Oven won't light or stay lit and door won't fully open
Our Viking model VGIS360-4GD oven does not stay lit and works sporatically, only the broiler works and to add to our misery the door only opens about 25% of the way. Also, cannot remove the door - how do you remove the door? As I attempt to lift the door upwards it gets stuck within the first 1/8" to 1/4" as I pull upwards. Can the hinge be replaced or is there a fix?
Also, how do you replace the ignitor for my gridle, that went out this year.
If anyone is interesting in buying a viking product I would give it a second thought.
Re: Oven won't light or stay lit and door won't fully...
I have a viking stove as well. We had oven problems-it did not heat and also worked sporadically. We had to have the ignitors replaced and it worked great for about 3 years. I have just had to replace the ignitors again for the same reason. It seem that they don't last too long. Good luck. I can't help you with the other problems.
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when the lp conversion is done , it is normally just a jet size change that is done
however the air shroud has to also be adjusted to get a clean blue burn of the flame
The just jet change results in a slightly yellow flame which is incomplete burn of the gas and that creates carbon build up at the jet and burners causing partial blockage
I would suggest that you call in an accredited gas fitter to check the problem and if necessary , clean the jets and adjust the air shroud
All oven door typically lift off the hinges by design. If you open the door to what is referred as the broil position. You know when the door stops about 4 to 6 inches open at the top. Then do the following.
1. Lift the door up completely off the opposite hinge still in place and remove. Set the door aside carefully as if has glass window, you do not want to break.
2. Then set both hinges at the broiler stop position. If one is all the way in to door fully closed position pull it out with your hand or with pliers till it stops @ broiler position. If all the way down as if door was fully open, lift hinge until it stops at broiler position. CAUTION- THE HINGES ARE SPRING LOADED AND CAN SNAP BACK INTO FULLY CLOSED POSITION. You can use a heavy glove or if you have an oven mitten, that can work to protect your fingers. DO NOT GET YOUR FINGERS BETWEEN HINGE AND OVEN OR CAN PINCH FINGERS.
3. Now carefully lift the door over the hinges set at the broiler position. Careful not to bump them when doing so or can snap closed. If does, reset hinge to broiler position and repeat. Works best to hold door at angle that door is when in broiler position. Once you have them started evenly, you should be able to fully slide down back onto both hinges.
4. If one of the hinges no longer has spring tension you have to reattach the spring. You can usually access spring if needed by removing the bottom drawer.
Try starting the oven...open the broiler door and look to the rear of the broiler..you should see a reddish glow occurring...if not, then the igniter may have become defective...if it is a standing pilot stove then you need to make sure pilot is lit...if it won't stay lit, then the thermocouple may be defective..either way, these components are available at appliance parts store's or on the i-net
If this model has electronic ignition, you can open up the broiler door , turn on the oven, and look to the rear of the broiler...there should be a sort of glow plug getting reddish/orange. If not, the oven won't light and you will need to obtain an ignitor for the oven. these are available through appliance parts distributors such as Bell Parts Suppy. If it is a standing pilot model, then first check to see if the pilot is lit...if it's not lit try lighting...if it won't stay lit, then the thermocouple is probably bad and will need to be replaced
If you have standing pilots, make sure the pilot for the oven/broiler is lit as well. When you turn the thermostat up to call for heat, you should see the pilot get larger. That larger pilot flame heats a hydraulic sensor and opens the main burner valve.
Sounds like your ceramic ignitors have worn out - apparently they are to be replaced every 3-5 years - at least I had a similar situation and this is how it was solved. I have two ignitors in the larger oven & 1in the smaller one. Easy to replace (60$/each) - two wire and one screw each. Issue is when they fail to heat up properly the gas valve doesn't open fully, or won't open at all.
Also I'd clean the burners when in there ... mine corroded a bit and required brass wire brushing. There is a small **** on the burner that had filled in (width of a piece of paper) which prevented the flame from moving to the opposite side of the burner - so essentially only one side of the burner lit.
If memory serves me,there are a couple of screws on oven floor.Remove panel.Sounds like ignitor is the culprit.It feeds back to control.It may glow and light but unless it is sending full signal,gas valve will not open fully and oven will take forever to heat.