Question about Frigidaire Washing Machines
I have replaced the door lock assembly and the main control board also i checked the wiring and cleaned out the drain tube. what is my next step and where can i find the part
Good Morning Eric, this is JK. I understand that you are receiving error E5E on your dishwasher. It appears the error code you are receiving indicates there may be a communication problem. Check the wiring between the Main Control Board and the Speed Control Board. If you find the wiring is good, you may need to replace the Main Control Board. If the problem is not corrected, consider replacing the Speed Control Board. Hope this helps!
Posted on Apr 16, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Frigidaire GLTF2940ES0
remove the bottom panel will find a tech sheet there with more specific instructions and the speed control bd is under the tub on the left hand side unplugged the unit before checking and the door lock is part of the com system turn the washer and see if the door lock light comes on try to open the door with the light on if you can that's where the problem is
Posted on Jan 16, 2008
E5E IS FOR Communication problem. THERE IS 100 %WIRE SHORTING SOMEWHERE.PLEASE CHECK OUT.
ALSO OTHER ERRORS Error code - Fault condition
E11 Fill time too long.
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell.
E14 Reed switch.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.
E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.
E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open.
E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 Control board problem.
E44 Control board problem.
E45 Control board problem.
E46 Control board problem.
E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 Motor overheating.
E56 High motor current.
E57 High current on inverter.
E58 High current on motor phase.
E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A High temperature on heat sink.
E5B High temperature on heat sink.
E5C High temperature on heat sink.
E5D Communication problem.
E5E Communication problem.
E5F Communication problem.
E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit.
E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits.
E95 Communication error.
EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 Clogged drain pump.
EF2 To much soap.
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
i fixed mine about 5 times and its always some thing diffrent.
try buyng the inexpencive parts first and leave for last the electronic control panel.
it could be that your washing a smaller amount than the recomended.
Take it to a profesional. dont do like me a DIY guy. Some times i need to take pictures when taking the monster appart and then because they are somany screws missing duct tape, rope or hangerwire becomes usefull.
All mechanics are wise guys you and me are thevictims.
Posted on Dec 02, 2009
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
I understand you have a Frigidaire GLTF2940ES2 series washer with an error code E48, correct ?
If you've decided to go the route of replacing one or the other for your diagnostic procedure, the lock assembly is cheaper...and more likely of the two in my opinion.
Not having any way of being sure until you try it or test with an ohm meter...which you stated as not having is a disadvantage though (they can be had for less than $20 too).
**If you get a meter to test...the lock on these machines are a two part device, a set of contacts to lock and a secondary contact to activate hi-speed spin, i.e.**
**Unplug the unit from the wall first...safety first**
I'd also suggest ruling out any loose wires at the control. It will require you to visually inspect the control board, thus needing to remove the top panel by way of taking out the screws at the back and sliding the panel back and up.
What to look for specifically is the wires with the green connector fastened to the board securely...I've seen a few vibrate loose thus preventing the unit from spinning, recognizing an unlocked/locked door latch i.e.
If loose, push it all the way in until it cannot be pulled out with a slight tug ( there are clasp's on the connector but I suspect sometimes they aren't secure when leaving the factory...just my suspicion )
If these things can be ruled out, then it is quite likely the door switch (95% of the time), so here's how to change/access the latch assembly...There should be a tech sheet underneath the tub assembly behind the access panel for test procedure of the switch.
**The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequentlydrenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, ASIDE FROM PUMPS BEING OBSTRUCTED.**
You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace.
As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.
1) **UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE WALL OR TURN OFF THE BREAKER.**
2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.
3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.
4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.
Here is also a helpful link of the part and a video presentation to perform the change...
Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.
Thank's again for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.
Posted on Oct 31, 2011
please see the causes with common sense, before to proceed to exchange some error parts. God bless you
Water Level Control / Pressure Switch
his is the most common reason a washer will agitate but not spin. To check this on most , with no water you should have continuity on pins 7&15. With the tub full 7&16 should have continuity. This video walks you thru checking another type of switch.
This can be the problem for the washer not spinning . Most whirlpool styles this will effect both agitate and spin but some models will still agitate but not spin.This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch.
To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem.
To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere.
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to thetransmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of the Motor Coupler.
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise theproblem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.
Posted on Sep 20, 2012
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Hello barnessursula - Typically error code E5E indicates that there is a communication problem. Base on the intensity of the issue, I suggest contacting a professional technician to accurately repair the unit. Technician will need to check the wiring between the main control board and the speed control board. Depending on the diagnoses and if the wiring is bad, it has to be corrected. However, if the wiring is good the main control board will need to be replace or if the problem is not corrected, the speed control board will need replacing.
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Hello Ivan Kelly - Typically error code E5E indicates that there is a communication problem. Base on the intensity of the issue, I suggest contacting a professional technician to accurately repair the unit. Technician will need to check the wiring between the main control board and the speed control board. If the wiring is bad, it has to be corrected. However if the wiring is good the main control board will need to be replace or if the problem is not corrected, the speed control board will need replacing.
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Hello jsw1993 - Typically error code E5E indicates that there is a communication problem. Base on the intensity of the issue, I suggest contacting a professional technician to accurately repair the unit. Technician will need to check the wiring between the main control board and the speed control board. Supposing that the wiring is bad, it has to be corrected. However if the wiring is good the main control board will need to be replace or if the problem is not corrected, the speed control board will need replacing.
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