Leaking pump body leaks

I had a new pump brought to me once that continued to leak after replacing the shaft seal three times. Careful examination revealed a sand casting fault in the pump body. The water was leaking through the body of the pump. Have you replaced the shaft seal?

If it's leaking from the gasket you'll have to replace the gasket. If coolant is leaking from the hole in the water pump body the water pump seal is leaking. The pump will have to be replaced if the seal is leaking.

You didn't state your model number so I don't know exactly which type pump you have. With that; there is no 'oil pressure' in power washer pumps. The internal parts work in an oil bath/splash environment and the pump body is vented, usually at the oil fill cap. Thicker oils and stop leak will only mask the problem and make the pump work harder. Where the oil is coming out is key to the problem. Clean the pump well with something like dish soap to remove all excess oil to find exactly where it's leaking. If it's leaking at a part joint, like the pump body to the valve body or at a bolt, you may have a bad gasket or cracked part. If it's coming out the oil cap a likely cause is there is too much oil in the pump. When oil gets hot it expands and will find a way out. If you have an oil site glass, make sure the site glass is only half full of oil. If it has a dipstick, make sure you have the right dipstick and only fill it to the full mark. Most pressure pumps only need to be half full but that is dependent on your particular pump. If you have it consult your owner's manual. If you don't have the manual you can go to http://servicenet.dewalt.com, search for your model number and see if the manual is still available.

could be leaking at the top radiator hose going to thermostat, that is a hard spot to see leak remove the air filter and air filter housing look below throttle body you see thermostat housing, check for leaks around thermostat housing gasket and check for leak at the top radiator hose going to radiator and thermostat.if all is good check all radiator hoses for leaks check small coolant lines going to throttle body for leaks and check make sure bleeder screw on thermostat housing not loose it will leak also check around radiator and water pump heater bypass metal lines for leaks.

I don't recommend Teflon tape as it places outward pressure on the pump and can cause the pump body to crack. and if that happens the pump body will need to be replaced. I use black RTV silicone. smooshing it into the threads of both fittings and hand tightening the fitting.. then the glue the pipe as normal
REMEMBER to prime the pump after any pump repair !!
Teflon tape works well on metal pump like well and irrigation, they are a high pressure pump and are generally cast iron tanks.
Jay the pool pump motor repair guy longwood Florida 32750

Inspect the fuel inlet hose closely. If you notice a wet spot around the hose where it joins the carburetor fitting, or the hose has become swollen, soft, brittle or hard, replace the fuel hose and the small fuel filter inside the carburetor fitting. Install a new worm clamp to tighten the new fuel hose to the fitting. Use a Phillips screwdriver.

Check for a fuel leak around the accelerator-pump cover assembly. Some carburetor models come equipped with a diaphragm-accelerator pump on the side of the unit. If the cover screws have come loose, fuel will leak through the diaphragm and external cover. Look for a square cover on the side of the carburetor and tighten the cover mounting screws at each corner with a Phillips screwdriver.

Look around the gasket located between the carburetor upper body and the main, or lower body. This gasket may have worn out or the carburetor upper body mounting screws may have become loose, allowing fuel to leak outside the carburetor.

Ensure the upper body mounting screws are tight, if you found a leak. If they are tight, remove the clip holding the throttle linkage to the carburetor with a pair of needle-nose pliers and reposition the linkage to the side. The linkage allows the driver to operate the throttle plates in the carburetor through a cable when depressing the accelerator pedal. Unfasten the screws holding the carburetor upper body from the main body with a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. Remove the old gasket and install a new one.

Inspect around the bottom of the carburetor where it joins the intake manifold if no leaks were found around the gasket located between the carburetor upper body and the main, or lower body. If you find a wet spots or marks around the bottom of the carburetor, the base plate gasket is leaking. Remove the upper and main carburetor body using a ratchet, short ratchet extension and socket. Install a new base gasket and replace the carburetor assembly.

This most certainly sounds like a water pump issue. The thermostate is located inside the water pump housing and if the pump is bad you'l lose fluids and need to add every day or so. The temp guage will run hot and often the heater won't warm up. You have even notice fluids on the ground below the front passenger side of the car. Try getting a pressure test first before replacing anything. That's a good place to start the diagnosis.

The pump may leaking from a weep hole at the bottom of the pump. If the shaft seal goes bad, the hole allows the anti-freeze to leak out.

CHECK DRAIN FILLTER SEAL.

This is a shot in the dark depending on how much it is leaking you can try a sealent called bars stop leak it is poured directly into the radiator (a cool one) and is run for an extended period of time you are not out much if it d'ont work. other than that you will have to have the gasket replaced with a sealent tempeture over 500 degrees good luck!