Question about Necchi 6022 Sewing Machine
How do I adjust the timing on a necchi 6022? My machine will only sew correctly with the top tension set to 9.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your machine is probably not 50 years old. I have one just like it that we purchased about 5 years ago. Necchi makes a very sturdy reliable machine. There are a couple of tricks, though. First, your bobbin thread has to turn clockwise. If it doesn't, it will either not sew, the stitch will look horrible or the thread will break. Second, threading it is pretty easy; however, I can't explain some of the parts. I would be happy to scan the diagram and e-mail it to you. E-mail: email@example.com. The tension should be set at 3 unless you are doing a ruffle or close zigzagging (machine applique). For applique, I find that I have to move it to 2. For ruffles or gathering, set it at 0 and your stitch width to 4. Another trick is to hold the top thread for the first 2 stitches. This alleviates a bobbin catch at the beginning. Other things you will want to know are in regard to the two knobs. One is pretty simple. It has a line that gradually increases in a zigzag. This knob basically adjusts the width of the zig zag. Obviously, for straight stitching, you would make sure the straight line is towards the top. The other knob determines the type of stitch you want to do. The red stitch options on top of the machine can be done with #1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 at the top; however, I usually use #1. The blue stitches are really fun! Simply decide which stich you want and make sure the corresponding number on the dial is turned towards the top. Also, it is very important that you adjust the other knob to the largest zigzag possible AND change the stitch length to 4. Don't pull on the fabric from behind the machine as you are sewing, because the machine will go forward and backwards while making many of these stitches. The green A, B, C on the dial are used for the automatic buttonhole feature. In order to use this, make sure you have the button hole foot. It looks like a long rectangular piece of plastic with measurements on it and hollow in the center. Not sure if that description makes sense. Anyway, the first step is "C." Make sure you begin with the button hole pressure foot measuring "0". Also, change your zigzag width to the desired width AND change the stitch length to less than 1. (You will notice that this area has a green line on it.) Begin stitching. You should be moving forward. When you have reached the desired length, make sure the needle is up, then turn the knob to "B" (sometimes I make my zigzag wider for this part), begin sewing. You should not go forward or backward. This step makes the bottom of the button hole. I only make 3 or 4 "B" stitches. When done, make sure the needle is up, adjust your zigzag back again if you changed it for B, and set it on "A". This will take you backwards. If you started your button hole with the foot on 0, it will automatically stop moving backwards when you reach 0 again. At this point make sure your needle is up again, then set the knob on "B" once more. If you adjusted B before, do it again. There you are! You can use twin needles on this machine. It also works well with a walking foot for quilting. Oh! To wind your bobbin (starting from the thread spool) you need to slide the thread under the little metal knob sticking out on top of the metal "?" right above the tension and then insert it into the hole in the bobbin spool. Push the bobbin to the right. This locks it into place. Next, hold the outer part of the flywheel (round wheel on right side of machine) while turning the inner wheel towards you. This will disengage the needle and allow the bobbin to wind. Now you can press on the "gas" and wa-laah. It will slow down and almost stop when it is completed. Cut your thread, slide the bobbin to the left to unlock, tighten the wheel and you're done. If you have any more questions, let me know. Hope this helps!
Posted on Oct 18, 2008
If the belts are not tight enough they will slip, they should all be fairly tight but not like a piano string if you know what I mean.
As you do not describe what the machine is doing wrong I can not really say any more at present, except make sure there is no oil on the belts and the machine has no tight spots when you turn it over by hand.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
Zero will be loose.....it is Zero tension !
Try 4 or 5 sor most purposes.
Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
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