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Usually (with oven unplugged) the burner will tilt up and is held in by a screw or 2 and has 2 wires attached (normally push on terminals). Have you read these with an ohmmeter to see if they are bad? The oven elements need the back cover removed and you will see the element connection and maybe a screw (if the screw isn't on the inside). It too should be checked for continuity before buying new ones.
What do you need to know? They are so simple. Clean out space under hot plate now and again to prevent soot build up under the flue outlet space, have chimney swept now and again..(annually depending on use) .look in flap on bottom of flue pipe should tell you if needs sweeping.
press timer (picture with bell) adn cooktime ( picture with what looks like steam above a square) buttons simultaneously while turning adjacent knob clockwise until readout registers current time. Release both buttons and clock is reset.
You will need to install a flue liner ( i know its a nuisance) to allow the products of combustion to escape as quickly and as safely as possible.
If you installed a gas appliance without a liner, due to the temperature of the flue gases (lower than solid fuel) the emissions would struggle to exit via the flue terminal.
If you install the appliance following the manufacturers instructions, you cannot go wrong. The other recommendation is get a 'Gas Safe' engineer to carry out the commssioning/testing.(house insurance void if not certified)
Depending on your local code, you will need an exhaust hood due to the byproducts of the gas burning. Some locals allow for electric ovens to go without hood. Gas units generally require a hood system with proper fire suppression equipment. You may want to check with your local fire and building inspectors.