It is plugged in and will not grind. Appears the motor may be shorted out. I am trying to disassemble to check the electrical parts but cannot remove the housing in order to check the motor. any suggestions for disassembling?
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How old is the mixer? If older, check for possible short in cord either at plug end or at mixer body. Best to disassemble and test cord with VOM meter. Often cord and break internally and show open circuit only when cord bent a an angle.
Next< i would look at the speed mixing switch, the mechanical part, not the electronic board, for defect such as dirty contacts.
If above do not work, then check motor brushes. And, only then I would suspect electronic controller.
Please psot Mixer model and serial number rfor further assistance
With small engines, ignition is magneto. Four things can cause a lack of spark: (1) Faulty plug - try a new plug; (2) Bad, shorting, or disconnected spark plug wire - check for high voltage from ignition coil; (3) Bad ignition coil - check for low voltage at the coil input wires; (4) Magneto failure - the pickup coils next to the flywheel may be shorted, loose, or disconnected, OR the magnets on the flywheel may have lost their field or come out. I would troubleshoot this problem by checking and eliminating each of these possibilities in the above order. If all of the first three check out good; I'd have a mechanic check the magneto because this requires at least partial disassembly of the motor.
Sounds as if the Fan Switch may also be faulty. Or the new fan motor is defective. Is the flame function on the electric fireplace working? If the flame function is working, than obviously the fault is either in the fan switch or the new fan motor.
If the motor has a regular receptacle type plug on the end of the cord, try plugging it directly to a wall outlet and see if it works. If you're able to do that, then the problem is in the fireplace's fan switch or in the wiring circuitry going to the fan motor. Perhaps, this is what was wrong all along and not the fan motor, itself.
If nothing is working, check the wall receptacle that the fireplace is plugged into, by plugging in an electric lamp. If the lamp won't turn on, then there's a circuit breaker tripped in your homes circuit breaker panel. Check the circuit breaker panel for a tripped breaker and with nothing plugged into the offending receptacle, reset the breaker. Plug the fireplace back into the receptacle, turn it on and see if it trips the circuit breaker. If it does, there's an electrical short some where in the fireplace. Look for burned or frayed wiring, as well as bad connections.
BGL0514 - Are you sure the grinding sound was coming from the motor, or was it more likely coming from the transmission? It appears that your mixer had a mechanical failure in the transmission box or planetary gear assembly of your mixer - one of the main gears has failed, hence the loss of power to the agitator. The inspection and troubleshooting of the transmission is a DITY capability, particularly if your mixer is out of warranty. Just be sure to have the correct Part List manual around when you start to disassemble your mixer. If you're lacking one, you can download it from the KA website. Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> Enter the 6 character model number, and then select Parts List file. You can check the page titled 'Case, Gearing & Planetary Unit, for the disassembly, troubleshooting, and reassembly of your mixer, along with all the parts. It can be messy but gratifying. Once apart you can check for any other unseemly wear and tear on the gears, etc. Here is a link to an excellent webpage for disassembling/fixing your KA Mixer: http://www.neilcrockett.com/mixer.htm Finally, with respect to your brushes that you removed, I'd suggest removing them again and making sure the contacts are facing in the right direction to contact the armature. The concave contact face should be resting completely on the armature. If you've turned it 90 degrees too much, it wont' seat properly and you'll get no 'juice' to the electric motor, so it won't start. I hope this helps - Howard, Burke, VA If this solution has helped you, please rate it. hslincoln
The easy answer to this problem is you need a new cord. Any fit all 20 to 35 foot two wire cord will work. However, you will need to take disassemble the almost the entire vacuum to test the current cord to see if it is bad. There are a lot of pieces to take off to get to the inside of the vacuum where the cord enters from the back. You could also have a bad motor.
Ok, your direct drive system is experiencing gear breakdown issues. the transmission(gearbox) is stripped and causing the grinding situation. The clutch is ruined as well. you may have some minor electrical motor trauma as well. i recommenddisassembling the unit if possible, to inspect the direct drive and transmission/clutch assembly. you should see the drive/transmission under the drum assembly.
Check thoroughly for trauma spots. replace the direct drive assembly if damage is noticed.
There should be some kind of oil leakage around the drive assembly. inspect the motor as well.
If the motor is not smoking or humming, it should be fine. More than likely, it will be the drive and transmission assembly that will need to be replaced.
THE MOTOR HAS PUSHED BACK INTO THE INTERNAL HOUSING. YOU CAN DISASSEMBLE THE HOUSING AND FORCE THE ELECTRIC MOTOR TO IT ORIGINAL SET UP BUT OVER TIME THE MOTOR WILL KEEP MOVING BACK. THE COOLING FAN WILL BEGIN TO GRIND ON THE HOUSING. THE PLASTIC, HOLDING THE MOTOR IN PLACE,WILL BREAK DOWN AND PUSH AWAY FROM THE ATTACHMENTS.
THAT GRINDING SOUND is coming from the main motor , first you have to check a CAPACITOR located near the motor , disconnect it and try START AGAIN , IF it still giving you the grinding sound check if its coming from the motor , if so youre gonna need to replace it , cause the motor come from the factory SEALED ,making it imposible for repair,hope this helps AJ