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Re: replaced defrost heater
If this is an old mechanically controled defrost timer style refrigerator, the defrost control may still be in the defrost mode. It should advance to run within an hour. If it does not, your defrost control timer may be bad. If you posted your model number, I could advise you on where the defrost control is located, what the part numer is, and how to manually advance it to the run position.
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that sound like the defrost heater it will stretch out or get wet and short out letting ice build up and not defrost get mod number and go to http://www.manualsonline.com/ and enter mod number to order part has breakdown pics as well
its most likely the defrost heating element as G.E. is notorious for a poor defrost heater,you need to remove the inside rear panel in the freezer and this element is located at the bottom of the evaporator core,you can test it with an ohmmeter,its in a glass tube and if bad will pull apart,be careful of broken glass tube,the new heater is a dual tube G.E.# WR51X10101,it uses 2 tubes side by side,it will fit like the original,the only thing you need to do is route the longer pink or blue power wire down the opposite side with the other power wire because there will be a jumper wire on one side of the new heating element,very rarely does the defrost terminator go bad,if it does,to test it it needs to be below 15 degrees to test good as this is a bi-metallic switch and closes below 15 degrees
its either the ptc overload on the compressor thats shut down the compressor,or if the inner freezer back wall is frosted over then its the defrost heater or thermostat on the evaporator coil,the heater on these is very prone to burn out,its a glass tube heater about 12" long and the part # is AP3183311 at appliance parts pros for about $50.00
Unplug refrig. Empty all food from freezer side and remove shelves from freezer. Remove back metal cover from inside freezer. Melt frost with a hair blower. Examine defrost heater at very bottom of the coils you defrosted. If heater coil inside glass tube is broken, replace defrost heater. (note: replacement may look different, but insturctions included with replacement address that) If heater is not broken, replace the small white pencil shapped sensor at the top of the cooling coils.
This a a self defrosting refrigerator. Every 8 hours or so depending on your timer or defrost control the compressor and fans are shut down and the heating element inside the evaporation/freezer compartment is energized. It stays on until its little friend the defrost termination thermostat shuts it down at 50 degrees f. This is just warm enough to melt the frost on the coils. The defrost mode stays on for around 20 minutes. The liquid from the defrost action has to drain somewhere right? Their is a drain hole it is supposed to go down. Junk gets into the hole and blocks the drain and the water goes into the ice box and ends up under the crispers. To remedy this you get a shop vac and clean out the drain hole or flush it with clorox and warm water or blow it out with shop air. If ice is causing the blockage and you have a solid heater (not a glass heater) you can connect a copper wire to the heater and extendt it down into the hole to keep ice from blocking the hole. They make a kit for glass tube type heaters also, it is a flat piece of copper that simply wraps around the glass tube and into the hole.
The problem is the defrost timer you just replace on your refrigerator, you will need to check the ratings on the broken defrost timer to ensure it matches the ratings on the present defrost heater on your refrigerator, beside, you will need to test the continuity on your present defrost heater to see if the voltage rating is ok, because, if it can be tripping the breaker off while it kicks into defrost mode signify that the present defrost heater is not compatible with your refrigerator, it is either it is not well wired or fixed, and if it is, then, it means the defrost timer voltage rating is low compare to the former, you will need to get exact specification as the the broken one.
your freezer is not okay. in fact, it is the problem. take off the back wall in the freezer. more than likely you are going to find an ice ball encasing your evaporator. melt the ice with a hairdryer, careful not to melt any wires, or damage any of the evaporators thin fins. melting the ice will save you what could be a $80 dollar labor charge compared to a $120 charge JUST FOR LABOR!
your problem is (in order from most likely to not) defrost bi-metal (a.k.a. defrost thermostat or termination switch). This is 90 percent of the time your problem. the next two cover the other pieces of the pie.
defrost heater (after you melt the ice CAREFULLY off of what is the evaporator underneath, you will find either a glass tube with a coil of wire in it, or a black graphite colored rod...both have a wire on each end. you will need to specify if it is a radiant heater (glass tube one) or a calrod (greyish one) This is the problem if your unit goes into defrost (you hear nothing inside the freezer; no fans, no compressor running, nothing. this is what you should hear during defrost on a properly operating fridge. if you look under the evaporator, you will see it glowing during this time (DONT TOUCH IT, ITS HOT) if you see this glowing, it is good.
You can fix it. Take the broken tube off, using an adjustable wrench. Take the tube to your nearest hardware, so you can have the right replacement size.Using the old broken tube as sample, you can copy it with the tube you just bought from the hardware. Don't forget to place the fittings to the tube before having the tube ends flared. Then, you can install the replacement to your compressor. Please send your comments and vote so I will know.
May be the glass heater for defrost not function cause by thermal fuse broken, or may be the defrost timer damage. The timer location usually at the back of reff on the bottom side, over or near the compressor unit.
HI DOROTHY.YOUR QUESTION IS A VERY TRICKY ONE BUT I WILL TRY AND ADVISE YOU CORRECTLY.WITH REGARDS TO THE WIRING NOT BEING STRONG ENOUGH I HIGHLY DOUBT THAT WILL CAUSE ANY PROBLEMS IN THE NEAR FUTURE.IF YOU ARE STILL FEELING UNEASY ITS BEST YOU GET A SECOND OPIONION FROM A DIFFRENT CONTRACTOR.GOOD LUNK AND REGARDS MOHAMED.