Can't tighten bolt nut and screw on Atlantic patio table

Step 1 Pull back the rubber cover of the clutch lever to reveal the lock nut and adjusting screw. Loosen the lock nut with a wrench. Tighten the adjuster screw until it won't turn any more.
Step 2 Remove the left frame cover of the body of the bike and set it aside in a safe place. Remove the bolts holding the secondary gear case cover and the clutch release cover with a socket wrench. Remove the secondary gear case and clutch release cover and set them aside.
Step 3 Find the lock nut and screw located at the lower end of the clutch assembly cable. Loosen the lock nut. Loosen the screw by three rotations. Slowly finger tighten the adjusting screw until you start to feel resistance. Loosen the screw a quarter-rotation. Tighten the lock nut to hold it in place.
Step 4 Locate the lower cable adjuster above the clutch release cover. Loosen the two lock nuts of the adjuster with the socket wrench. Turn the cable adjuster screw and check the clutch lever as you turn. Tighten the adjuster screw until the clutch lever will wiggle loosely or "play" about 1/8-inch. Tighten the lock nuts.
Tighten the lock nut of the clutch lever. Replace the clutch release, secondary gear case and left frame cover. Pull the rubber cover back over the clutch lever.

In the center of the gear box there is an adjustment screw to tighten or loosen the steering. It is usually and Allen key bolt/screw with a locking nut on it. Loosen the nut and adjust the center screw/bolt. I believe adjusting the screw clockwise is to tighten but I am not positive.

Under the protective cover of the bar and chain on the motor are the nuts / bolts and chain tension adjustment screws.

Depending on model (you didn't include yours so generic instructions follow); removing the nuts / bolts that hold the cover in place will allow the bar and chain to be removed - or to adjust the chain tension on the bar with a long screw for that purpose. Once the tension is set with the adjustment screw it is locked into place when the cover is re-secured with the nuts / bolts.

If you need more specific help - please provide your make and model chainsaw.

VERIFY your engine model numbers
Briggs & Stratton Intek V-Twin
Engine Model Numbers 407777 and 44P777
Cylinders 2 (Dual cylinder)

ITEM N m (Newton metres) lb-in Spark Plug Torque 20 180 Back Plate (to cylinder) 11 100 Blower Housing Screws 9 80 Breather Screws 6 55 Carburetor to Manifold 7 65 Cylinder Head Bolts 25 220 Cylinder Shield 7 65 Crankcase Cover 23 200 Engine Mounting Bolts 48 35 lb-ft Electric Clutch Mounting Bolt 75 55 lb-ft Exhaust Manifold 16 140 Fan Retainer Bolts 16 140 Flywheel Nut 203 150 lb-ft Armature Mounting Screws 3 25 Intake Manifold Bolts 9 80 Rocker Arm Adjustment Lock Nut 7 62 Rocker Support Screws 11.3 100 Valve Cover Cap Screws 11 100 Carburetor to Intake 7 65 Valve Clearance (Cold) 0.10-0.13 mm (0.004-0.005 in)
WARNING: Uneven tightening will warp the head. Tighten Cylinder Head Bolts down evenly by hand. Then using torque wrench tighten in sequence, in 9 N m (80 lb-in) increments to 25 N m (220 lb-in).
Intake valve push rods are aluminum.
Exhaust valve push rods are steel.
DO NOT interchange push rods.

Removal and Re-installation sequence for bolt removal and tightening.

Drive Belts

• INSPECTION
• ADJUSTMENT
• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

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INSPECTION

See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5
Check the condition and tension of all drive belts every 12,000 miles, or at least once a year. Loose drive belts can lead to poor engine cooling and diminished alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, or emission air pump output. A belt that is too tight places a strain on the bearings in the driven component.

Fig. Fig. 1: There are typically 3 types of accessory drive belts found on vehicles today

Fig. Fig. 2: An example of a healthy drive belt

Fig. Fig. 3: Deep cracks in this belt will cause flex, building up heat that will eventually lead to belt failure

Fig. Fig. 4: The cover of this belt is worn, exposing the critical reinforcing cords to excessive wear

Fig. Fig. 5: Installing too wide a belt can result in serious belt wear and/or breakage
Replace any drive belt that is glazed, worn, cracked, or stretched to the point where correct adjustment tension is impossible. If two belts are used to drive a component, always replace both belts when replacement is necessary. After installing a new belt, run the engine for ten minutes, shut OFF the engine and recheck the belt tension. Readjust if necessary.

ADJUSTMENT

See Figures 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10

Fig. Fig. 6: Engine belt tension chart-2.2L engines

Fig. Fig. 7: Engine belt tension chart-1987-89 2.5L engines

Fig. Fig. 8: Engine belt tension chart-2.6L engines

Fig. Fig. 9: Engine belt tension chart-1990-93 models

Fig. Fig. 10: Engine belt tension chart-1994-95 models
Two popular methods of checking drive belt adjustment are; the Belt Tension Gauge Method and the Belt Deflection Method. The former requires a special gauge and the latter requires a straight edge and scale or just a good eye for measurement. The deflection method will be used in the following belt replacement instructions. A rule of thumb for checking belt tension by the deflection method is to determine the midpoint between two pulleys of the drive belt and press down at that point with moderate thumb pressure. The belt should deflect to the measurement indicated in the following installation procedures. Adjustment is necessary if the belt is either too loose or too tight.

WARNING A belt adjustment which is either too loose or too tight will eventually damage the accessory that belt is driving. A too loose adjustment allows free-play in the belt which could transfer a whipping motion or shock to the accessory drive pulley. Similarly, a belt which is too tight will preload the accessory bearings, leading to early failure.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 11
Raise the front of the vehicle, support on jackstands and remove the lower splash shield if access is hampered due to space limitations when changing drive belts.

Fig. Fig. 11: Support the vehicle, then remove the lower right side splash shield for access to the drive belts
2.2L Engines
A/C COMPRESSOR DRIVE BELT
See Figures 12, 13 and 14

Fig. Fig. 12: A/C compressor drive belt adjusting points-2.2L engines

Fig. Fig. 13: Loosening the locking screws for A/C compressor drive belt removal

Fig. Fig. 14: Removing the A/C compressor drive belt from under the vehicle

1. Loosen the idler pulley bracket pivot screw and the locking screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Using a breaker bar and socket apply torque to the welded nut provided on the mounted bracket to obtain proper tension.
4. Tighten the locking screw first, followed by pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT (CHRYSLER TYPE)
See Figures 15 and 16

Fig. Fig. 15: Alternator belt adjustment-2.2L engine

Fig. Fig. 16: Loosening the locking screw for alternator drive belt removal
If removal of the alternator belt is required, the A/C belt must first be removed.

1. Loosen the pivot nut, locking screw, and the adjusting screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
4. Tighten the locking screw to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
5. Tighten the pivot nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT (BOSCH TYPE)
If removal of the alternator belt is required, the A/C belt must first be removed.

1. Loosen the pivot nut, locking nut, and adjusting screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
4. Tighten the locking nut to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
5. Tighten the pivot nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

POWER STEERING BELT
If removal of the power steering belt is required, the A/C and alternator belts must first be removed.

1. Loosen the locking screw, and pivot screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Install a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar into the pump bracket slot, apply pressure with the breaker bar and adjust the belt to specification.
4. Tighten the locking screw first, then the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

AIR PUMP DRIVE BELT
See Figure 17

Fig. Fig. 17: Air pump belt adjustment-2.2L engines
When servicing the air pump, use the square holes provided in the pulley to prevent camshaft rotation.

1. Remove the nuts and bolts retaining the drive pulley cover.
2. Remove the locking bolt and pivot bolt from the pump bracket, then remove the pump.
3. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
4. Position the pump, then install the locking bolt and pivot bolt finger-tight.
5. Install a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar into the bracket assembly (block the drive pulley to prevent camshaft rotation), and adjust the belt to specification.
6. Tighten locking bolt and pivot bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).

2.5L Engines
AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR
See Figure 18

Fig. Fig. 18: Drive belt adjustment points-2.5L engines

1. Loosen the idler bracket pivot screw and the locking screws to replace, or adjust belt.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust the belt to specification by applying torque to weld nut on the idler bracket.
4. Tighten locking screw first, followed by the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

ALTERNATOR BELT
See Figure 18
If replacement of the alternator belt is required, the A/C drive belt must first be removed.

1. Loosen the pivot nut, locking nut, and adjusting screw.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Adjust the belt to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
4. Tighten the locking nut to 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
5. Tighten the pivot nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).

POWER STEERING PUMP
See Figure 18
If replacement of the power steering belt is required, the A/C and alternator belts must first be remove.

1. Loosen the locking screw and pivot screw to replace, or adjust the belt.
2. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
3. Using a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar positioned in adjusting bracket slot, adjust the belt to specification.
4. Tighten the locking screw followed by the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).

2.6L Engines
ALTERNATOR/AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR BELT
See Figure 19

Fig. Fig. 19: Drive belt adjustment points-2.6L engines

1. Loosen the locking screw, jam nut, and pivot nut.
2. Loosen the adjusting screw.
3. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
4. Adjust the belt to specification by tightening the adjusting screw.
5. Tighten the locking screw followed by the pivot nut. Tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
6. Tighten the jam nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).

POWER STEERING PUMP BELT
See Figure 19
If replacement of the power steering belt is required, the alternator and A/C belt must first be remove.

1. Loosen the pivot screw, and the locking screw.
2. Remove the timing pickup.
3. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
4. Install a 1 / 2 in. breaker bar in the adjusting bracket slot, torque to specification.
5. Tighten the locking screw, followed by the pivot screw. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
6. Install the timing pick-up, and tighten to 160 inch lbs. (18 Nm).

If your table has feet that look like the screw in, then youshould be able to adjust the feet on the legs of the table by tightening themall. To so you should ensure that the table is flat and see if any of the feetare off the ground, if so you should adjust them so that they are touching thefloor on all sides.

I just had the same problem with my Atlantic. The paddles are held on by 2 bolts. You will need to remove the 2 screws holding the dryer door in place and the corresponding screws on the other side. Pull off the front panel of the dryer. You will then need to rotate the drum with the baffle at the 5:00 position to gain access to the bolts that are holding it on. Tighten the bolts with nut driver or socket wrench, reassemble, and you should be good to go!!!

The jam nut is on the end of the bolt you are adjusting, directly underneath the table. The easiest way to get to it is to place the saw on it's left side, and move the saw blade to the maximum bevel position (45 degrees). You can then reach up -directly underneath the location of the bolt on top - and access the jam nut.

To be clear - the bolt you are tightening is about 2 inches long with the jam nut on the end with the purpose of tightening the bolt into place once you have established the correct adjusted position.

And yes, the directions for this step were terrible.

if you dont have the rivnut tool the easy way to get rivenuts to tighten up is to get a bolt and nut longer than what comes in the kit (stainless steel a better choice). place the nut in vice and using a hack saw cut some groves at right angles accross face of the nut,or use a file set at an angle . when you are satisfied that the nut has enough sharp edge's , this is what is going to hold the rivnut in place while you turn bolt to compress the rivnut. now screw nut onto halfway on to bolt and screw bolt into rivenut until bolt and nut are tight up against the rivnut, now using two spanners one on the bolt and one on the nut , hold nut still and screw in the bolt , as the bolt starts to screw in it should compress the rivnut so it holds tight in to the predrilled hole. then screw bolt out and remove , that should get you sorted. if rivnut is crossthreaded drill out and replace.

Hi I would try a local patio supply place. Something like BBQ galore