51X442 Glass Tube Heater
Then finally the defrost thermostat is part location 240 and part number=> WR50X122 Defrost Thermostat
Try the timer first and let me know how that comes out and I will go through
replacing the defrost Heater and defrost thermostat once I know how the fist
test works. If helpful please rat if not then please tell me what I can answer
from here, Thank You Sea Breeze
Unplug refrig. Empty all food from freezer side and remove shelves from freezer. Remove back metal cover from inside freezer. Melt frost with a hair blower. Examine defrost heater at very bottom of the coils you defrosted. If heater coil inside glass tube is broken, replace defrost heater. (note: replacement may look different, but insturctions included with replacement address that) If heater is not broken, replace the small white pencil shapped sensor at the top of the cooling coils.
This a a self defrosting refrigerator. Every 8 hours or so depending on your timer or defrost control the compressor and fans are shut down and the heating element inside the evaporation/freezer compartment is energized. It stays on until its little friend the defrost termination thermostat shuts it down at 50 degrees f. This is just warm enough to melt the frost on the coils. The defrost mode stays on for around 20 minutes. The liquid from the defrost action has to drain somewhere right? Their is a drain hole it is supposed to go down. Junk gets into the hole and blocks the drain and the water goes into the ice box and ends up under the crispers. To remedy this you get a shop vac and clean out the drain hole or flush it with clorox and warm water or blow it out with shop air. If ice is causing the blockage and you have a solid heater (not a glass heater) you can connect a copper wire to the heater and extendt it down into the hole to keep ice from blocking the hole. They make a kit for glass tube type heaters also, it is a flat piece of copper that simply wraps around the glass tube and into the hole.
The problem is the defrost timer you just replace on your refrigerator, you will need to check the ratings on the broken defrost timer to ensure it matches the ratings on the present defrost heater on your refrigerator, beside, you will need to test the continuity on your present defrost heater to see if the voltage rating is ok, because, if it can be tripping the breaker off while it kicks into defrost mode signify that the present defrost heater is not compatible with your refrigerator, it is either it is not well wired or fixed, and if it is, then, it means the defrost timer voltage rating is low compare to the former, you will need to get exact specification as the the broken one.
You can fix it. Take the broken tube off, using an adjustable wrench. Take the tube to your nearest hardware, so you can have the right replacement size.Using the old broken tube as sample, you can copy it with the tube you just bought from the hardware. Don't forget to place the fittings to the tube before having the tube ends flared. Then, you can install the replacement to your compressor. Please send your comments and vote so I will know.
Because it is still running I believe the defrost heater may have burned out. The part number for the heater is WR51X10055 You will need to unplug and remove the rear panel in the back of the freezer to confirm. It will be easy to spot if burned out because it has a glass tube around the element. If you replace the defrost heater I recommend you also replace the defrost thermostat. If the evaporator is frozen over you may need to defrost with a hair dryer to be able to see anything . Sea Breeze
Sounds like an internal mounting spring for the compressor. Only solution is replacing the compressor. However the compressor can run in this condition for years. Replacement compressors only have a one year warranty. A new refrigerator comes with a five year warranty.
HI DOROTHY.YOUR QUESTION IS A VERY TRICKY ONE BUT I WILL TRY AND ADVISE YOU CORRECTLY.WITH REGARDS TO THE WIRING NOT BEING STRONG ENOUGH I HIGHLY DOUBT THAT WILL CAUSE ANY PROBLEMS IN THE NEAR FUTURE.IF YOU ARE STILL FEELING UNEASY ITS BEST YOU GET A SECOND OPIONION FROM A DIFFRENT CONTRACTOR.GOOD LUNK AND REGARDS MOHAMED.